Mystery steam engine

[chris123]

Thank you heeeeeeeps charles
I checked the clearance on the brass block
And the spacers between the radial arms
They have to slide
Are too tight bud
Lap it??
Chris

Sleep well

 

[chris123]

Hi charles
The stroke is 50.2 mm with the verniere
Chris

 

[chris123]

I slowly start understanding how
It all meant to be
One problem
It binding up
Eighter bend it or mill it straight on the bottom
If i tighten bottom stiff

 

[GreenTwin]

Eccentric rods were often curved/bent.
Not sure if rod bending is a good option here, but may rods were curved for alignment purposes.
.

 

[chris123]

Morning? Green twin
It doesent thread in the center
If i loosen bottom flanges ok
If i tighten them
Then its stiff because not center valve rod
To gear

 

[chris123]

Also got a lot of play
Could reduce the disrance of the radial slider

 

[chris123]

Thats probably why the pins touching

 

[GreenTwin]

Twin compounds are not my area of expertise, although I have studied them, and generally understand how they work.
Someone with a bit more hands-on expertise really needs to guide you here; I can only make random comments.
I think it can all be sorted out; it will just require some adjustments and finesse.
The folks contributing are very knowledgeable, and so we are lucky to have their support.
.

 

[Jasonb]

You would need to be very careful doing any bending or milling. With the forked ends to the eccentric rods just bending one end or milling the bottom will throw the two holes in the fork out of parallel to the motion.

If you bend then you need to bend top and bottom to maintain parallel, probably better to see if eccentrics can move sideways as the first option.

Charles, might be worth clicking the drawing setting to metric and printing out another one as that seems to be what Chris works in. Also if output as a PDF it can be added as an attachment which will print out bigger and better than an image on here

 

[chris123]

Twin compounds are not my area of expertise, although I have studied them, and generally understand how they work.
Someone with a bit more hands-on expertise really needs to guide you here; I can only make random comments.
I think it can all be sorted out; it will just require some adjustments and finesse.
The folks contributing are very knowledgeable, and so we are lucky to have their support.
.

Yes
I realy apriciate them green twin
And also thank you
I couldent do nothing without u guys
Chris

 

[chris123]

You would need to be very careful doing any bending or milling. With the forked ends to the eccentric rods just bending one end or milling the bottom will throw the two holes in the fork out of parallel to the motion.

If you bend then you need to bend top and bottom to maintain parallel, probably better to see if eccentrics can move sideways as the first option.

Charles, might be worth clicking the drawing setting to metric and printing out another one as that seems to be what Chris works in. Also if output as a PDF it can be added as an attachment which will print out bigger and better than an image on here

Hi jason
I just thought before maybe top cast is not align with bottom
I wait with that and see
I clean the valve gear and make sure it moves freely and install back
Chris

 

[chris123]

By the way did u see the video with the play of that slider?
Chris

 

[Charles Lamont]

Jason, I am pretty sure the eccentrics are integral with the ckankshaft and cannot be moved.

I think very carefully bending the rods is the answer, but difficult to get right as you say. It needs a double bend. Perhaps another tool is called for. A piece of flat steel bar with a pin sticking out of the side at one end. The pin dead square and a good fit in the top bearings of the rod. This could be used as a gauge to measure the amount of offset, and to check that the side of the eccentric strap is parallel to the bar.

I would say don't worry too much about the lateral play in the die block for now. You could come back to that later.

As for lapping, I will come back to that but have to go now. Just don't introduce any slop. The quality of your restoration job will be measured on how little noise the engine makes when running!

 

[chris123]

Jason, I am pretty sure the eccentrics are integral with the ckankshaft and cannot be moved.

I think very carefully bending the rods is the answer, but difficult to get right as you say. It needs a double bend. Perhaps another tool is called for. A piece of flat steel bar with a pin sticking out of the side at one end. The pin dead square and a good fit in the top bearings of the rod. This could be used as a gauge to measure the amount of offset, and to check that the side of the eccentric strap is parallel to the bar.

I would say don't worry too much about the lateral play in the die block for now. You could come back to that later.

As for lapping, I will come back to that but have to go now. Just don't introduce any slop. The quality of your restoration job will be measured on how little noise the engine makes when running!

Hi charles
Thank you very much for your work
I didnt lap actually
The movement is onyy sideways because of
The depth of the groove
So all i did was a couple of files on the topradius so it moves freely
The slop sideways can only be eliminated by reducing thr round spacer in between
The 2 guides
Tomorrow i will have the second valve gear done
And continue to clean up crankshaft
Chris

 

[chris123]

You would need to be very careful doing any bending or milling. With the forked ends to the eccentric rods just bending one end or milling the bottom will throw the two holes in the fork out of parallel to the motion.

If you bend then you need to bend top and bottom to maintain parallel, probably better to see if eccentrics can move sideways as the first option.

Charles, might be worth clicking the drawing setting to metric and printing out another one as that seems to be what Chris works in. Also if output as a PDF it can be added as an attachment which will print out bigger and better than an image on here

True
I would apriciate that
Chris

 

[chris123]

Hi charles
Thank you very much for your work
I didnt lap actually
The movement is onyy sideways because of
The depth of the groove
So all i did was a couple of files on the topradius so it moves freely
The slop sideways can only be eliminated by reducing thr round spacer in between
The 2 guides
Tomorrow i will have the second valve gear done
And continue to clean up crankshaft
Chris

Ok by the looks on this drawings
We got basicly an outer ring with a lock screw on top which can accumulate the actual valvebody and both sliding in the rod
Very very smart solution
Awsome
I take steel
Or does it have to be cast iron?
Less mess with steel
Or valve cast iron and outer ring steel?
Regards chris

 

[chris123]

Ok by the looks on this drawings
We got basicly an outer ring with a lock screw on top which can accumulate the actual valvebody and both sliding in the rod
Very very smart solution
Awsome
I take steel
Or does it have to be cast iron?
Less mess with steel
Or valve cast iron and outer ring steel?
Regards chris

Forgotten to attach that

 

[Charles Lamont]

Best not to use steel if you are going to run on steam. The valve wants to be iron, gunmetal or bronze. The buckle could be the any of those, or brass or stainless steel. The locking screw should be stainless.