Suggestions for First I.C. Engine

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Just one salutary lesson, from a clockmaker who built 9 cylinder radials, etc.
He regretted not dong more to improve longevity of his engines, as after just a dozen demo runs, they would lose compression and never run again... He felt that although they were beautiful ornaments, they were "failures" in that they needed new pistons, rings, bores, valves and seats after very short lifetimes. - Just a few 5 minute runs! I have an ICE marine diesel (for a boat) that never made it into the boat because it ran once, then lost compression. New piston, new head for Glow instead of compression ignition, and that ran once before it lost compression. Tolerances were too fine for the Running-in to still have a usable engine. Despite surfaces being polished and carefully handled, etc.
I later found out from a shop that he sold aero engines that had short lives, but he sold replacement pistons and cylinders, so the users could re-build the engines and get more flights ... Typically 10 flights wore the engine out!
But "buying" cylinders and pistons - or even making replacements - is not on my agenda. I'll stick to durable designs, so I can continue to dust-off an old engine from the "shelf of boxes", to demonstrate at the next show...
K2
 
I guess I should clarify what I meant by longevity, Steamchick. I appreciate the example you provided. It gives me a basis upon which to attempt to clarify. Yes, I would want an engine that will run well after many uses, unlike the engine in the example you provided.
 

Danuzzo & WEC4​

This engine will run (River Queen Open Column Launch Engine) My first time at casting.
I have seen it run at cabin fever model expo about 10 years ago. Can you explain to me how you layout and machine the rotary valve. I even went as far as trying to machine it on a indexing head. It would try to run but still no joy.
River Queen Open Column Launch Engine.jpgHere is a pic. of my none working engine version
 
Am I missing something as the River Queen looks to be a steam/air engine and OP wants an IC engine.
 
Jason, I think you are right , but nice to see someone else's first model. And he is proud to show he made an engine that works.
For my part, I have made many steam engines successfully, but not (yet) an IC or EC engine that worked for more than 1 or 2 runs, so for us mere mortals we enjoy anything that works.
And dream of developing the capabilities of all you experts that manage it repeatedly.
I know how I should "do it", but somehow, it never works out as well as it needs to be... But I keep trying.
K2
 
Well, I have decided on the Webster. But, I have a questions on the ignition systems. Can someone please explain to me what I need for the ignition system and the sources for the parts? Thank you all for participating in this thread.
 
Well, I have decided on the Webster. But, I have a questions on the ignition systems. Can someone please explain to me what I need for the ignition system and the sources for the parts? Thank you all for participating in this thread.
For my Webster engine I use a CDI module by RxCell. It was an ebay buy.

Cheers,
Andrew in Melbourne
 
Looks like the ignition systems are a little pricey. Are there much less expensive systems available?
 
Looks like the ignition systems are a little pricey. Are there much less expensive systems available?
You can build your own. What you need is an ignition coil (almost any will do) a hall effect sensor module, a magnet, a battery, a suitable power transistor (a MOSFET or IGBT) and some resistors. Basically the hall effect sensor output would be used to control the gate of the power transistor, which in turn drives the coil. When the magnet gets close to the hall effect it triggers it, causing the transistor to conduct current through the primary winding. Then when the magnet goes past the sensor the trigger signal stops, the transistor stops conducting and the magnetic field in the coil collapses, giving you your spark.
 
I use the S/S ignitions same as Sid suggested and have done for about 15years. I don't use them with a hall sensor, just simple two wires and contacts that make the circuit when they touch. This setup looks more scale than using ignition points and can be setup in many places on the engine not just the rotating crankshaft.
 
I guess my biggest issue is that electronic part is foreign to me. Yes, I have changed points and condenser on my first vehicle (1975 VW Super Beetle), and adjusted timing, but, I never developed an understanding of how it all works. I guess if I see the systems on You Tube, and how they are interrelate, I will get it figured out eventually.

Nevertheless, thank you all for the suggestions. I will probably start another thread or 2 as I proceed with the build asking questions. Hopefully, by the time I get to the ignition part, I will be a little more educated on the subject so I can ask more specific questions.
 

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