Straight 6 Cylinder Engine

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I got the new timing belt I ordered and installed it today. It has the same number of teeth and they are of the same distance apart as the original belt had but it could have been 2 teeth shorter. I just moved the belt tightener over to compensate.
I had two of the original belts and I tossed them both in the garbage. I still don't know what they are for but now they won't mess with me again.

This time when I set the valve timing everything worked as it should.
View attachment 157928

I then set the ignition timing and tested for spark using this plate.
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All that worked out fine so I made up and installed the plug wires.
I also made three wire standoffs to support the longer plug wires.
View attachment 157930

Thanks for looking
Ray
Can’t be much more to do before it runs! Looks good.
Doug
 
I decided to work on the exhaust next. The local hardware store has some 5/16" inside diameter tubing with a wall thickness of 0.014 that has a gold finish and kind of looks like brass. A 3 foot piece is $7.49 so you can tell it isn't high quality stuff but I fill the pipe with a low melting point metal before bending.
This is a my bender I made a couple of years back and works just fine.
IMG_3519.JPG

All six pipes installed.
IMG_3521.JPG

I also cut, sanded, stained, and finished a piece of poplar for the base.
It should be ready for tomorrow.
IMG_3525.JPG

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
Many things came together today and the cooling system is declared complete.

This is the cooling water header tank.
IMG_3532.JPG

Installed the radiator and fan.
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I hooked up the hoses and added some antifreeze.
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Would you believe it there were no leaks.
The pump moves a good stream of water even at 600 rpms so we will see how it does keeping the engine cool.
The radiator fan is powered by a wall wart.

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
I attached a brass weight to the carb throttle arm so it would stay in the idle position. I added a brass bit to the idle adjustment screw so you could adjust it with your fingers. This is the same setup I used on the 4 cylinder model and it worked very well.
IMG_3542.JPG

Sorry I only got a picture of the assembled gas tank. It is about twice the capacity of the tank on the 4 cylinder.
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Getting very close now just the electronics left.

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
Many things came together today and the cooling system is declared complete.

This is the cooling water header tank.
View attachment 158081

Installed the radiator and fan.
View attachment 158082

I hooked up the hoses and added some antifreeze.
View attachment 158083

Would you believe it there were no leaks.
The pump moves a good stream of water even at 600 rpms so we will see how it does keeping the engine cool.
The radiator fan is powered by a wall wart.

Thanks for looking
Ray
Very impressed with the project, and very fast.. 👍👍👍
 
Thank you Minh

This is a piece of poplar that I am cutting out for the electronics box on the big router.
IMG_3546.JPG

Sanded, stained, and finished with spray poly.
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Here it is mounted to the board with an aluminum cover and a off/on switch.
IMG_3555.JPG

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
Yes it does run but there are some issues that I want to iron out first before the video.

The cooling system is working better than I expected except for the radiator fan. It is really wimpy so I have another fan on order.

Number 5 cylinder is not contributing anything it is just along for the ride. I may have to pull the head to see whats wrong.

The distributor drive gear is slipping on the cam shaft. I thought it was a tight enough fit and didn't need a set screw. Boy was I wrong.

The hall sensor was giving me a fit. Even though it is the same that I used on both of my 4 cylinder engines it would not work on this engine. The engine would start up and run for maybe 5 seconds and then the sensor was toast. I tries several different sensors and none worked for more than a couple of minutes. My friend had purchased the same number sensor but it was a Honeywell brand. That did the trick so far as we ran three tanks of gas through it today.

It may take a few days to get it all sorted but there will be a video.

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
I pulled the head today to see what was wrong with number 5 cylinder. I mounted the head on the valve test plate and applied 60 pounds of shop air. I expected that the exhaust valve was the culprit and needed some more lapping. But there were no leaks from either valve they were good. I checked for suction on number 5 cylinder and that was good also. After close inspection I noticed that the intake valve springs on number 5 and 6 cylinders were different from the rest. I had trouble finding the intake springs and had went to several hardware stores to purchase them. These two springs were much too stiff so I rummaged through all my junk drawers and found two that would work.
As long as I had the head off I made a new head gasket from the same material that I had used on many of my other models but not originally on this model. The suction on number 6 cylinder was not that great so I removed the piston and rod and replaced the o-ring on that cylinder.

The hall sensor is doing fine.

Well here it is.


There is still some tuning to do and I realized that I had never adjusted the ignition timing as it is till on TDC.

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
Fantastic ! A couple questions, what is the fuel? What do you use for head gasket material?
 
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