Lakc
Well-Known Member
That spur gear stock sure comes in handy, looks great.
Small V8
- Thread starter stevehuckss396
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Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
jpeter said:
The water pump on the Peewee is a gear pump and it moves tons of water.
Lakc
Well-Known Member
That looks like 14.5 degree PA pinion stock. I used 20PA pinion stick on my oil pump, the gears are a little stronger, but I am guessing the added volume at the root probably makes a higher volume pump.
jpeter said:
No, not really. Unlike an oil pump, it doesn't need to build pressure. All it does is create a circulation.
Sorry no progress to report on the build. I did get the last of the drawings created for the blower. Again they will be available when the project is completed. 25 pages.
Cheers!!
Cheers!!
I don't know why I do this but I "cant not" do it. After making rod bearings and wrist pins I lay out the parts to be used and weigh them in grams.
Then I put the light pistons with the heavy rods and weigh everything again.
Then I put the heavy pins with the light sets and re weigh.
Now I know I'm as close as I can get to balanced. I am real happy with that.
Then came time to press the sets together. The pins slip into the pistons and press into the rods.
I put the assembly into the lathe and oiled it up real good. Let it run until everything was turning real nice. Took about 10 minutes.
Then I put the light pistons with the heavy rods and weigh everything again.
Then I put the heavy pins with the light sets and re weigh.
Now I know I'm as close as I can get to balanced. I am real happy with that.
Then came time to press the sets together. The pins slip into the pistons and press into the rods.
I put the assembly into the lathe and oiled it up real good. Let it run until everything was turning real nice. Took about 10 minutes.
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Can you please elaborate on your goodies
connecting rods:
- is the wristpin end also bushed like the bottom end, or plain?
- what type of bearing material did you use?
- on assembly, would you locktite the bottom end bolts, or normal torque is ok?
wristpins:
- material = dill rod? hardened?
- what keeps them retained in the piston
connecting rods:
- is the wristpin end also bushed like the bottom end, or plain?
- what type of bearing material did you use?
- on assembly, would you locktite the bottom end bolts, or normal torque is ok?
wristpins:
- material = dill rod? hardened?
- what keeps them retained in the piston
petertha said:
Wrist pin end is plain
I used bronze for the rod bearings
Normal torque is fine
Drill rod polished to slip fit into piston
They are pressed into the rod and float in the piston.
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Thanks. And whats the trick to making accurate split bushings like that in order that the faces are tight & the OD & ID bores concentric etc? Do you make a 'sandwich' of 2 bars of bronze, chuck in the 4-jaw, bore & turn etc then split them? Ive read where some guys use Ca glue & then dissolve it in acetone to part the half rings.
All I have on hand is round so i saw it in half with a slitting saw. I just hold it close to the chuck and turn the piece. I don't solder or glue or bond in any form. Before I part off the pieces I make a witness mark on the piece so I can get the pieces back together the right way. When I part off the pieces both halves go flying and if they fly at the same time you know the split was close to center.
Hi guy's!
Made some progress on a few things today. I'm trying to get everything ready so the next time the crankshaft comes out, I will have everything ready to put it back in for the last time. I made a couple more collets to hold gears for modification. I made one for the idler gears and this one to modify the crankshaft gear.
Turned the hub down to the correct thickness. This will put the correct distance between the gear and the bearing.
Then the OD was modified to work with the bearing. The bore was opened up to a press fit onto the crankshaft. This finished up the crank gear.
I also made one for the idler gears. The idler just needed the hub removed. I also made the idler mounts. Only one of the idler gears is needed but I wanted to make mine like a Pete Jackson gear drive so i'm going to run 2 idlers.
After that I made my fixture for heat treating my rings. This fixture is made the George Trimble way. I included the fixture in the drawings but it is only good for 5/8 rings.
Turned and bored the cast iron for the rings. Finished with 180, 320, and then 600 grit paper. Real happy with the finish and hit my number inside of .0002.
Loaded 27 rings into the fixture and they are ready for some heat.
Well the rings are in the furnace for 4 hours so I made a couple blanks for my camshafts. I cut the drill rod to length and center drilled the blanks. Then I couldn't figure out how I was going to turn them. Couldn't put the lathe dog on and do the piece so i turned the first OD because it was .250 and I was able to put it in the lathe using a collet.
Turned all my OD's starting at the tailstock and worked my way back to the collet.
This cam will be the same as the V4 and the blown cam will have a little more race in it.
Started on the fixture to turn the cam. Decided I was done for the weekend.
Turned all my OD's starting at the tailstock and worked my way back to the collet.
This cam will be the same as the V4 and the blown cam will have a little more race in it.
Started on the fixture to turn the cam. Decided I was done for the weekend.
The rings have cooled. I had to boil them to remove the anti-scale powder. I made them .001 thicker than needed so I will polish them with some 600 grit before installing them onto the pistons.
