Can’t be much more to do before it runs! Looks good.
Doug
Straight 6 Cylinder Engine
- Thread starter Rdean33422
- Start date
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Doug
This has come together incredibly quickly, based on my very limited efforts. Nothing like experience to make the job go faster.... and smoother.
Lloyd
Lloyd
Thanks Doug
Not too much left but it will still take some time.
Thanks Lloyd that's very kind.
Ray
I decided to work on the exhaust next. The local hardware store has some 5/16" inside diameter tubing with a wall thickness of 0.014 that has a gold finish and kind of looks like brass. A 3 foot piece is $7.49 so you can tell it isn't high quality stuff but I fill the pipe with a low melting point metal before bending.
This is a my bender I made a couple of years back and works just fine.
All six pipes installed.
I also cut, sanded, stained, and finished a piece of poplar for the base.
It should be ready for tomorrow.
Thanks for looking
Ray
This is a my bender I made a couple of years back and works just fine.
All six pipes installed.
I also cut, sanded, stained, and finished a piece of poplar for the base.
It should be ready for tomorrow.
Thanks for looking
Ray
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Nice, Ray. What kind of ignition module are you using to drive through the distributer?
I use this module but with a different hall sensor for my distributor type models.
Thanks for asking
Ray
Thanks for asking
Ray
Lawn work this morning but I did get the engine mounted and 4 rubber feet mounted under the board.
Thanks for looking
Ray
Thanks for looking
Ray
Many things came together today and the cooling system is declared complete.
This is the cooling water header tank.
Installed the radiator and fan.
I hooked up the hoses and added some antifreeze.
Would you believe it there were no leaks.
The pump moves a good stream of water even at 600 rpms so we will see how it does keeping the engine cool.
The radiator fan is powered by a wall wart.
Thanks for looking
Ray
This is the cooling water header tank.
Installed the radiator and fan.
I hooked up the hoses and added some antifreeze.
Would you believe it there were no leaks.
The pump moves a good stream of water even at 600 rpms so we will see how it does keeping the engine cool.
The radiator fan is powered by a wall wart.
Thanks for looking
Ray
Ray, congratulations on a very nice looking inline six and supporting systems. Well done. (and quickly)
Chuck
Chuck
Thank you Chuck for the kind words. Now if it will run as good as it looks.
The fuel system is next.
Ray
The fuel system is next.
Ray
I attached a brass weight to the carb throttle arm so it would stay in the idle position. I added a brass bit to the idle adjustment screw so you could adjust it with your fingers. This is the same setup I used on the 4 cylinder model and it worked very well.
Sorry I only got a picture of the assembled gas tank. It is about twice the capacity of the tank on the 4 cylinder.
Getting very close now just the electronics left.
Thanks for looking
Ray
Sorry I only got a picture of the assembled gas tank. It is about twice the capacity of the tank on the 4 cylinder.
Getting very close now just the electronics left.
Thanks for looking
Ray
Thank you Minh
This is a piece of poplar that I am cutting out for the electronics box on the big router.
Sanded, stained, and finished with spray poly.
Here it is mounted to the board with an aluminum cover and a off/on switch.
Thanks for looking
Ray
This is a piece of poplar that I am cutting out for the electronics box on the big router.
Sanded, stained, and finished with spray poly.
Here it is mounted to the board with an aluminum cover and a off/on switch.
Thanks for looking
Ray
Yes it does run but there are some issues that I want to iron out first before the video.
The cooling system is working better than I expected except for the radiator fan. It is really wimpy so I have another fan on order.
Number 5 cylinder is not contributing anything it is just along for the ride. I may have to pull the head to see whats wrong.
The distributor drive gear is slipping on the cam shaft. I thought it was a tight enough fit and didn't need a set screw. Boy was I wrong.
The hall sensor was giving me a fit. Even though it is the same that I used on both of my 4 cylinder engines it would not work on this engine. The engine would start up and run for maybe 5 seconds and then the sensor was toast. I tries several different sensors and none worked for more than a couple of minutes. My friend had purchased the same number sensor but it was a Honeywell brand. That did the trick so far as we ran three tanks of gas through it today.
It may take a few days to get it all sorted but there will be a video.
Thanks for looking
Ray
The cooling system is working better than I expected except for the radiator fan. It is really wimpy so I have another fan on order.
Number 5 cylinder is not contributing anything it is just along for the ride. I may have to pull the head to see whats wrong.
The distributor drive gear is slipping on the cam shaft. I thought it was a tight enough fit and didn't need a set screw. Boy was I wrong.
The hall sensor was giving me a fit. Even though it is the same that I used on both of my 4 cylinder engines it would not work on this engine. The engine would start up and run for maybe 5 seconds and then the sensor was toast. I tries several different sensors and none worked for more than a couple of minutes. My friend had purchased the same number sensor but it was a Honeywell brand. That did the trick so far as we ran three tanks of gas through it today.
It may take a few days to get it all sorted but there will be a video.
Thanks for looking
Ray
I pulled the head today to see what was wrong with number 5 cylinder. I mounted the head on the valve test plate and applied 60 pounds of shop air. I expected that the exhaust valve was the culprit and needed some more lapping. But there were no leaks from either valve they were good. I checked for suction on number 5 cylinder and that was good also. After close inspection I noticed that the intake valve springs on number 5 and 6 cylinders were different from the rest. I had trouble finding the intake springs and had went to several hardware stores to purchase them. These two springs were much too stiff so I rummaged through all my junk drawers and found two that would work.
As long as I had the head off I made a new head gasket from the same material that I had used on many of my other models but not originally on this model. The suction on number 6 cylinder was not that great so I removed the piston and rod and replaced the o-ring on that cylinder.
The hall sensor is doing fine.
Well here it is.
There is still some tuning to do and I realized that I had never adjusted the ignition timing as it is till on TDC.
Thanks for looking
Ray
As long as I had the head off I made a new head gasket from the same material that I had used on many of my other models but not originally on this model. The suction on number 6 cylinder was not that great so I removed the piston and rod and replaced the o-ring on that cylinder.
The hall sensor is doing fine.
Well here it is.
There is still some tuning to do and I realized that I had never adjusted the ignition timing as it is till on TDC.
Thanks for looking
Ray
I use Colman fuel with a little bit of WD40 added.
I have used a slick sided card stock used for artist painting on all my models.
Thanks for asking
Ray
I have used a slick sided card stock used for artist painting on all my models.
Thanks for asking
Ray
A Great project .
Progress has been made quite quickly , 6 cylinders are like 1 cylinder : easy and always running
Thank you for sharing !
Progress has been made quite quickly , 6 cylinders are like 1 cylinder : easy and always running
Thank you for sharing !
- Joined
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Fantastic Ray, way to go!
A real gem of modeling. I'm a fan of open cranks and valve trains and looks great in Chevy orange.
Dave.
Dave.
