Horizontal Mill Engine From Kit

[zeeprogrammer]

Steve...thanks. I should have mentioned that I saw some of the dents just after adjusting the 4-jaw...prior to machining. So while I think the interrupted cut is something to watch for, I don't think it was the culprit here. I took another look at the 4-jaw. The dents (and damaged aluminum) were caused by the two opposing jaws used to keep the part center...not by the two jaws used to move the part over. In fact those edges look excellent. So I think a combination of too much force and rubbing the part across the jaws resulted in the problem.

I think I'll follow Marv's suggestion and have my wife clamp it. :big:

kvom: Thanks for that link. Nice idea. I also like seeing the collet block (and yes I bought some the other day).

Marv: 'hulkish'...nice :big: Took me a bit to realize what you meant by having my wife clamp the part. No good using either method (even though she has a fiendish pinch). I do like using the mill and have gotten much more comfortable with the edge-finder. I liked the last tip too...cutting off the arms...not so silly!

Thanks again all.

I'm thinking I may be doing some rotary table work soon...the eccentric arm and the reversing lever.

 

[mklotz]

I'm thinking I may be doing some rotary table work soon...the eccentric arm and the reversing lever.

An RT is good for the slot in the reversing lever although it can be done faster (and perhaps easier) by coordinate chain drilling and filing.

Since the eccentric arm has holes at the centers of each of its exterior radiused portions, it can be done very easily on a rounding over jig like the one I described a long time ago...

http://www.schsm.com/html/marv_klotz_38.html

I know. I know. Another tool to build. But engines are chock-a-block full of rounded-over bits. If you're in this for the long run, you need one of these or, better yet, Steve's excellent refinement of my clunky jig...

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=1996.msg16117#msg16117

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Marv (and Steve) the rounding over jig is a definite must make tool in my future. It's one of the niftier tools I've seen amongst the many nifty tools on this forum.

But as far as right now...no...for two reasons...

a: The High Road: I'm doing this in part for the next poor fellow who buys the kit and thinks that he/she should be able to follow the instructions.
b: The Low Road: Nah...won't say...I have such a great rep already...why ruin it?

Anyway...it's a no go tonight. In reading further...the operations require reaming in the mill. Well...if you've been following...I don't have short enough reamers or a tall enough mill. So it's off to the catalogs and internet...and choosing a different part to make in the meantime.

Darn it. I wish I hadn't already taken off the vise. :big:

Maybe now is a good time to mod the mill for bigger Z? I don't think that will help with the reamer issue though. But I don't know for sure.

 

[zeeprogrammer]

A quick look in Grizzly and Enco for 'short' reamers...well...if they're there...I didn't find them. What were these people thinking in putting together this kit? I can only think it's a good case of not remembering what they didn't know and didn't have.

Remember...this is the 2nd in a series of kits for what they call 'people who are new to machining'. So they shouldn't expect I have an extensive set of tools.

Hm..what to do? End-mill plunge? I wouldn't think that would work. Do what I did on the column and work up to a drill size? Risky. Hole won't be 'perfect'.

Rats. I will not recommend these kits to beginners. But give me a moment to think on this...

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Is it worthwhile to get some chucking reamers and cut them down for the mill?

I looked at what modding (raising) the mill would get...and I don't think it's enough. I've run into this mill/reamer issue enough times now that I need a solution.

 

[Deanofid]

Zee, years ago I had a different mill than I have now. It required the use of blind end mill holders, so a long reamer couldn't be passed through the spindle. I used a cut off wheel to shorten a whole set of reamers to use on that mill.

If you have some drill rod the right size, you can make what is called a "D" reamer. You have to drill your starting hole to very close to the finished size to use them, but they can be easily made to most any size you need, (diameter and length).

More info if you want it. Just say..

Dean

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Thanks Dean. I think that's the way I'm leaning right now. Get some reamers and cut them down for the mill. Like I said...I keep running into this...so maybe I'll get a set (or the ones I need). I've come across the D reamer a few times now...but I'm just not ready yet.

On a different note...I was thinking about Marv's suggestion about the collet and lathe. I don't think it'll work. Doesn't fit. It's just a mini-lathe...a 7x12. But I am wondering if a collet block would fit that Grizzly 10xsomething. That would be far into the future...but I like to dream.

 

[black85vette]

Zee, I cut down a couple of reamers also. Used a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut them down. Most of the holes I ream are not that deep even if I am doing the bushings for a crank shaft I don't need much. I left just enough shank for my drill chuck to hold.

 

[Deanofid]

Zee, do you have a piece of drill rod the same size as the hole you need to ream, or larger? If so, making a D reamer will let you get on with that part without having to wait on a reamer from a parts house.

Trust me when I say it is very easy to make. I understand you don't want to get into making complicated cutters at this time. A D reamer is honestly a 10-30 minute job, even for someone who's never made any kind of cutting tool. No indexing, no fancy tool edge geometry. Can be made with only a file and a cheap propane torch, but using a lathe and mill makes it even easier.

Dean

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Thanks black85vette. It helps to know.

Dean...no drill rod here. I haven't looked but I don't recall seeing it named as such from the houses I order from. Is there another name (and don't nobody suggest silver steel :big?

 

[joe d]

Zee

Speedy Metals stock Drill Rod, don't know if they have any Silver Steel :

(It's listed in the "tool Steel" section of their website)


Cheers, Joe

 

[mklotz]

CUT YOUR DAMN REAMERS DOWN!

For the likes of us, reamers are consumables. Though they can be sharpened, most of us haven't the tools or skills to do so and having it done is expensive.

If you need a long one in a size you've already circumcised, buy it when you need it.

Don't buy a whole set of short reamers, even if you can find them. You don't want to be buying tools for which you have no immediate need. Besides, your money would be better spent on a more useful set of over and under reamers.

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Quoting Marv: "CUT YOUR DAMN REAMERS DOWN!"

Agh! I heard that from here!

Thanks Marv. I have no damn reamers but I have some others (including some darn ones) that will do nicely ;D.

Thanks Joe. I've used SpeedyMetals before. I'll get some in my next order.

hm...preview is still a problem...so is 'Insert Quote'. But the 'Insert Quote' only seems to be a problem once I start a reply.

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Just got my latest issue of Model Engineer (vol 203, No 4361).
The start of a bad evening.
Article on the Stockport Vacuum Engine.
Has a brass drain cock handle.
That's right...you bend it.
Small diameter at the bend. Heat it. Bend it 90 degree. 90!
Well Robert...looks like I'm going to have to have another go at this.

Not related to the evening...the issue includes an article (Andy Stait) titled "How to be a model engineer in seven easy steps". It's not what it sounds like. Story of a person who had an interest in machining as a kid but couldn't develop that interest until well into adulthood (i.e. older kid)..and gave some tips on their perspective as a newcomer. Really struck me. One because that's much like my story but two because it sounded so much like this forum. The tips he gave. It was nice.

As for the rest of the evening...my laptop decided it could connect to my router...but not the internet. And MS is no help as much as they like to tell you they're helping. I'm a programmer and supposedly like technology...but I really detest new technology for the sake of new. 20 button washing machines should be outlawed. Hackers and virus generators should be jailed. No ifs ands or buts. I hate having my time wasted by others. Hm....on that note...I should stop wasting yours. Ta. Sorry. ;D

PS...I never did try to figure out how to program a VCR. This stuff should not be hard.

 

[Cedge]

CUT YOUR DAMN REAMERS DOWN!

Rof} Thm:

Steve
who was thinking the exact same thing

 

[mklotz]

CUT YOUR DAMN REAMERS DOWN!

I hope everyone understands that my shouting was due only to my exasperation and it should not in any way be construed as invective directed at Carl.

Modifying tools (and building tools, jigs, fixtures) is a given if you're going to be doing anything useful in a machine shop. Agonizing over grinding a special profile on a drill or treating a reamer to a bris is a waste of time. Just do it and move on.

Look at it this way... You've already had several occasions where you needed shortened reamers. You've had no situations where you needed the long shaft on the as-bought reamers. Clearly, shortening reamers will yield a set of tools you need at the expense of a set of tools you don't need. Should you ever need a long shaft reamer, they can be bought one at a time.

 

[black85vette]

As a side benefit of cutting them you end up with a useful bit of hardened rod that you can use for something else!

 

[vlmarshall]

As a side benefit of cutting them you end up with a useful bit of hardened rod that you can use for something else!

...like making D reamers. ;D

 

[mklotz]

As a side benefit of cutting them you end up with a useful bit of hardened rod that you can use for something else!

I'm not certain but I think you'll find that most (machine) reamers, like drills, have soft shanks. Only the tips are hardened. The soft shank is needed so that there is something for the chuck to get a grip on.

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Thanks Steve...or are you a doppleganger of Marv? ;D

Marv...I hope everyone understood that too. I certainly didn't take it any other way.

Just to be accurate though...I have used the reamers in question in the lathe.

Vernon..."Quiet you!"