Wallaby

[steamer]

I think I have that cutter Pete. Let me know...I haven't given my little mill a workout in a while
Dave

 

[metalmad]

Thanks Dave, I really do appreciate the offer, but would rather buy the pump gears than risk stepping on Tels toes :big:
He made the timing gears for the "Sows ear" and they are still going strong ;D
I got a little bit more done on the pump today, milling off the chucking piece on the main housing and boring both inner and outer end caps using a 1/8 two flute end mill.
After that I drilled the holes for the 8 BA screws.

 

[metalmad]

I put the Carby up in the 4 jaw and got a little bit carried away :big:
might be a little too artsy fartsy for the rest of the Wallaby.
But then again once the air cleaner, throttle and mixture needle/jet Assembly are all on, it may look OK.
Pete

 

[tel]

Yep, already figured that the pump was driven from somewhere off the other cluster - no worries with the timing gears and big pump gear - they can all be 40dp and come out with the same dimensions (other than tooth size) as the called for 32's.

So, just to clarify, you need 2 x 50t & 2 x25t? I'm all over it like Oprah on a baked ham!

 

[metalmad]

Well I better get my arse into "gear" then I recon :big:
Pete

 

[steamer]

Pete, no worries mate...and I wouldn't want to step on Tel's toes either....might find a drop bear on my porch or something.... ;D


Dave

 

[Blogwitch]

Pete,

I don't think you need to worry about the carb too much. These early Westbury types of engine would run on a bit of pipe stuck in the side and a drip feed into the end of it.

They are very forgiving engines indeed, not like the higher compression ratio engines of later. My side valve, which I still have, will start quite merrily on almost any setting you want to give it, then it it a very easy matter to tune it for optimum running.


John

 

[tel]

Pete, no worries mate...and I wouldn't want to step on Tel's toes either....might find a drop bear on my porch or something.... Grin

A transgression like that would get a full wombat - never mind the drop b'ar.

These look something like 'em Pete? I've left the pinions on the stick - make it a bit easier for final machining - the stick is drilled and reamed to 5/16" for a depth of about 1 1/4 so you should be able to hack 'em off alright.

 

[steamer]

A transgression like that would get a full wombat - never mind the drop b'ar.


Sir! Yes Sir!

 

[metalmad]

Hi Bogs
I'm really hoping for a nice runner and the way things are going I guess it wont be that long before we find out :big:
My next Engine "The Mastiff" is a side valve so that will be interesting!
Hi Tel
Those gears are fantastic Mate :bow:
I'm having problems getting the silly grin of my face ;D
This Build just took a huge step forward and by the look of those pinions, a bulletproof one :big:
Knowing Tel was on the job with the gears, I got stuck in myself and machined up the chucking piece of the Carby into an adaptor to suit the intake.
I then made up a plug for the threw hole and locktighted it in.
After that I started in on the intake manifold, using a center drill to make a radius on the end to suit the curved ports.
I may not have left enough thread for a locking ring, but I'm wondering now if I really need it as the manifold locks up to a ledge on the inside.
Dave it really is not wise to underestimate the Australian Wombat!! :big:
Pete

 

[tel]

The 50t's are CI, the pinions steel - shouldn't wear out in a hurry.

 

[metalmad]

Did a little bit more on the intake manifold today and did a trial fit up but I will probably modify it once the engine is running.
The oil pump in the pic is just sitting there for show at the moment
Pete

 

[ShedBoy]

Nice looking Pete :bow: :bow: :bow:

Brock

 

[metalmad]

Thanks Brock
It still has lots to go but I think as I start to hang bits on it it should really start to take shape from now on.
after playing with the manifold I did a bit more work on the rockers, drilling the pushrod holes and using my 1/8 burr to round it off.
The rockers only need the oil holes and a little wet and dry rub down and they are done.
Pete

 

[vcutajar]

Pete

It's looking good. Can't wait to see it running.

Just out of curiosity, did you give the the holes for the pushrods in the rocker arms a slight taper or did you leave them straight?

Vince

 

[metalmad]

Hi Vince
I hope I did not miss something here, My understanding of the text was a simple drill hole with a 1/8 drill to a depth of 1/8 and then using the 1/8 round burr to finish to a nice round shape.
The hole is just round!
What did you end up doing?
Pete
PS
I just reread the relevent section and no mention is made for the wallaby of drilling at an angle and the diagram shows a straight line.
The Kiwi may well be another matter.

 

[vcutajar]

Pete

No worries.

I was assuming that the Wallaby rockers and Kiwi rockers were similar. At least they look similar. Although in the Kiwi documentation there is no mention of a taper, in the diagrams there is a taper shown. Most probably because the pushrods come in at a slight angle. I did not do a taper but made the hole slighty wider.

From what I can see in the Wallaby, the pushrods come in straight, so most probably a taper is not required.

Vince

p.s. I just reread the Kiwi documentation and at one time it mentions giving the hole a slight taper, but as I said it must be due to the pushrods in the Kiwi coming in at an angle.

 

[bezalel2000]

Hi Pete

That's looking real Sweet

I think we are all keen to hear her runn'n


Bez

 

[steamer]

Hi Pete

That's looking real Sweet

I think we are all keen to hear her runn'n


Bez

YUP!

 

[metalmad]

Hi Guys
Im working onit :big: