Powder paint for model engines

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Thanks Sparky---Brian
I will get you a couple pics side by side with brass later this morning. I will also look at the powder bag and see if there is a label on it with the part number. I was very pleased with the results BUT if I do more I would use the recommended base coat. Being translucent the brass powder shade depends heavily on the base.

Never tried it but I think one could fake chrome quite well also.
 
The powder I used was Prismatic Powders #4431 called "top brass" https://www.prismaticpowders.com/search/4431?

Here is the test piece of aluminum bar I did long ago next to a wheel of real brass.
brass.jpg


And here is the 1/4 aluminum plate of faked brass. All the other pieces are real brass. It is not as orange as the pic makes it appear, the florescent light makes the camera show colors a bit off. (the black top on the tripod is welded rectangular tubing powder coated also)
brass1.jpg


One thing with the brass powder, the thickness you apply changes the hue so experiment first on scrap. Also, the powder looks orange in the bag, not to worry, powders in the container look much different than when applied and heat cured.

Also, as you know, real brass tarnishes over time and gets darker. "Fake" brass done with powder coat does not fade. This has to be taken into account
 
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So--Yesterday I spent 12$ at Princess Auto and bought a pair of N95 masks and two pairs of nylon gloves. (I'm allergic to laytex). This brings my total investment to $525 Canadian dollars for my powder paint system. I'm not going to build a spray booth, but if necessary will make one from a large cardboard box. This is a lot of money, but still falls within what I make for two days of engineering work. I received notice yesterday that my powder paint gun and four or five different colors of paint had been shipped out of California by Eastwood. This will be a totally new venture for me, and I will report back on how well it works.---Brian
Ehhkts.jpg
 
It's different than painting, the overspray is dry. Your gun operates at very low pressure, the powder comes out "lazy". I doubt you will need a spray booth or box. The overspray falls straight down. A plastic drop cloth or similar for the floor is all I use. The mess is quite minimal.

Because of the static charge, the powder is attracted right to the part. This is why the minimal mess and very little powder used.
 
So--Yesterday I spent 12$ at Princess Auto and bought a pair of N95 masks and two pairs of nylon gloves. (I'm allergic to laytex). This brings my total investment to $525 Canadian dollars for my powder paint system. I'm not going to build a spray booth, but if necessary will make one from a large cardboard box. This is a lot of money, but still falls within what I make for two days of engineering work. I received notice yesterday that my powder paint gun and four or five different colors of paint had been shipped out of California by Eastwood. This will be a totally new venture for me, and I will report back on how well it works.---Brian
Emerald Coatings in Palmerston, ON has Caswell supplies for powder coating as well though they don't seem to have a large range of colours.
 
I powder-coated my last two engines. Gun and powder from Eastwood, I bought a used double oven cheaply from a couple that were remodeling their house. It's 220V, so I needed to put a plug on the cord so I could plug it into a 220V outlet in my shop. Powder doesn't like moisture so rather than use compressed air, I use a CO2 tank for the air connection. It doesn't need a lot of pressure to spray the powder.
 
Yesterday, my powder paint supplies from Eastwood in California arrived. Everything I ordered is there, very well packed in a cardboard carton.---I purchased a large toaster oven locally, as well as N95 paint masks and vinyl gloves. I dug around in my cabinets and found a good i.r. temperature gun that I had bought and used a few times and then put up on a shelf a few years ago. I plan on setting up a big cardboard box as a spray booth. I don't have anything pre-made to paint, but will probably take a couple of steel flywheels off one of my larger hit and miss engines for a "try out".
UJgUuD.jpg
 
Hint, it’s very important to have a clean surface, especially aluminum. If there was any oil on the part, make sure you degrease it. Sometimes it’s a good idea to prebake the aluminum part to bake off contamination.
I use large packing paper as a backdrop to catch the overspray, and if you keep it clean you can shake the paper back into a container and reuse it.
I have an old toaster oven for small parts, but I spotted a full size oven, with a bad cooktop, heading to the recycling and I grabbed it. It’s even big enough that I did a set of car wheels.
 

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