IMHO this mating process is not required where rings are used. The piston and cylinder are not in contact, only the rings and cylinder, (a much smaller surface area). The rings are compressed to fit the cylinder and have a specified clearance across the ring gap when compressed into the cylinder via the ring grooves in the piston. This in turn exerts pressure between the ring and cylinder which for a model SI or steam engine should be around 6 to 8 psi and for a CI around 12 to 18 psi, providing the necessary seal for compression and preventing blowby into the crankcase.
As an aside I did some research into piston ring tribology and when I compared this to an 1890 fitting and machining book the difference in the results from the boffin formula in the tribology to offset by X/64" in the old machinists book was infinitesimal. Our ancestors new more than we sometimes give them credit for.
For a good result piston rings should be made from spun cast iron, irrespective of cold formed or heat treated.
Hope this explains a little more about a very fascinating aspect of pistons and cylinders. Many thanks to Mr Ramsbottom and Mr Lanchester pioneers who ran rings around their contemporaries. :
RR,
As you saw in my WIP post, I made some mistakes too. What helps is having more stock sized and ready to go! With the lessons I learned from the first I should have netter luck next time around.
Sorry to hear about your misfortune and look forward to seeing this little beast run!
RR17,
I am making 4!
I started on a second crankcase and was side milling for the mounting tabs. As i kept feeding the mill in I noticed the mounting tab getting lower and lower...
Owch that sucks but at least you wont have that happening again on your third.
I look at it this way if you make a mistake, and then remake it but make a different mistake than last time, you've made progress.
And eventual you will finish it but with loads of lessons learnt in the progress.
Do you all your machineing at home, cause at the moment i do all mine at work when i have spare time.
Any machines you would recommend for me to buy. Also at work we have DRO ( digital read out) which i have always used . i no most machines out there dont have them is it hard to get as accurate without it or am i just being stupid.
RR17,
All my stuff is at home. I lucked into an older 13x40 lathe and I have a 6x26 grizzly mini bridgeport.
As I am biased I would recommend the bigger stuff as even on the 6x26 heavy cuts are out!
Without a DRO you will do a lot of measuring. They make it easier and you won't get bit with backlash issues. On the other hand, $600 and up will buy a lot of material/tooling! ;D
I have more time on my hands then money (read none of either) but I believe that when I am good enough at measuring I will look into the DRO as a way to go beyond where I am at now. My learning curve is so steep I need to get speeds and feeds down so I am not buying endmills all the time :big:
Here is my stuff from the "show us your lathe thread":
Seanol said:
Here is my lathe and mill:
Still learning not to make scrap and making slow headway but loving every minute of it!
A questions for you guys out there is it nesscary to lap the main bearing and the crankshaft together. Or can i get away with a good finish and nice fit?