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Steve

I have used windshield mounting urathane to make battery cable boots, about the same consistency as RTV silicone. Sets up quick and very tough.

Peter
 
Catminer said:
Steve

I have used windshield mounting urathane to make battery cable boots, about the same consistency as RTV silicone. Sets up quick and very tough.

Peter
That stuff is very tough, and expensive. Beware, it has a shelf life measured in weeks.
 
Can you just spray paint over the pink? Must be something in black that would stick...
 
Steve,
I just got a sale catalog in the mail from Micro Mark. In there they have a 2 part casting urethane that is used for making model car tires. It has a shore reading for hardness but I'm not sure what it equates to. They also have pigments that can be used to color the urethane, black, red, blue, etc. I have dabbled a little with making molds for my plastic model car stuff and it should be a piece of cake to make a spark plug boot mold.
George
 
Steve, Model Engine Builder that has an article on making spark plug boots from 90 degree auto vacuum tube connectors. They look pretty good. I'll look up the issue number if you are interested.

Chuck
 
cfellows said:
Steve, Model Engine Builder that has an article on making spark plug boots from 90 degree auto vacuum tube connectors. They look pretty good. I'll look up the issue number if you are interested.

Chuck

Absolutely interested. Thanks Chuck! Looking forward to hearing back.
 
Made a few pieces for the fuel tank. I have been in a lazy mood for some reason and wanted to do something to keep the train rolling.


Bottom Fitting

DSCN1914s.jpg



Filler neck

DSCN1916s.jpg



Gas cap. I was going to knurl the part but the tool was set to high. Gave it a go and decided I like the way it looks so it will stay this way.

DSCN1919s.jpg



DSCN1921s.jpg
 
Steve, it's Model Engine Builder, volume 1, issue 4, December 2005. And I was wrong, the boot is made from a 90 degree, PEPCO 1/4" elbow for drip irrigation systems. The metal insert is made from brass tubing.

I have also had a member of our local metal working club indicate that auto stores carry vacuum tube elbows that will work as well.

Chuck
 
cfellows said:
Steve, it's Model Engine Builder, volume 1, issue 4, December 2005. And I was wrong, the boot is made from a 90 degree, PEPCO 1/4" elbow for drip irrigation systems. The metal insert is made from brass tubing.

I have also had a member of our local metal working club indicate that auto stores carry vacuum tube elbows that will work as well.

Chuck

I have an assortment of the vacuum elbows. They are way to big for my plugs.
 
Well as if i haven't punished myself doing this project, I have decided on a stainless exhaust system. I'm actually going to do 2, the first and the last!! This stainless is a nightmare to machine and very hard on the tooling.

DSCN1923s.jpg


DSCN1926s.jpg
 
Looks like the stainless came out good. We have to drill stainless as practice material for drilling titanium...by hand. The trick is slow and steady, as it workhardens very quickly, and starts destroying drill bits with reckless abandon.

Titanium is actually far easier to drill, but too expensive for practice projects.

Looking fantastic so far, can't wait to see it finished!

-Ryan
 
I keep looking at TIG welders, and thats one of the reasons right there. Too bad Summit doesnt sell mandrel bends in 3/16. ;D
 
Steve,
Nice looking flanges. I don't know how much you have TIG welded stainless but it warps terribly. My exhausts are stainless (TIG welded) and I made a fixture to bolt everything together prior to welding. The welding went fine but when I unbolted them from the fixture, wow, did they ever spring. I rebolted 2 of the flanges back to the fixture and then heated the pipe between them and the other 2 outlets and tried to bend them back. It worked somewhat but I had to take a skim cut off of the flanges and elongate a couple of the holes. My suggestion would be to silver solder them together. With nice tight joints it wouldn't take much solder to fuse them together and it might save you a lot of grief.

302 exhuast manifold.jpg
 
gbritnell said:
My suggestion would be to silver solder them together. With nice tight joints it wouldn't take much solder to fuse them together and it might save you a lot of grief.


When I bought the soldering paste for the spark plugs I got some stainless flux. It's a liquidy stuff but supposed to do the trick. I still have a bunch of silver brazing rod.


Silvaloy
http://www.silvaloy.com/docs/Tech Sheets/wjt-td-Silvaloy 15.pdf

And Dynaflow
http://under-the-ice.com/product_info.php?products_id=83

From what I have read the silvaloy would be the better choice.
 
Hi Steve,
I read through the specs for the Silvaloy and they don't recommend it for ferrous metals because of the higher heat needed for melting.
George
 

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