tel
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hmmmm .... $10.45 from Hobby Mechanics
Wallaby
- Thread starter metalmad
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Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
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Im going to try this 1/8 brass welding rod out as my push rod material and see how it goes, seems very strong over the 71 mm im starting my rods at.
I may change this length and material if I decide to go for a higher compression by taking a scim off the head.
Pete
PS
Im rethinking the brass pushrods already, that did not take long --maybe stainless ;D
I may change this length and material if I decide to go for a higher compression by taking a scim off the head.
Pete
PS
Im rethinking the brass pushrods already, that did not take long --maybe stainless ;D
bezalel2000
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Hi Pete
I'm sure ETW recommended silver steel so the ends can be hardened - :noidea:
Found it.... see the drawing on 1st page - 19 April 1962
Bez
I'm sure ETW recommended silver steel so the ends can be hardened - :noidea:
Found it.... see the drawing on 1st page - 19 April 1962
Bez
Small and probably useless factoid re push rods.
Vincents had stainless steel push rods; the theory was that the ends which were highly loaded would work harden. The theory seemed to work out OK. You would need to choose a type of stainless that work hardens readily if you wanted to replicate this.
Of course, Vincent engines were a high camshaft design with relatively short push rods, not much like the Wallaby!
Vincents had stainless steel push rods; the theory was that the ends which were highly loaded would work harden. The theory seemed to work out OK. You would need to choose a type of stainless that work hardens readily if you wanted to replicate this.
Of course, Vincent engines were a high camshaft design with relatively short push rods, not much like the Wallaby!
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Thanks Dave Its coming along OK now but nothing more on the oil pump so far ;D
Have you started your Wallaby build log yet?
I'm really looking forward to it, You can count on it being my favorite th_wav
Hi Bez,
The Brass was just so pretty Rof}
Hi Bill
Thank you for that, I had forgotten that Stainless work hardens so nicely, I will try and get a Stainless welding rod tomorrow and try it out Thm:
Pete
Have you started your Wallaby build log yet?
I'm really looking forward to it, You can count on it being my favorite th_wav
Hi Bez,
The Brass was just so pretty Rof}
Hi Bill
Thank you for that, I had forgotten that Stainless work hardens so nicely, I will try and get a Stainless welding rod tomorrow and try it out Thm:
Pete
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What Method, There's a Method ??? ??? :big:
Today I turned up the spring holder for the distributor and bolted up the timing cover, this was done by turning up a firm fit bush for the crank/timing cover and then using a sharpend pin, the same size as the thru hole of the cover to make punch marks to be drilled.
Between the bush on the crank and the distributor /rotor button, the cover is held exactly where it needs to be for marking.
Pete
Today I turned up the spring holder for the distributor and bolted up the timing cover, this was done by turning up a firm fit bush for the crank/timing cover and then using a sharpend pin, the same size as the thru hole of the cover to make punch marks to be drilled.
Between the bush on the crank and the distributor /rotor button, the cover is held exactly where it needs to be for marking.
Pete
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Went to see the quack today and turns out I'm a diabetic with a low Thyroid, guess that explanes a few things.
Anyway I decided to remake the inner cover of the oil pump and made a fixture using the PCD feature on the mill DRO.
I did have a bit of a Hiccup after doing the holes in the cover, I used a 1/8 two flute to drill the blind hole, After I was done I pushed the down button instead of the up
oh: :redface2:
After indicating on the rod I left it in the cover during turning, That way you know its right if there is no wobble.
As expected the blind hole broke thru but I guess I can locktight a plug in or somethink, may not even need to do anything. Shown here with the oil punp gear boss.
Pete
Anyway I decided to remake the inner cover of the oil pump and made a fixture using the PCD feature on the mill DRO.
I did have a bit of a Hiccup after doing the holes in the cover, I used a 1/8 two flute to drill the blind hole, After I was done I pushed the down button instead of the up
oh: :redface2:After indicating on the rod I left it in the cover during turning, That way you know its right if there is no wobble.
As expected the blind hole broke thru but I guess I can locktight a plug in or somethink, may not even need to do anything. Shown here with the oil punp gear boss.
Pete
vcutajar
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Pete
Sorry to hear of the slight "oops" you had there, but as long as it's fixable than no worries.
From my experience of long projects, when I start seeing the light at the end of the tunnel (project completion), that's when I subconsciously want to rush things and usually the inevitable happens. So I start consciously slowing down and double and triple checking things.
Looking forward to see it running.
Vince
Sorry to hear of the slight "oops" you had there, but as long as it's fixable than no worries.
From my experience of long projects, when I start seeing the light at the end of the tunnel (project completion), that's when I subconsciously want to rush things and usually the inevitable happens. So I start consciously slowing down and double and triple checking things.
Looking forward to see it running.
Vince
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Hi Pete,
In regard to your pushrods it doesn't look like there is any adjustment on the rockers or the rods. Instead of having to remake them every time they wear or you change head gaskets or mill the head why not do like I did on the 5 cylinder radial I'm building, make the pushrods form 2 pieces and thread them together with a locknut. You can use this same method no matter what material you decide to make them from.
gbritnell
In regard to your pushrods it doesn't look like there is any adjustment on the rockers or the rods. Instead of having to remake them every time they wear or you change head gaskets or mill the head why not do like I did on the 5 cylinder radial I'm building, make the pushrods form 2 pieces and thread them together with a locknut. You can use this same method no matter what material you decide to make them from.
gbritnell
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Hi Vince
No amount of checking fixes stupid :big:
I have to relieve the timing cover a bit tomorrow so the gear fits, then I'm hoping to drill the hole in the sump for the other side of the gear boss to run in.
once that's done I guess I can drill and tap the pump mounting holes.
It really is getting close now ;D
Hi George
The hex Bush on the rockers have an off center hole and its simply a matter of turning the adjuster and locking it up to set, and I have a Stainless steel welding rod that I will try out if I find the brass wears excessively.
I have adjusted the rods a couple of times and they seem to work well, so we will just see how it goes I guess. Fingers crossed :big:
Thanks Mate
Pete
No amount of checking fixes stupid :big:
I have to relieve the timing cover a bit tomorrow so the gear fits, then I'm hoping to drill the hole in the sump for the other side of the gear boss to run in.
once that's done I guess I can drill and tap the pump mounting holes.
It really is getting close now ;D
Hi George
The hex Bush on the rockers have an off center hole and its simply a matter of turning the adjuster and locking it up to set, and I have a Stainless steel welding rod that I will try out if I find the brass wears excessively.
I have adjusted the rods a couple of times and they seem to work well, so we will just see how it goes I guess. Fingers crossed :big:
Thanks Mate
Pete
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Today I turned up a short bush to stand in for the oil pump gear boss.
This bush allowed me to install the gear and inner cover exactly where it needed to be, in order to mark out and drill the sump hole to suit the longer gear boss.
Now that the assembly is installed I'm ready to drill and tap the outer holes, so far so good, everything turns over nicely and has gone together like clockwork.
Pete
This bush allowed me to install the gear and inner cover exactly where it needed to be, in order to mark out and drill the sump hole to suit the longer gear boss.
Now that the assembly is installed I'm ready to drill and tap the outer holes, so far so good, everything turns over nicely and has gone together like clockwork.
Pete
