Small V8

[stevehuckss396]

No reason the core/s couldn't be porous.

I was going to turn the core and polish it smooth so the material will release after it sets up.

 

[jpeter]

Steve and I have talked about different types of RTV but I said I didn't want to spend the money on the 2-part mix cuz I'd use just a little and the rest would spoil. I tried to cast hardware store gasket RTV but I couldn't get it to harden in the mold. Lots of suppliers, Micro-Mart for one, sell 2 part casting RTV that I think would be perfect for casting boots. I was hoping someone would buy some to try and report on the results. I'd do it but I'm too cheap to buy it. I've got the boot mold machined and ready to go for 1/4 - 32 plugs.

 

[HPME]

Steve, How about Plasti Dip for your plug boots?
I believe there was an article in Strictly IC about using Plasti Dip for spark plug boots, however I don't remember the issue.
Daryl

 

[stevehuckss396]

Steve and I have talked about different types of RTV but I said I didn't want to spend the money on the 2-part mix cuz I'd use just a little and the rest would spoil. I tried to cast hardware store gasket RTV but I couldn't get it to harden in the mold. Lots of suppliers, Micro-Mart for one, sell 2 part casting RTV that I think would be perfect for casting boots. I was hoping someone would buy some to try and report on the results. I'd do it but I'm too cheap to buy it. I've got the boot mold machined and ready to go for 1/4 - 32 plugs.

You don't need a boot mold for the 1/4-32 plugs. I just get the Dorman vacuum fittings and shorten them up. They work great but they don't make them any smaller.

Are you coming to the meeting Wednesday? If so bring the mold. I would like to see it.

 

[stevehuckss396]

Steve, How about Plasti Dip for your plug boots?
I believe there was an article in Strictly IC about using Plasti Dip for spark plug boots, however I don't remember the issue.
Daryl

I have the entire run. I will look it up in the index!

Thanks

 

[jpeter]

You don't need a boot mold for the 1/4-32 plugs. I just get the Dorman vacuum fittings and shorten them up. They work great but they don't make them any smaller.

Are you coming to the meeting Wednesday? If so bring the mold. I would like to see it.

Wed. might be tough. The local church has a big doings going on Wednesday. We'll see.

 

[stevehuckss396]

Heads were final torqued as well as the manifold. The last gasket was installed on the bell housing adapter and the rear section was assembled. All the rockers have been adjusted and snugged up.

 

[awJCKDup]

i gotta see the torque wrench you used----is it a beam type ? What was the head torque?

 

[stevehuckss396]

i gotta see the torque wrench you used----is it a beam type ? What was the head torque?

It was an allen type
The torque spec was "Good and snug"

All kidding aside i do torque from center working my way to the ends and the heads I tighten in 3 steps. First pass is just to set the head on the part, then snug, then good and snug. Old habit.

 

[kcmillin]

Sounds Like Your getting close. How are the headers coming along?

I was doing more experimenting with the liquid tape. I figured you might be interested. I took some pictures this time. I did not put anything on the "molds", just lathered some goop on.

Here is a Penny With Three coats. It came off real easy, and is some tough stuff.

Here is a scrap distributor I put 5 coats on.

And here it is separated from the mold. If you look close you can see that the inside if the distributor is partially there too.

For less than $5, I am amazed with this stuff.

Kel

 

[stevehuckss396]

Thanks Kel!

I am going to get some for sure.

I went to Ron's house Saturday and made all the first bends for all the pipes. Couldn't get close enough to the first bend with the second so he wanted to modify the clamp. I would imagine we will be back in biz Monday or Tuesday.

Ron wanted to make the bender because he might make custom stainless exhaust pipes for people who build the Little Demon. I figured we could make my pipes with it to test out his bender.

There is another Ron in my club who might make 8-40 spark plugs for sale. I e-mailed Dale Detrich to see if he wanted to make them but no reply.

 

[Mosey]

What are your plans for a mount for the engine? I've seen some great engine designs set on old lamp parts for mounts. How about a gallery of engine mounts?
I would love to see that V8 on a pair of Chevy frame rails.

 

[stevehuckss396]

What are your plans for a mount for the engine? I've seen some great engine designs set on old lamp parts for mounts. How about a gallery of engine mounts?
I would love to see that V8 on a pair of Chevy frame rails.

If you go back to post #983 there is a picture of the engine, radiator, and fuel tank mounted. I dont know about a chevy frame but i have kicked around the idea of a ford frame. That's why i'm making T-bucket style headers.

 

[Mosey]

Those steam guys really make wonderful frames for their locos, and Ford is just fine. Give it some thought, as I think the engine would rock on a ladder frame. A chance for you to go even higher.

 

[GailInNM]

Steve,
In a past life I designed a few simple transfer molds. This afternoon I built a transfer mold to match my small spark plug. Material is Quick-Sil silicon putty. This is probably the same stuff that Ian suggested.
http://www.michaels.com/EasyMold-Si...=products-generalcrafts-basicsupplies&start=1

I have used it for 5 or more years for small molds and other purposes. I is available from many jewelery makers suppliers in packages from 3 ounces up and Micro-Mark carries in 1 pound kits as RTV Silicone Mold Putty.
The photos show the natural color, but I have colored it black with no adverse electrical or physical effects using colorant for epoxy and polyurethane resins.

I should have put the plug wire higher, but it looked ok on the drawing. I can start a new thread on making the mold and molding so as to not dilute your thread. Cycle time on the mold is about 10 to 15 minutes to mold and for the material to set up enough to demold.

Gail in NM

 

[stevehuckss396]

I can start a new thread on making the mold and molding so as to not dilute your thread. Cycle time on the mold is about 10 to 15 minutes to mold and for the material to set up enough to demold.

Mr. Graham I would be extremely interested in seeing how you do your boots. Making the mold seems to be the mystical part of the whole process. If you would write it up in a seperate thread in as much detail as you can, I'm sure it would be appreciated by a lot more than just me.

 

[cyclerider57]

I have a two part rubber that I use for carbon fibre molds. It is a slight grey color but I would imagine that adding a pigment to it that I could get it to turn black. I'll get you some more information once I get back from Wisconsin but one of you is more than welcome to have some for a test sample.
-Jordan

 

[stevehuckss396]

Thanks for the offer. I might just take you up on it.

 

[ironman]

Steve, I have used Smooth-On products to make molds and parts for my HO scale cars. Windshield Frames, Drivers, Exhaust pipes, Car and Truck Bodies. They might have something you can use. Here is their website.

http://www.smooth-on.com/

ironman (Ray)

 

[GailInNM]

I just got started on the how to for my method of molding boots at:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=15354.0

It will probably take a day or two to get the whole thing written.

Gail in NM