Werowance builds a webster

[Cogsy]

In general, methanol carbs are set to run much richer than gasoline for the same size engine. As you don't know the 'proper' setting for your engine yet, I'd shut the main jet fully off then open it 1/4 of a turn and try and start it. As it failed to start I'd open it up by no more than 1/8 of a turn at a time and keep trying. You'll hear it start to fire as it gets closer to the proper setting. Brian seems to have luck with these things running straight out of the box for him but I wouldn't count on having the same luck. For me, getting a new engine running is 95% fiddling with the carb settings until I get it right. Ignition just needs to be reasonably close and cam timing can be off quite a lot and it will still run. But carbs have to be adjusted properly.

 

[Mechanicboy]

I'm talking about same R/C carburator. Did you read i wrote i'm using gasoline? To adjust the amount of fuel is not same to run on methanol or gasoline in same engine when use same brand or size of the carburator. The fuel amount to mix in air is determined by contens of BTU in miscellaneous fuel. The Stoichiometric Fuel/Air Mixture: The gasoline/air ratio is 1:14,7 and methanol/air ratio is 1:6,4. Also the engine use much less gasoline than methanol. The setting is for methanol as you wrote this in former post: The first adjustment should be your idle speed. Set your throttle opening to 1.5mm open with the throttle arm pushed all the way towards the head of the engine. Next, set your low speed mixture to 1 3/4 turns out from bottom. Last, set your high speed mixture setting to 2 1/4-2 1/2 turns out from bottom. Carburator is my own design to run my engine.

 

[werowance]

sorry mechanicboy, I was just double checking. thanks for restating that you were using gasoline. the rest I gather is that you are using your own designed carburetor and you don't neceserily state what engine. in your last post.

 

[werowance]

now own to what I have found. when I rotate the engine, as viewed from the valve side and going clockwise.
when the exhust valve starts to open and then is fully open would be when the piston is at top dead center I guess on exhaust stroke. the exhaust valve is fully closed when the piston is at bottom dead center all the way out of the cylinder as far as it can go. - reading instructions and other things I feel like I have it backwards. but from what I think I know it should be opening about halfway up the exhaust stroke or a little more. ill try to get the wife to help me do a video. but for sure the valve is full on open at top dead center the piston all the way forward to the spark plug as viewed from valve side.

if this is exactly opposite. what do you all think about driving roll pins out and rotating 180 on the fly wheel ?

ill check back in a few. it will take me a long time from home to post a utube video

 

[werowance]

I hope this video works and to say my wife and I tried our best to get a good enough shot to show where the parts are for timing. please note the tappet is still adjusted low as part of last nights test however its probably less than .020 more like .010 if I had to guess. but as for showing if 180 out or not I think that little bit of clearance would not matter.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

See post #279" Keep on turning the engine in the direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve--it should begin to open just before the engine reaches bottom dead center, and should fully open and remain open until just before piston reaches top dead center. You don't want it to stay open past top dead center, or your engine won't pull fuel mixture in during the intake stroke."

 

[werowance]

Wich is oposite of what I have now. Agreed? Or agreed that mine is way off per awful video?

 

[Cogsy]

To me, it looks like you're turning the engine backwards in that video? So yes, the valve timing is exactly backwards. I'd say reverse the rotation of the engine and adjust your ignition timing to suit the new direction and see what happens.

 

[Mechanicboy]

How to set ignition timing and exhaust timing in the WEW model engine. This is my engine.
Ignition timing is beginning before TDC about from 2,5 and up to 5-10 degree and exhaust valve is opened 15 degree before BDC.

 

[Mechanicboy]

Werowance, you are starting the engine in fault direction of rotation. Start up the engine in other direction and the ignition set some degree before TDC.

 

[werowance]

ok, thank you. i will change rotation, adjust points cam and hopefully i can do this tonight and try again.

thank you.

 

[werowance]

ok, thank you. i will change rotation, adjust points cam and hopefully i can do this tonight and try again.

thank you.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Werowance--My engine is set up to run clockwise when the side with the valve block on it is closest to you. My reasoning for that is that I use my electric variable speed drill to start the engine. This means that the drill has a "starter spud" in the chuck, which engages directly with the end of the crankshaft. If I were to try and start the engine turning counter clockwise, the starter spud in the drill chuck will loosen itself in the chuck. If you have managed to drill the hole in your crankshaft 180 degrees out of phase, then yes, I think that by resetting the ignition timing it should run.

 

[werowance]

it now runs!!!! not great on first video but I did lean the high speed adjust down and it revs much higher. had to stop because the screws holding the head started getting loose and the Teflon thread paste started to give way on the carb. I have tightened the screws and locktighted the carb and carb adapter in before I try a third run. but yes the carb was way to rich. but did start and run on factory settings. leaning the high speed made it rev high but cant say on low speed screw adjustment until the lock tight dries and I can run again. fuel is brand new coleman fuel. rings are the cast iron store bought ones.

 

[werowance]

the video above was with factory carb settings no video yet after leaning it out on high speed adjust.
and wanted to point out that even the base was to hot to handle after I stoped it. it never stoped on its on. but it creates a lot of heat.

I did keep the oil hole lubed like an oiler would during run. just didn't show on video. cylinder oiler and mounted fuel tank come next now that I can confirm that it runs

 

[werowance]

and I want to thank everyone who chimed in and helped me. there is no way I could have done this without everyones help. I am sure some or most were getting very annoyed with me. but thank you for sticking in there with me and helping me have a runner. I really appreciate all those who helped and this forum.

 

[bmac2]

Werowance great stuff and welcome to the “holy crap I made a gas engine . . . and IT RUNS!” club.

 

[werowance]

this is my third successful. or maybe 4th. 2 steam woblers built together as a pair so really I call that just one. then Brians imperialized flame eater, and this one. failed on the bj cicada aero diesel engine and failed on my first steam engine about 10 years or better ago - using a craftsman 109 lathe back then. but yes. first 4stroke and it runs.... im pumped happy excited - first internal combustions ever....

 

[Mechanicboy]

If it get to hot to run, make a water jacket instead cooling fins on the cylinder. Then you run long time until the fuel is empty. My engine is water cooled.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Congratulations Werowance--You are now a duly certified member of the World Association of I.C. Engine Builders!!! You know the heartaches, the frustrations, and the absolute overwhelming joy that goes with successfully building and running an internal combustion engine. You've had a tremendous struggle, but you overcame many obstacles and have a runner. Well done!!!---Brian