Rupnow i.c. Engine with governor

[fpravenscroft]

hello Brian
i am going to the Toronto from England for Christmas and i wonder if you or anyone else could tell me where i might buy the bevel gears (martin 2424) used in your engine as i am accumulating the parts to make one
keep up the good work
regards
peter

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I bought the parts through McMaster-Carr in the usa. I'm sure I give the specs and part numbers in my build thread. See post #14 at the beginning of this thread for part numbers and identity..---Brian

 

[wagnmkr]

Brian, can you tell me if anyone in our area sells concentrated layout dye that you can mix with water or do I need to get a can of the spray stuff?

Cheers,

Tom

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I buy mine at Varty's tool supply in Barrie. 705-726-0091--They sell it in half pint size and there is a little brush attached to the screw on lid. It comes in deep wine red, or a medium blue. It is a liquid, and it drys fast, lasts forever, washes off with laquer thinners. I also buy my cast iron in Barrie at Barrie Welding 705-726-1444. They have cast iron in round bars and will lop off a few inches or whatever you need.--Prices are reasonable.

 

[wagnmkr]

Thanks Brian. I found that the local Acklands Grainger sells the stuff too. I will have to come up to Barrie to get some cast iron though as no one down here has it that I have found so far.

Cheers,

Tom

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Thanks Brian. I found that the local Acklands Grainger sells the stuff too. I will have to come up to Barrie to get some cast iron though as no one down here has it that I have found so far.

Cheers,

Tom

If you come up, call ahead--my number is on my web page. I'll bring you to my house for a demo run of the Rupnow Engine.

 

[wagnmkr]

Will Do Brian.

Another question I have been meaning to ask ... In that super hobby shop in Barrie where you got the gears for your pump engine... they had bevel gears for the rear ends of large, radio controlled cars ... they were steel and looked to be about the right size for the engine. Did you ever look at them for that use?

Tom

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I never looked at the hobby shop, but what I did was to buy a right angle drill attachment at Canadian Tire. they are quite inexpensive, less than $30 and have a perfect set of right angle bevel gears in them---and you get a free chuck out of the deal.

 

[wagnmkr]

I will have a look today. I need a small chuck.

Cheers,

Tom

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Let me correct myself here. I DID take a look at the gears in my right angle drill adapter, and I THOUGHT about using them. However, I thought that at some point down the road I would probably need the right angle drill adapter to do what it was purchased for, so I ordered my bevel gears from McMaster.

 

[wagnmkr]

Thanks Brian. I'll have a look.

Cheers,

Tom

 

[krankie frankie]

Crankshaft bearing caps are made push rod guide is made, stock is on order for flywheels and side plates.

frankie

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Frankie--Please start a post showing us the development of your "Rupnow engine". We are very interested, and we love to see pictures. Right now there are 3 running engines in the world, mine in Canada, Gus' in Singapore and Swifty in Melbourne, Australia. We have recently picked up another new build, Wagonmaker in Lindsay, Ontario. Cogsy from Australia will probably have the next running engine. Luc from Quebec seems to have got lost in a snowstorm.--Where are you located in the world, Frankie?

 

[krankie frankie]

The material for the base an sides showed up so the project is under way again. One of these days I will put the squeeze on my wife to take and post some pictures. My location is in a northern suburb of Minneapolis Minn.

frankie

 

[krankie frankie]

I forgot to mention that I always enjoyed your stuff so I will be making your ball machine when this engine gets done, which will not be any time soon given the rate that I proceed on these things. So keep on keeping on.

frankie

 

[Path]

Brian:

Have a few questions on your valve/valve cage.

Referring to your PDF for the cage dated 13/08/2013:

The inside cut (30 degrees) camfer. Does that matter or can I just drill the .25 at a depth of .282 (as shown) leaving it 42 degrees?

I noticed that the 90* is noted as being important and yet the valve PDF (dated 13/08/2013) says 92*. That seems like it would require a lot more lapping for a good seal ... less lapping if also at 90*.


Thanks,

Pat H.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Pat--just drill to a depth of .282 with the 1/4" drill. I didn't put any dimension on what you are calling the angle 30 degrees. That is because the angle shown indicates that the hole is put in there with a drill, not an endmill so there will be some kind of angle there, instead of just a flat bottom. The reason for the two different angles (90 and 92 degrees) is that I want the valve and cage to have a line contact, not two flats running together. It is MUCH easier to get the valve to seal on a line contact, with minimal lapping rather than a flat on flat configuration. You have to be able to get the valves to seal properly to get the engine to start. With a steel valve and a brass or bronze cage, the line contact will soon become a flat contact after the engine has been started and ran for 20 minutes or so.

 

[Path]

Thanks Brian ... now back to making chips.


Pat H.

 

[canadianhorsepower]

Luc from Quebec seems to have got lost in a snowstorm

I'M NOT LOST IN A SNOWSTORM
I'M GOING THRUE CHEMIO TREATMENT AGAIN
THATNKS FOR BEING SO SARCASTIC FOR NO REASON

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Luc--Sorry that you are ill. You and I seem to rub each other the wrong way, and I apologize for that. I wasn't poking at you because of your illness. Cancer is a truly horrible thing, I lost my father to it, and I know how dreadful you feel going through Chemotherapy. You have my best wishes for remission. I'm not really a religious sort of guy, but I will pray for you tonight.----Brian