Wallaby

[krv3000]

HI as one with a new engine I will post when dun keep up the good work

 

[metalmad]

I found an old bit of timber for the Base that may be OK after a few coats of varnish
Its nice and heavy too so it should not jump around too much.
Pete

 

[Blogwitch]

Pete,

The engine really is looking very good.

I see you have made your new pipes, did that little bender do the job, or did you have to use something a bit more robust?

Your on the downwards slope now, so don't go doing anything silly.


John

 

[metalmad]

Hi John
I did have to modify the "Torus" bender a little as the Stainless pipe was very hard to bend,
All I ended up doing was welding on a threaded adjuster to stop the roller sliding back and Im thinking of one day adding ball bearings to the rollers but I doubt that will make much difference on the oil pipes I need to bend next.
I have not hard soldered up the rear pipe yet but guess I will soon, I have tried so many different rear pipes its not funny and I like most of em, It really is a pity I can only use one.
Pete
PS
IT may still end up a paperweight Mate, there is still a lot to do, but with just a little luck it will be OK.

 

[steamer]

You can do it Pete!.....1 bite at a time...think about what your doing!

Dave

 

[metalmad]

Hi Dave
I want to try and get some form of engine mounting brackets done this weekend before this thing is knocked over and my new plugs broken.
Looking at this photo I recon I will replace the inner nuts on the plugs with a brass washer, that will look heaps better 8)
Pete

 

[bezalel2000]

Looking real good Pete

ther'll be a blue tint on them pipes real soon - we're waiting stickpoke

Bez

P.S. I hope you've got Bogs permission to supplement your photos with his mugshot :hDe:

 

[metalmad]

Hi Bez
I reckon she would be easier to start if I had some pistons :big:
Pete

 

[bezalel2000]

ouch!


;D

 

[steamer]

Hey Guys,

What's the plan for the oil pump gears? 10teeth is below the #8 cutter range for 20 and 14 1/2 pressure angles.

I suppose we could substitute 12 tooth, and make the gears a smidge narrower?

At 32 DP, the gears have a 5/16" diameter pitch circle.

The OD would be (10 + 2) /32 = 12/32 = 0.375"

With 12 teeth, we get a 12/32 or 0.375" Pitch diameter and a 14/32 or 0.4375" OD

It looks like you can get those two gears into the same 7/8" diameter body, but we would need to move the cover plate holes out a bit to clear.

As the gear now has 12/10 or 1.2 times the volume with the larger gear, we would have to make it narrower to reduce the total flow rate back to design by 10/12 or 0.833 x .25 = 0.208" wide.

Does this make sense or am I all wet?...or do you guys have a way to make 10 tooths that your holding out on me on? ;D

Dave

 

[steamer]

NOPE...I take that back...you will need to make the housing bigger to get the bigger gears in...

Dave

 

[metalmad]

Hi Dave
I don't know that making the pump housing bigger is such a good idea mate, Remember u will need clearance for the points housing that rotates on the center flange.
I have already drilled my housing anyway.
All it needs is the back to be machined to suit the hole in the gear hub.
I'm considering a disk shaped points holder with a simple pressed in handle but I will have to buy the points first, I think I would prefer using an off the shelf set of points for easy replacement.
Pete

 

[GailInNM]

Dave,
You can get pinion wire in 10T 32 DP from SDP-SI. $19 to $25 for a foot depending on flavor.

https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Direct.asp?GroupID=438

As I recall there is also a European version of the same store.

A foot would make a whole bunch of gears so you could share.

Gail In NM

 

[steamer]

YUP.....Was just going to report back the same information Gail.... oh:



Thanks....

Dave

 

[metalmad]

That is so cheap
The price for a 300 mm bar is $55 bucks here
but for a single brass spur gear ready to use is $13.95
looking at the specks both width and hole size are correct
so I guess the easy path would be to buy em ready made.
I hit copy on my short cut to the listing but im not showing a paste option now ???
god I hate computers :big:
Pete

 

[steamer]

To be honest, as long as the materials are correct, you can't make a gear that cheap!.....the cutters are too expensive!.....though I suppose I could make a "hob" and cut all of them with it.....

Would be cheaper to just get the bar.......... :big:

Dave

 

[metalmad]

I thought so too Dave for a ready to use brass gear.
They just need the shaft pressed in, but im having a bit of a slow period at the moment, only doing things that dont need much work like the stand etc.
That way at least some progress is been made while im not feeling that well.
Pete


http://www.hobbyparts.com.au/store/partslist/gearsspur32pitch20degree/gearsandgearing/wide/1/

 

[steamer]

I'll buy the pump gears, but I'll make the rest of the gears ....with my son...as a teaching excercise....that's my story and I'm stickin to it! :big:

Pete, are you going to put a water pump on yours?

Dave

 

[metalmad]

The Wallaby articles do not include a water pump and to be honest, i haven't even thought about it much. If it gets too hot I guess a waterpump and radiator are called for. I was just planing on a large water drum but we will see I guess.
I have been able to get part of the Sealion article off the internet and it does include the waterpump, but I'm not sure how id run it, Maybe a remote pump driven of the power take off on the end of the cam or somethink?
I have seen it driven by a belt from the flywheel but if you want to include a clutch then that's out, so I guess an electric pump has to be at least consided, maybe hidden in the base etc.
Pete

 

[steamer]

I was thinking of the back end of the camshaft. It's mentioned in passing in articles.

Probably a gear one.

Dave