CNC project for beginner operators ( Horizontal twin cylinder)

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Any reasons not to try this?
IMHO unless it is a really boring color use it for engine bases , or even better cool engines or pen and pencil sets.
Corian is an opaque plastic in the Methleacrelate family think lucite , perplex etc. you can pretty much use woodworking metal working tools on it. I have cut it on the table saw, band saw . turned on the lathe. heavy feeds will chip it. Hot tools will make colors milky.
Tin
 
kvom said:
1) Any chance you can supply the CamBam files those of us that have the program?

2) I assume you set the tab height tall enough to account for the thinnest Corian you're likely to get. Otherwise the tabs could be quite fragile.

3) I recently acquired a quite large piece of Corian. I have been thinking of cutting some pieces up to use as fixture plates for milling metal parts. Any reasons not to try this? I assume I can cut it easily with a jigsaw.

1) I cant attach a cambam file to my post. Took a few days to get TAP file approved. You shouldn't need it with the Tap being available.

2) Tabs are plenty wide and tall. Unless your sheet get as thin as .400 you should have no trouble.

3) The only trouble you might have is threads would wear out faster than aluminum. I would hate to waste it that way. I use it as decoration and engine bases. I think it's nice looking stuff.
 
My piece is 2x3 foot rectangle, so plenty left for engine bases. I generally use through bolts for fixtures, so threads wouldn't be a problem.
 
Steve,

I'm in the build. :)

But before I can start I need to finish my part for the Radial team build. ;)
Cylinders and Liners are done, should have the Pistons done ... soon. Murphy is really
getting in the way. Plus we are having some problem with the crankcase builder. He commented
to the project but we haven't heard from him for sometime now. So we don't really know
what is going on ... hope everything is okay with him.

This project looks very interesting ... I would like to find some Corian, if not I may
use Aluminum. I did reviewed your g code by CamBam ... I will need to modify it so that it will work on my CNC.
But I don't see this as a problem ... the basic code will work (G00, G01 etc.). Just need
to add a few things. :D


Pat
 
well I cut 4 blanks last night about 4 1/2. the downstairs bench needed a good vacuum cleaning anyway.
need to decide what to do for tooling I am contemplating some tool holders drill holders so I do not to keep from having to reset the z on each tool for each part.
Tin
 
On my mill I need to reset Z on endmills each time. For drills, I have a keyless chuck; to set Z0, I open the chuck and let the drill bit touch the work surface, then tighten. That's quite fast.
 
kvom said:
On my mill I need to reset Z on endmills each time. For drills, I have a keyless chuck; to set Z0, I open the chuck and let the drill bit touch the work surface, then tighten. That's quite fast.


I do the same thing. It's so fast to just touch off the tool and zero out Z.
 
Hi Steve,
Thanks for providing the R&D and the build thread for this project, great idea.
I'm bummed because I just thru away 8 pcs. of 1/2" X 6" X 36" white Corian that have been laying around in my shop for almost twenty years :mad:
I figured if haven't used this stuff yet I never will and it seemed like I was always moving it looking for something else.

Woodguy said:
This is a great idea. I'm just about to start learning cnc at a local maker's co-op. What software do you use Steve? I still have an opportunity to influence what software tools the co-op gets. I know we have some donated licenses from Solidworks and AutoCad, but no one has mentioned a CAM solution. The mill is a Tormach 1100.

Woodguy, Just to interject here, I use SprutCam and really like it. If your Co-op bought the mill from Tormach they should be able to get a discounted price on SprutCam.
There is a steep learning curve at the beginning but once you get going it is pretty easy and versatile software.

Gerry
 
Gerry Sweetland said:
I'm bummed because I just thru away 8 pcs. of 1/2" X 6" X 36" white Corian that have been laying around in my shop for almost twenty years :mad:


That stinks. I horde white for making sparkplug insulators. Maybe you can get a chunk somewhere and join in. Would have looked great in white.

 
This weeks part is going to be the base.

The setup for the base is the same as the standards. I used a 7 X 4-1/2 inch piece. The center of the piece
is ( X0,Y0 ) and the top surface is Z0 for all tooling.

DSCN2448s.jpg



Once again the holes are spotted and drilled using an 11/64 drill bit.

DSCN2450s.jpg



Then enough material is removed to enable the edge to be rounded over.

DSCN2452s.jpg



The bit needed by the Gcode is a 1/8 radius with a 3/8 tip.

DSCN2454s.jpg


DSCN2456s.jpg



And then the endmill cuts out the part.

DSCN2458s.jpg



Again the waste is removed and the tabs cleaned up

DSCN2460s.jpg



Then the 4 holes that the standards are attached are counterbored.

DSCN2462s.jpg



DSCN2464s.jpg


View attachment Base.pdf

View attachment Base.tap
 
Steve would I be able to run your code in my Mach 3 as is?

If I where to make from aluminium can I adjust the speeds and feeds or is that all ready wrote into your gcode? I know when you made that gcode for me on the team build for the fly wheel lettering, I ran it as is without a problem.

Matt
 
1hand said:
Steve would I be able to run your code in my Mach 3 as is?

If I where to make from aluminium can I adjust the speeds and feeds or is that all ready wrote into your gcode? I know when you made that gcode for me on the team build for the fly wheel lettering, I ran it as is without a problem.

Matt

The code was written for the mach3 machines. Most people who convert or scratch build a CNC machine, including myself, so that is the target audience.

I wrote the code to cut .100 at 60 inches a minute. If i tried to do that in aluminum on my little mill it would probably tip over. I would not recommend it. If you are a CamBam user I can send the file so you can make the necessary adjustments.
 
I'm in, but lagging behind. Just found this thread a couple days ago...

Destroyed the spindle on my cnc last summer doing a freebie, and had not replaced it, so Friday i ordered a Taig spindle Assembly. Should be here next week. No Corian in his area, will have use something else.

Had to work on your code to get to work with my Deskcnc software and controller. Put the Dremel back on and cut the standards out of Styrofoam to test the code...worked great.

Thanks for posting this project....it's going to be fun.





 
Gary Davison said:
I'm in, but lagging behind.


Glad to hear your in. I just checked and CamBam won't post to DeskCNC.

Try going to your local cabinet shop and show the guy what your going to use the Corian for. Offer to make one for him if he gives you some scrap pieces. Most guy's will after they find out what it's for.

 
Well steve: I cut 4 blanks last weekend. I have been digging through my small collection of end mills . Do not see anything I am sure of using. I am thinking carbide with a 5/8 or 3/4 cut length Two flute end mill. I may order a few from mcmaster car but want to make sure I order what is needed. A buddy at works has offered me tooling he has a lot he is not using but has not come through yet. So forward movement is slow here. Thanks for the work you are putting into this thread .


All : for those who are curious about cnc and want to look at the g code. you can open it up in notepad and read it through if you have other than mach 3 you or you want to edit for other material you can edit it with notepad as well.
tin

 
Tin Falcon said:
I have been digging through my small collection of end mills . Do not see anything I am sure of using.


I use 1/8 shank carbide cutters with a .500 depth of cut. If you go with a 3/8 shank HSS then make sure the DOC is at least .750. When you get to the flywheel the spokes are cut from the top all the way thru the piece so the cutter goes .700 deep. That leaves very little clearance for the shank. If you get a 1/8 shank cutter the DOC only needs to be .500 because the deepest step is only .468.

DSCN2503s.jpg
 
Thanks steve: I will probably order s few cutters. I do have a couple double ended cutters with 3/8 shank may be enough to get started with.
Tin
 
Good news!!


I was going to engrave a few things today and then make a few engine pieces today. Half way thru the second engraving flames shot out the bottom of the spindle motor and then it stopped and made some smoke. If I knew I would only get a few thousand hours and 3 years of abuse out of it I would have never gave the guy the 8 bucks for it. ;D ;D

I just ordered a replacement motor that is about the same diameter but longer so i will need to do some reconfiguring. This should not effect the thread here unless the shipping takes forever.
 
Hi Steve

My 1/8" corner rounding end mill has a 1/4" tip.....would you please post the outline dimension's of the base(or the dxf) so I can redo that section of code.

Thanks

Gary
 
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