Bentwings
Well-Known Member
I have only some sketches as my double vision makes doing much else. I’ll make some cad models and take pictures as I go . I have a bunch of parts coming . I may lay them out and take pictures just to show this is a bigger project than meets the eye. Try reading a micrometer with magnifying glass then seeing two views at the same time. Closing one eye helps sometimes. I’m using a stylus to help typing but I still make mistakes . I think I’m going to use two heaters. I have to check the home circuits to see what I use. I could pull the stove out snd make a y extension cord so I could use 220 but it’s a lot of work. I can use two separate circuits with a bit heavier extension cord. If it doesn’t work I’ll just break down and go with the quiet air compressor. I was already committed when I started the boiler build or I could have just scrapped it. But we’ll see how it turns out. It’s a new hobby for me so plenty of room for mistakes and misdirection. Something I learned in football I think. LOL
Byron
that’s interesting. I’m setting my “power plant model up so I can experiment as you have doneHere's a "Small Engine Dyno" that I built years ago and is still working - built as a "Rolling Road" braked dyno for testing slotcars and is capable of measuring from 0 to 300W output.
View attachment 132240
I started with the idea of using a DC motor as a generator and loading its output - using motor parts scavenged from dead cordless tools.
Below the GA for the rolling road - the roller drives a smaller motor as an analogue tacho where Volts equals (calibrated of course) rpm.
And the larger motor is the "generator" to be loaded up by applying increasing loads (multiple 12V x 50W downlighter lamps) such that Amperes equals torque (again obviously calibrated).
View attachment 132241
Well even dead short it did not produce enough torque to do the job - I nearly wrote the whole thing off as a failure but then I thought - what if you force the brake motor in reverse ? - with nothing to lose I tried it - only now forcing the load via the surge lamps - as in the diagram below.
View attachment 132242
Using the original drive components out of the donor cordless drill as a power supply
Eureka it worked - Current was still proportional to torque.
Note optional loading of 50W, 100W & 150W - giving a range of 0-300W in 50W steps.
It's only major shortcoming was specifically the problem with slotcar motors is that they cannot output maximum power for more than a few seconds without cooking them so your test has to be done very quickly - this should not be a problem for motors capable of continuous output.
The point I am making here is that you can get a torque reading via the amperes and calibrate it against a torque arm and spring balance - using nothing more than scavenged parts from a cordless drill.
Hope this is of some use to someone.
Regards, Ken
Edit: The DC Wattmeters are an 8 component dead simple (and accurate) idea off the internet if anyone is interested.
I had slots too as a kid
It was pretty serious stuff for a few years. There a number slot houses here the end of my involvement can rather violently . There was money on the table when big fist fight broke out I tossed all my stuff in my box and ran out the back door just as the cops arrived. I ram as fast as I could. Funny now looking back . Fortunately it was a night game so my own kids were not there. I done even go into that section of town anymore it’s in the center of where the infamous riots were.
Byron