Werowance builds a webster

[Brian Rupnow]

You will find that leaning out the hi speed jet does give you a much higher top end rpm, but the engine will puke and stall when going from idle to a higher rpm. Also--this engine in particular depends on the coolness (richness) of the mix going into the cylinder to be burned. Running at idle speeds, the engine runs cooler. Running at idle speed with the mixture not leaned out to the max makes it run cooler.

 

[werowance]

Good point on lean equals heat rich is cooler

 

[werowance]

Again thanks to everyone for helping and putting up with me

 

[Johno1958]

Congratulations Werowance she is a runner. Very nice.
Cheers
John

 

[werowance]

I post this for anyone else using this carb on this engine. It starts at factory settings however I need about 2/3 to 3/4 open throttle after prime in order to start and run. Using factory settings. I assume it’s to overcome flooding

Will post more once dialed in but want to share the throttle settings to others building

 

[awake]

Weworance, was the key problem the carb, or was it the valve timing, or both?

 

[Cogsy]

Congrats on a runner! I never doubted you'd get there in the end. They can be frustrating things but that makes it feel so much better when they finally do what they're supposed to.

 

[werowance]

Weworance, was the key problem the carb, or was it the valve timing, or both?

Timing. I was timing it backwards. It started and ran on factory carb settings

 

[minh-thanh]

Congratulations !

 

[awake]

I meant to add my congratulations along with my question! So ... congratulations!

 

[werowance]

last night I was thinking about the ignition system and making a box to hold it all. sort of a lunch box setup that holds battery, coil etc in it with a plug to goto the points and the sparkplug wire. kind of like I have seen Brian use with his engines. now I can use automobile wire connectors or banana plug style connectors at the points or similar but was thinking it would be nice if I could reduce the 2 wires to just one, Plus the spark plug wire.
I don't think its possible to reduce the number of points wires down to just one is it? one has to be chassis ground and the other is coil trigger ground. right? this idea probably wouldn't work but could you take the - batt in the picture and attach it to the coil itself on the - side? leaving on the -coil wire in the picture to have to have a banana style connector for?

then I started working on gas tank. I decided to try to re-use the one I made for my failed bj cicada engine. had to desolder the sump or tube pickup and shorten it so it wouldn't be to high to the carb. didn't get far with it last night picture is before I shortened the sump.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Your box which has the coil in it will have one wire from the negative side of the coil about 16" long coming out to a quick disconnect female end. There will be a separate wire coming out which is the hi tension lead and connects to the sparkplug. Roy Sholl at S&S Engineering sells small diameter hi tension wires with appropriate sparkplug boot attached. You can specify how long you want this wire to be. The other side of the coil + has a short wire leading to one side of a single pole single throw toggle switch (lighted) that mounts on your coil box. Another wire leads from the other side of this switch to your battery. (Make it about 36" long with an alligator clip on the battery end.) You will have a second wire about 36" long with an alligator clip on both ends. One end hooks to the negative side of your battery, the other to the frame of your engine. A final wire about 16" long is permanently attached to your ignition points. The other end of this wire has a male quick disconnect which is plugged into the female quick disconnect on the coil to run your engine.

 

[werowance]

Brian, yes that's pretty much how I have it now. in my picture the -batt I have circled would be the one with an alligator clip as you describe. I was just hoping I could somehow eliminate that all together. I don't think there is a way but thought I would ask. but yes putting an alligator clip for frame or chasis ground might be easier than doing 2 bananna style plugs (the round male / female disconnect plugs - I call banana plugs)

 

[Brian Rupnow]

One way to eliminate the ground wire is to build the coil box as a compartment that attaches to the underside of the engine base. You would still need the pair of wires that run to your battery--unless your battery also fit into the box. I use a 12 volt garden tractor battery, so for me this is not a possibility.

 

[werowance]

got the fuel tank made and mounted, got the wire plug connectors done so I can disconeect the coil and such and started on the cylinder oiler. Had to remake the muffler. my big fat hand broke it ... made the 2nd one a little thicker where it inserts into the head. used a smaller drill. couldn't tell any difference in the way it runs by reducing the exhaust hole.

 

[werowance]

on the cylinder oiler. I have some questions about dimensions as well as recommended procedure to machine it.

on machining, would you start with the drilling, boring and threading the inside threads from the top first then unchuck and flip around and use a die on the 10/32 threads as the last step? reason I ask is I worry that in brass the 10-32 die will wring the tip off since the holes are already drilled and such meaning there isn't enough stock to stand the twisting stress of the die? what do you think?

then on dimension, I don't see the overall length of the cup? or how to add it up from each step. I see the 2 .188 measurements but the rest of the body doesn't say. guess its not critical how long it is after the two .188 measurements but I would like to do it correctly. and what does the 2 big "F" symbols mean on this drawing?

 

[werowance]

oh, and almost forgot, on the coil, battery and switch etc - the box for it. I recall Dad having some metal ammo cans in the basement he used to keep plumbing pieces and bits n bobs in. I think an ammo can would be great to mount the coil and pieces in. then just open the top when ready to use. then when done roll up the wires and stuff them back in the box and close the lid. if I remember the lid even had a rubber gasket to keep it water tight. maybe a black wrinkle re-paint for it? will have to look around in the basement this weekend when I go to moms house and see if there are any still there.

 

[CFLBob]

what does the 2 big "F" symbols mean on this drawing?

It's saying there's a cross section view along the line between the F symbols are written that will be labelled as "F" or "F-F". It's the middle view in that drawing you show.

With a part that's turned, it's symmetrical around the center line, so there's really no sense doing that.

What I don't get is the same feature, the unthreaded portion on the bottom shows two different dimensions. 0.313 on the left, 0.375 on the F-F section.

 

[awake]

It's saying there's a cross section view along the line between the F symbols are written that will be labelled as "F" or "F-F". It's the middle view in that drawing you show.

With a part that's turned, it's symmetrical around the center line, so there's really no sense doing that.

What I don't get is the same feature, the unthreaded portion on the bottom shows two different dimensions. 0.313 on the left, 0.375 on the F-F section.

Clearly, this section must be turned as an ellipse, .313 along the minor axis and .375 along the major axis.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Ignore the .313 AF. Make the large diameter of the cup 3/4" long.