Werowance builds a webster

[werowance]

Brian, curious, is the 3/4 long just from experience or were you able to calculate it from the drawings? I ask for my own learning purposes so I know how to properly read plans if you were able to calculate it from the drawings

 

[Brian Rupnow]

The note above the part asks to counterbore a hole 0.562" deep. Just going on proportion alone, you see that the part must be more than .562" deep or the counterbore would cut the oilcup into two pieces. so--3/4" fits the requirements for the counterbore depth and looks about right. It is a non critical dimension. The drawing shows that the material below the depth of the .562" counterbore looks to be about 3/16". I add the 3/16" to the 9/16" deep counterbore and come up with 3/4".---Brian

 

[werowance]

ok, but it technically doesn't really specify 3/4 , you are just goin on gut and experience (which I value your experienced answer). yes I agree its not a critical dimension, was just agrivated that I couldn't figure it out. I thought I was supposed to be able to add something up and come to what it was supposed to be, like I couldn't read the drawings correctly. thank you again.

 

[Scott_M]

What I don't get is the same feature, the unthreaded portion on the bottom shows two different dimensions. 0.313 on the left, 0.375 on the F-F section.

I have not seen the plans or any other views, But that makes me think that feature is square, not round. It even looks bigger on the section labeled .375"

I'm not sure if it makes any difference, or if it is needed for clearance. Round would be easier.

Scott

 

[werowance]

after studying further I think the ff is to show a cross section that is not dead center of the cross section. sort of a zoomed in cross section view so to speak. I noticed that the cross section that should be exactly a half section had diaganol lines like \ \ \ drawn on the cut view whereas the ff cross section did not. I guess to denote zoomed or exactly a down the center cut view. at any rate I didn't get much done last night. drilled the holes bored to final inside size and went in and ate dinner and played with the grand baby for a little bit.

 

[JohnBDownunder]

Great build thread.
Plus, you got your priorities correct in playing with the Grandchild as they tend to grow up and your engine build will still be waiting for your attention tomorrow. Or the day after?
All the best,
John B

 

[werowance]

got the oiler cup made. got to use my new tool post grinder. I like it and it was cheap also compared to others. nice tight spindle. high speed. fit my axa tool post. I used it to grind the tip of the needle in the oiler. as for the oiler the plans called for a 4-40 shcs which I did not have any so I took a piece of scrap crs and knurled the top of it and then cut and die made 4-40 threads. then used the tpg to make the point. turned out nice.

visited my mom this weekend and sure enough a .50 cal ammo can was found in the basuement. the inside was a bit rusty but I think it will clean up good, hopefully will make a nice ignition coil and battery can.

 

[werowance]

still working on this rusty ammo can, my playsand for the sandblaster is just to wet to flow through my siphon feed blaster. I dried some in an old pot on the grill and decided to put some in a container spread out and put it inside my old farm truck to bake in todays heat to dry it out. also keeps the cats and animals etc out of it while drying it. don't want any surprise packages you know.... anyway I was thinking last night that the wrinkle paint isn't going to be a good choice for this because of the handles and latches. and since 1. I am truly color blind - green brown. 2. I have no sense of style or for what looks good until after I see it done by someone else who does. I thought I would ask what in your alls opinion would look like appropriate for the paint color? a few ideas I had were - flat black because I have some. industrial grey enamel, flat red and then dull aluminum bumper and steel wheel paint. would any of those look right for a carry around ignition box? the flat red came to mind thinking of an old wooden tnt or dynamite box like you see on western movies but then that I don't have good sense for what looks right came back to mind

anyway just asking for opinions to give me ideas. the box had to be stripped and repainted because of all the rust.

 

[Cogsy]

Personally I don't think ammo cans look right in any other colour than the original (dull) army green. Might just be me though.

 

[werowance]

i can do army green. but didnt know where i was converting it to an ignition box if it would still look right. but i guess in the end it will still look like an ammo can.

 

[werowance]

about to get the can cleaned up and mocked up the battery and coil location. im going to try to 3d print the top and bottom inserts to hold things in place. i will have to glue / screw the insert parts together. basicly the top and bottom insert will be identical. i will print risers or support stilts and screw/glue the top and bottom pieces together with about maybe 6 inches apart. i will then silicon glue the insert to the inside of the can. or at least this is what i hope to accomplish.

the 3 - 3d print images below are the 3 parts to make the top or bottom insert. my 3d printer bed isnt large enough to do the whole print as one.

now lets hope when i get home i have enough filament left to do the prints

 

[CFLBob]

That's an interesting idea - 3D printing the dividers/supports for the parts. Is that a printer you built or a store bought?

Like (I guess) a lot of us, I've been on the fence about buying one of those for a long time.

 

[werowance]

one I bought from a guy here at work. I work in I.T. so we sometimes trade computers and such around. in this case I bought for 100.00. its an xyz davinci jr. 1.0 3d printer. it does ok but I have some complaints about it. 1. you are tied to the filament from xyz because the "chip" the roll so you can only buy it from them. 2. the bed or print area is a little small. just under 6x6x6 inches. but for 100.00 us I really cant say I got cheated. they say there is even a laser engraver head for it but have not looked for or priced it yet.
ive made a few usefull things with it. one was an oil filter wrench. the kind like you use with a ratchet on the bottom of the filter kind of like a large socket.

 

[CFLBob]

That's one of the printers I've looked at a few times, but I didn't know about them chipping the filament like the way they chip printer inks.

Lately, I've been focused on the Creality Ender, like this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Ender-Aluminum-220x220x250mm/dp/B07BR3F9N6

Only I'd like to have one that could accommodate a laser scanner to make 3D models of some piece of metal I might need to copy. They're still pretty expensive.

 

[werowance]

That one looks nice. I thought the scanners were not part of the printer. just an external 3d scanner that puts it into a cad software - or converts the scan into an stl format? then you print the stl file? and I'm asking not saying because I have very little experience with 3d printing. just what little playing around I have had with mine is all.

 

[CFLBob]

It's probably not the cheapest way to get a scanner, but I remember seeing a da vinci printer that also had a scanner. I think it was this one. Quite a lot more than the other one. Also it says it takes 3rd party filaments.
https://smile.amazon.com/XYZprinting-Wireless-7-8x7-8x7-5-Upgradable-Filaments/dp/B01EY6OQXC

 

[awake]

Depending on what you want to scan, you might look into photogrammetry software - including some free/open source options. This type of software uses a series of pictures taken on any device to generate a 3d model - which is essentially what the scanners do, but in a somewhat more controlled environment.

 

[werowance]

some pictures of the 3 parts during print and the outcome. was thnking about doing an aluminum sheet metal skin for the top plate and glue it on then brass screws around the perimiter. thought that might look good and give it rigidity as well.

i did low infill so i didnt waste so much filiment. even at that each piece is very strong. the infill is where it does like a honeycomb effect for the innards of the prints.

first pic is the 3 pieces layed together

second is a pic during printing showing the honeycomb infill

 

[JohnBDownunder]

Hi Werowance,
Just a thought on the chip and filament spool. Is it possible to wind third party filament on to an empty spool? Or have they set it up somehow to recognise the amount used???? Winding filament would be a bit of fluffing about tho.
I detest printers of any variety that insist on only using their propriety brand consumables - (Which is likely where they make their money. Think Safety razors??|)
John B

 

[werowance]

you can get a little bit more out of re-using an empty spool sometimes but the chip some how has a counter in it that turns itself off after so much printing. my printer does have the older firmware where there is a hack using an android phone with nearfield communications to reset the chip. but the reset can only be done so many times per chip so I am told. and I don't have an android phone to try it. and I agree on the chips, the reason I was even able to afford my lathe/mill combo is where I used to sell and refill toner as a side buisiness. I used to on the really old toners reset the chips myself. couldn't go back to 0 but I could got to 1 page count with them but then they (Lexmark and HP) got to the point where you couldn't touch the chips.