Wallaby

[bezalel2000]

Thm:


I like that Pete.

Bez

 

[steamer]

I like it too!

Dave

 

[vcutajar]

It's a good arrangement. Could you do it in brass or bronze to match the other inlet and outlet fittings?

Vince

 

[steamer]

ya know thinking about it, do we need to worry about grounding out the spart plugs?

Dave

 

[metalmad]

Thanks Dave and Bez
I'm pretty happy with it now and if I can get some black machinable plastic tomorrow I hope to move on to the distributor, once the electrics are done its all down hill from there ;D
Hi Vince
I did think about brass for the top fitting but felt it was too overpowering visually.
You may notice I made the brass inlet on the bottom much smaller then the exhaust fittings.
This was done to avoid the risk of the Engine becoming gaudy, I have even been thinking of remaking the inlet out of Alli as the combined breather/dipstick next to it is not only brass but also visually powerful due to decoration, design and central location.
I did try brass pipe for the water fittings but felt continuing with the Stainless pipe accents held the design together a little better.
Pete

 

[metalmad]

ummmmmmmmmm Dave
I had not thought about the Stainless splug reducers not allowing the plugs to ground.
I know Stainless is not magnetic but have no idea if its a conductor or not
u got me worried now buddy
Pete

 

[vcutajar]

Pete

Stainless steel conducts electricity. You should not have a problem.

Vince

p.s. There are stainless steel spark plugs
http://www.sparkplugs.com/sparkplug411.asp?kw=Champion+Stainless+Steel+Marine&mfid=0

 

[metalmad]

Thanks Vince, Dave had me worried there, but thinking about it he probably meant shorting the plugs with the water fitting and I don't think that will be a problem
Pete

 

[gbritnell]

Boy it's sure coming along nicely Pete. I do like the revised head fitting. Somehow it looks like it was made for the engine.
gbritnell

 

[vcutajar]

Yes, most probably that is what Dave meant. You can always use rubber plugs/covers like they use on cars.

Vince

 

[metalmad]

Thanks George ;D

 

[metalmad]

I got out the Tadometer Vince and it must be nearly 3/4 of an inch clearance and will be covered by a rubber pipe to boot.
If it jumps that gap nothing will stop it :big:
Pete

 

[steamer]

Yes, most probably that is what Dave meant. You can always use rubber plugs/covers like they use on cars.

Vince

Yea that's where I was headed....as long as there is clearance...we're good.

The other head fitting that I liked was the one shown in the articles facing forward with bolt thru the center..

I'm torn...this way is far easier to make.

Dave

 

[bezalel2000]

Hi Pete

Just on spark gaps ,

If we briefly ignore some of the variables that affect it like humidity, frequency temperature, a rough approximate value for High tension ionisation of air (spark in an air gap) is about 10,000 volts per inch. Once that's happened the air can carry huge currents, Just as if you have welded a crow bar to each end.

So if you use a car coil that delivers 20,000 volts, your 3/4" gap is looking to arc over - a lower primary voltage or some really good Spark plug boots are likely to be a must have.

I would think that if this is a problem in multi cylinder small engines, it would have been solved by a few that have gone before.

Any one?

Bez

 

[metalmad]

Hi Guys
Once ive got her running ill turn off the lights and see if I have a problem 8)

 

[metalmad]

I scored some machinable plastic today for the distributor from a local member, "Ausdier" who came over for a coffee yesterday.
The guys a legend and sorted a problem Ive been having with the new mill ;D
The last owner removed the head locks and just tightend up the jibs ???
and Ive been wondering why i could not hold a dim in z ever since.
To be fair to the guy I got the mill off, he did give me the locks in a plastic bag, but told me they were "spares" when I asked what they were LOL.
I knew no better, so its lucky i kept them ;D
Today i had a play with the plastic, in the first pic I was going to machine the internals from the round but changed my mind, faced off and cut out the rough shape in my improvised upright band saw.
It seems there are inserts for plastic -Who knew :big:
I like it .
Pete

 

[Blogwitch]

Pete,

That material looks very much like UPVC.

I use it for constructing things, like small machines etc, as it has virtually no wearing properties.

It can be bolted together fairly easily, especially if the holes are helicoiled first, but nothing seems to touch it solvent wise. Normally it is welded with a special plastic welding gun with filler rods to make things like water or chemical tanks, as it seem to be impervious to most chemicals.

I have a few sheets in my garden storage, salvaged from a broken chemical tank. As I said, I used it for mechanical building of things.


John

 

[metalmad]

Hi John
That is good news!
petrol seems to make a mess of so many things, so I'm real glad to hear my distributor is not going to melt on me.
I try to keep painting to the barest minimum for the same reason as the finish on my first engine, "The Webster" was destroyed by the fuel.
I was amazed at the finish with the Tip I tried out today, I sweated blood getting a half decent finish on the rotor button but today it was just so easy
Pete

 

[ausdier]

Glad I could help Pete.
It looks like that tip is doing the trick.

PS it took a little while to wipe up all the drool after you left today. :big:

 

[metalmad]

Hi Darren
Sorry I made a mess Buddy
When I see something I like, I sorta lose control :big: :big:
Pete