Brian Builds the Kerzel Hit and Miss I.C.

[Brian Rupnow]

Can you elaborate on the errors you mentioned Brian, I'd be very interested in knowing about them before I get too far into something only to find out it isn't right and could have been corrected for ahead of time. I do like the idea of making the base into a plinth arrangement in order to elevate the engine just a bit, it makes foe a possible good location to stash a fuel tank. ;D

BC1
Jim

Bearcar---When I first saw your post about hiding the gas tank in the base, I thought "What a great idea!!!" However, last night as I lay in bed thinking about it, a little light come on---I don't think that these engines have any provision for lifting the gas up to the carburetor. I think the tank has to be level with, or slightly above the carb. Maybe someone else more knowledgeable can chime in here and help us out???----Brian

 

[Jasonb]

If you were on this side of the pond I could let you have the corian, I've not turned it but when you mill it you will get loads od white flakes that will stick to everything with static. Not too bad for the sizes we are likely to mill but when I'm using it for counter tops with the router its like confetti. I find it also make svery good durable formers when flanging metal, use it on some gear guards for my traction engine just the other week, you can see the former middle pic top row

I think their "bouganvillia" would be a good match to the colour in your rendering

If you are stuck for tungsten then Hemingway here in the UK sell small discs for just that use.

Jason

 

[putputman]

Brian, if you have a cabinet shop anywhere near you, they will probably give you a few chunks of Corian as most of the countertops are made from it and the sink cut outs are usually scrap they throw away.

I have found that my gas tanks on hit & miss engines work better if they are lower than the fuel mixers. If the gas source is higher they tend to flood and the gas will run out if the engine is not running. A check valve sometime prevents the gas from running out but my experience with check valves is they get sticky if the engine is not run fairly often. If you have good compression you will be able to draw the gas up to the engine.

I guess everyone has their preferences.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

There---Its Done!!! I feel like I had run a marathon!!! I will have to hear from a few more sources about the gas tank setting below the carburetor. I don't have any preferences---I just want it to run!! and its a ton of work to hollow that base out and use it for a gas tank if it won't work correctly.

 

[bearcar1]

I thought that I read somewhere one could acquire small round bits of tungsten from everyday automative point sets. I don't know, but can they be unsoldered from the follower arm somehow? I have never really paid much attention to how that bit was secured. AFA hollowing out that base for a gas tank Brian, maybe the plinth could be designed in pieces and bolted together with a brass or copper tank inside. Still watching with much interest. When will the chips start to fly?

BC1
Jim

 

[dreeves]

Brian, I got lots of white corian let me know if you need some. Send me a pm

Dave

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Jim---In the "Building Notes" that Kerzel provides if you follow the link in my very first post, He suggests using the tungsten that you remove from a set of automotive points, and solder it to the brass strips. As far as when the chips start to fly, I'm not sure. I've been down for almost 3 weeks now with a terribly bad back. I put 2 new sinks and tap sets into one of our bathrooms about 3 weeks ago, and I must have pulled or pinched something when I did that. I've been living on Percocetts like they are candies and getting all kinds of x-rays and ultrasounds done over the last 2 weeks. I have to get rid of some pain before I can stand over a lathe or mill for very long.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Brian, I got lots of white corian let me know if you need some. Send me a pm

Dave

Thanks Dreeves---where do you live?

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Since I'm already into this up to my---armpits---I'm going to try and go with the ignition points and sparkplug approach, as outlined by Kerzel. I have a set of points out of a Chrysler car in my Webster, and they work just fine. I'm not much of an electronics Guru, but I can find my way around points style ignitions okay. (I've got 50 years of hotrodding behind me to help with the points style ignition).

 

[dreeves]

Brian,
I live in Southeast Pennsylvania

 

[Brian Rupnow]

One of the issues I'm facing with this build is whether to purchase the gears or to make them. I purchased the gears for my Webster, and they worked fine, but they cost somewhere between $50 and $75. I want to use 32 pitch gears with 14.5 degree pressure angles. One is a 20 tooth, and one is a 40 tooth. I tried to make my own single tooth gear cutter, and used it with only marginal success, just to see if I could do it. this time I'm wondering if there is one of the disc shaped commercial cutters that fits on an arbor available that would work to cut these two gear sizes. I haven't checked it out yet, but if I could buy one cutter and arbor for somewhere close to the same price as a set of gears, then I could have my cake and eat it too.---

 

[gmac]

Brian;
For gear cutters you may want to contact these guys - I haven't tried them yet so can't comment;

https://www.traverscanada.com/Default.asp

Garry

 

[kcmillin]

Brian, I would have to day that purchasing gear cutters is the way to go.

When you buy a $50 gear you only get ONE gear. If you take that same $50 and purchase an involute gear cutter you will have an unlimited supply of gears (for the range of the cutter that is)

I just recently had the same problem. I needed 48 pitch gears. I ended up purchasing a full set through multiple places. It ended up costing me $225 USA . I am extremely happy with my decision.

Through discussion on this forum involute gear cutters can be used to make bevel and helical gears as well. So the possibilities are endless.

Travers is a good place, very good prices.

When I purchased the first cutter I needed they sent me a %20 off coupon for my next order. So if you decide to get a full set you could get an incredible deal on them.

I made a simple arbor to fit a 7/8 collet in my mill.


This place has them, but they are expensive.
http://www.victornet.com/alphabetic/Gear-Cutters-14-1-2-deg-20-DP-to-48-DP/907.html?id=nZbNDwIv

Kel

 

[kcmillin]

I could not find the gear cutters on the Traver Canada website, but here is the Link for Travers in the US.

These are 32 pitch 14.5 degree, and a very reasonable price.

http://www.travers.com/skulist.asp?...evel3+id+30188&AttribSel=Pitch+Diameter='32"'

Kel

 

[Jasonb]

You won't get away with one cutter you are going to need a #6 & #3 to cover that number of teeth.

And back to the sparkplugs, you can buy 8mm plugs that would not be far off the 5/16 on the original drawings.

Jason

 

[lathe nut]

Brian, this number I posted is a set of gear cutter on e bay, I just got a set from them, Lathe Nut, Item number: 200521830070

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I am looking st the cylinder/water jacket as the most complex thing to start with. Since everything has to be "true" to the cylinder bore, I think I will do it all on the mill. I will milll the base side first to use as my "Witnes surface" and mount that surface to an angle plate to do the 0.950 thru-bore, the 1.00" x 1/8" deep register diameter, and the 1.311 water jacket undercut, and to face off that end of the block and put the 6 threaded holes in which hold the cylinder head in place. Then I will machine a 0.950 round bar x 5.25" long to fix into the bore, with about 1 1/2" sticking out each end , and do the rest using the rotary table. Kerzels dimensions on this part are all okay except for the two #6-32 holes used to mount the ignition points. They move because of my desire to use only #5-40 and #10-24 fasteners on this project.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Every once in a while, something happens which absolutely confirms my faith in the inherent decentness of people. A gentleman in central USA has volunteered to make the gears I require and send them to me!!! Up People!!!---Brian

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I've had a big old chunk pf 1 3/4" thick aluminum plate setting around here for a year or so. My first step was to square up two adjacent sides using first the end, then the side of a 1" diameter end mill.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I then milled the third side to give an exact finished height of 2.5", milled one side away untill I had exactly 1.5" thick, and then drilled and tapped four #10-24 holes in the side that will ultimately be the base of the cylinder housing. Now I am ready to set the part up on an angle plate to machine the 0.950 hole thru it. I do it this way because I don't totally trust my Tilt a whirl vice to hold things truly square.