black85vette
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Very nice. Love the looks and the sound. I am going to have to start looking for pieces that will work for one of these.
Plumbing Parts Engine
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vlmarshall
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Oh man, that sounds great! :bow: Hmmm.... Plumbingitis?
zeeprogrammer
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Very cool! Mesmerizing to listen to.
But no fair just as I'm off to bed...I'm going to have that sound in my head all night!
But no fair just as I'm off to bed...I'm going to have that sound in my head all night!
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Thanks for the interest and comments. Without letting any grass grow, as it were, here are the plumbing parts that will become the valve body. Its a standard, 1/8" brass plumbing tee, two 1/8" brass plugs, and a brass nipple. Bought these at Home Depot a couple of days ago, so they are standard, off the shelf items.
The intake valve and exhaust valve will be fit into the brass plugs. As you can see, the plugs are already hollowed out as bought. The valve seat will be cut in the end and the valve stem will extend through a hole drilled through and out the square end. The top 1/3 (or perhaps /2) of the squared end will be rounded off for the valve spring to fit over.
Once the valves are fitted to the plugs, they will be securely screwed into the opposite ends of the brass tee. Holes will then be drilled and tapped through the side of the brass tee and through the side of the plug into the void behind the valve. A threaded brass pipe, probably 1/4" diameter, will be screwed into each of the holes. One will be the intake tube and the other will be the exhaust.
The brass tee, using the nipple in the hole on the side, will be screwed into the side of the head. The exhaust valve stem will extend back toward the cam and the intake valve will, of course, be on the other end. The spark plug will be threaded into the face of the head. Instead of a carburetor, I'll be using Jan Ridders' vapor fuel tank. Simple and elegant, eh? We'll see...
Chuck
The intake valve and exhaust valve will be fit into the brass plugs. As you can see, the plugs are already hollowed out as bought. The valve seat will be cut in the end and the valve stem will extend through a hole drilled through and out the square end. The top 1/3 (or perhaps /2) of the squared end will be rounded off for the valve spring to fit over.
Once the valves are fitted to the plugs, they will be securely screwed into the opposite ends of the brass tee. Holes will then be drilled and tapped through the side of the brass tee and through the side of the plug into the void behind the valve. A threaded brass pipe, probably 1/4" diameter, will be screwed into each of the holes. One will be the intake tube and the other will be the exhaust.
The brass tee, using the nipple in the hole on the side, will be screwed into the side of the head. The exhaust valve stem will extend back toward the cam and the intake valve will, of course, be on the other end. The spark plug will be threaded into the face of the head. Instead of a carburetor, I'll be using Jan Ridders' vapor fuel tank. Simple and elegant, eh? We'll see...
Chuck
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Got the valves made today and made the modifications to the 1/8" brass plugs. The valves were turned from 5/16 drill rod and have 1/8" diameter stems. The ends of the valve stems were grooved with a dremel cutoff blade to hold the e-clips:
Here you can see the changes made to the plugs. Part of the square end was turned down and will go inside the valve spring. A 1/8" hole was drilled through for the valve stem. And, the bottom end was chamfered at 45 degrees for the valve seat. Not sure how well these brass valve seats will hold up, but cast iron plugs are also available if they need to be replaced.
Here you can see how more or less how the valve block will go together (It was probably already obvious to everyone and I am just being pedantic!).
Still have to fabricate the valve keepers and fit some springs. And, I have to start thinking about yet another cylinder head (number 3).
Chuck
Here you can see the changes made to the plugs. Part of the square end was turned down and will go inside the valve spring. A 1/8" hole was drilled through for the valve stem. And, the bottom end was chamfered at 45 degrees for the valve seat. Not sure how well these brass valve seats will hold up, but cast iron plugs are also available if they need to be replaced.
Here you can see how more or less how the valve block will go together (It was probably already obvious to everyone and I am just being pedantic!).
Still have to fabricate the valve keepers and fit some springs. And, I have to start thinking about yet another cylinder head (number 3).
Chuck
Interesting use of available fittings, Chuck.
I've never used brass for valve seats either, but have used aluminum, and it worked fine. That engine with aluminum seats has about 10-12 hours on it with no problems. Seems like brass would be a better material for them than al, being a somewhat sturdier stuff.
Then engine sounds great running on air! Besides it's use as primary power, like in your other engines, it also looks like a good proof of concept driver. (I'm excited to see it run on gas, too!)
Dean
I've never used brass for valve seats either, but have used aluminum, and it worked fine. That engine with aluminum seats has about 10-12 hours on it with no problems. Seems like brass would be a better material for them than al, being a somewhat sturdier stuff.
Then engine sounds great running on air! Besides it's use as primary power, like in your other engines, it also looks like a good proof of concept driver. (I'm excited to see it run on gas, too!)
Dean
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Today I made the new head for IC operation. Here you can see the head, with valve block assembly, attached to the cylinder. Decided to spiffy this one up a bit and counter bored the heads of the socket head cap screws. I'm also going with a larger, 10mm CM-6 spark plug in this design since they are cheaper and a little more robust than the 1/4 x 32 model plugs.
Here's the side view. You can clearly see the valve stems and e-clips in this picture.
Chuck
Here's the side view. You can clearly see the valve stems and e-clips in this picture.
Chuck
zeeprogrammer
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Beautiful work.
R
RobWilson
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Some very fine engineering Chuck :bow: :bow: :bow:
Rob
Rob
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Thanks, again, everyone for the interest and comments. Sure hope I can get this thing running on fuel. I plan to start the Jan Ridders vapor fuel tank next. Got a bid in on some pocket watch crystals on Ebay for the site glass.
Chuck
Chuck
Jeez!!! Picky, picky, picky. you're a hobby machinist and an english professor, right??? ;D ;D ;DDiymania said:
Who cares - site ,sight - we all new what you meant.
Anyway I don't have a clue how these pocket watch crystals are going to work as site glasses. Can you explain in 15 words or less? Do the crystals have holes in the centre or just a depression to take a pivot? Why crystal - why not any old chunk of glass?
Hope you are lucky with the watch(es).
Cheers,
Brian
Anyway I don't have a clue how these pocket watch crystals are going to work as site glasses. Can you explain in 15 words or less? Do the crystals have holes in the centre or just a depression to take a pivot? Why crystal - why not any old chunk of glass?
Hope you are lucky with the watch(es).
Cheers,
Brian
Tin Falcon
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Hey guys keep it light here!!! We are all human this is shop class and not English. An if you start criticizing others work you will hear about that as well .This board will not be degraded with grade school banter.
Tin
Tin
vlmarshall
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