Briggs & Stratton 6S - A Beginnig

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I think the last item on the crankcase has been done now and that was to finish rounding and blending in the radiused contours from each side of the lower cylunder arounf to the front. That setup is shown in photo 1 below and the results in photo 2. After that all of the machined surfaces I didn't want to be bead blased were masked off as shown in photos 3 & 4 and then a thorough bead blasting of the rest of the outer crankcase. Its not perfect by any means but from a foot or more away most of the minor imperfections tend to disappear.

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After bead blasting the finished (I hope) crankcase appears as shown in the following four photos. Then a good dunking in some mineral spirits to brush off any residual fine blast media and it should be about ready to start assembly.



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:bow: :bow: :bow:
That looks great to me. I pulled apart a 30? year old full size version of this engine and was amazed to see that the crank and cam had no bearings or bushes, just ran in aluminium. No wear at all just a severely scored bored and piston. I wonder what type of alloy they used? I do know it is going in the furnace one day.

Brock
 
Ive never seen a brigs look this good :big:
Top Job Pete
 
Thanks Shed, Steve, Dean and Pete. There are a few belmiishes here and there but most will be covered up by other things...carb, gas tank, shroud, etc. Mostly now its a matter of finishing up on a few things...like drilling holes through the piston and oil ring, adding a linkage piece to the carb butterfly valve, and then making sure thing just fit with clearance to run. I noticed yesterday that the connecting rod wasn't clearing the center of the camshaft but it turns out that I inadvertently forgot to thin that diameter from .350 down to the .310 called for. I still have to round out the cam lobes too but all of this is the more fun minor stuff. Once these things are done I can fit it all up with gaskets, check compression and work on connecting the ignition system.

A quick question to any of you IC guys...what weight of oil should be used in these scale size engines. This one just has a splash type system within the lower crankcase, and basically the little finger on the bottom of the connecting rod is what splashes it about on each revolution.

Bill
 
Hi Bill,
I use a straight weight 30 in my engines, both splash and pressure although a synthetic might be better, the same as it is in a full sized engine.
I don't think it's really critical. Remember it's not like we have to go out in the snow and cold to start them up. :big:
gbritnell
 
I'm with metalmad! Needs some Briggs black paint and a whole bunch of dried grass clippings! ;D

just kidding Bill...


That is a work of art Bill! Man I am so honored you have taken us along for this ride....can't wait for the first run! :bow:

Dave
 
Thanks for the info George. And Dave thanks for the kind words. After the lengthy and frustrating haitus on this project, I am ready to press on to the end now and hope to get a lot done over the Christmas break. Keep your fingers crossed that it will run !!!

Bill
 
Bill

I'm happy to add my congratulations on the progress to date, I've been following along all the way
and have been enjoying it. Dave (Steamer) is right, it really won't look like a Briggs until
it's all gummed up with old oil and dead grass :D (at least, it would look like mine)

Great work, looking forward to the first run.

Cheers, Joe
 
b.lindsey said:
Thanks for the info George. And Dave thanks for the kind words. After the lengthy and frustrating hiatus on this project, I am ready to press on to the end now and hope to get a lot done over the Christmas break. Keep your fingers crossed that it will run !!!

Bill

It is a forgone conclusion that sometime in the very near future we all will have a bouncing baby Briggs as a nephew!....he looks like a boy anyway ;D
I have complete faith!

Dave
 
Though it doesn't look like a lot of progress, I spent all morning fitting the various inner workings together, checking fits and clearances, etc. As shown in the first photo below there isn't much room when teh connecting rod passes by the cam shaft but a bit of minor modifications and everything clears now, and I am happy with the minimal end play of the crankshaft as well. Hopefully this afternoon and tomorrow I can get the valve train installed and double check timing. and the valve action and such. Another 4-5 hours closer at least.



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Assembly has finally begun with a good full day in the shop today and another hopefully tomorrow. There are still a few little bits to make or add here and there but the basic frame is iready to start adding parts to. Picture 1 shows the bushings extenfing slightly down into the crankcase to guide the motion of the tappets. Picture 2 the pin for what would be a lever start affixed into the crankcase, pictures 3 & 4 show a backtracking item done today adding the 8 #60 holes through the oil ring and into the wrist pin cavity for lubrication.

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The next three pictures show the valves, spring, keepers and pins installed in what is a rather small space for my somewhat pudgy fingers. The cavity measures 1.25" wide x .625: high and the springs needed to be almost fully compressed in order to slip the pins into the valve stems to hold the keepers. Pictures 2 & 3 show the crankcase witrh the valves installed along with the piston and after checking for the correct opening and closing of the valves relative to the pistons position. More to follow later tonight or in the morning.



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Looks like the engine off my Mini-bike some 35 years ago,,,, :big:


After It got burned up and just as I rebuilt it....... :big:


Dave
 
Darn, that thing is sweet, Bill.
gbritnell
 
ooooo i cud juts look at the piston all day never mind the engine :bow: :bow: :bow:
 
Haven't checked in for some time, but looks super impressive as always Bill

Steve
 
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