steamin
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2009
- Messages
- 233
- Reaction score
- 141
I thought I would share a set-up with you for making long tapers on a milling machine.
Picture #1 shows the typical 5 sine bar being used to produce a very accurate angled surface for setting the work piece on to machine a very precise angle.
Picture #2 is a similar situation except in this case I did not have to calculate the angle in which the wood had to be set at to mill the sides.
First I want you to notice the 3/8 dowel pin that is in a piece of CRS. The original block had a complete 3/8 diameter hole reamed through. Then material was milled away to expose a portion of the hole. Then a 3/8 diameter hardened steel dowel pin was pressed in what was left of the hole. This left part of the 3/8 dowel pin exposed. Then the T slot width of the milling machine was measured. Then the opposite side from the dowel pin was machined down to within 0.005 of that dimension. The block was clamped in a vise with a 0.002 thick shim under one end of the dowel pin. The remaining stock of the block was ground away leaving a slight taper to the back side in relation to the dowel pin. Now when the block with the dowel pin is placed into the T slot, the dowel pin is wedged against the inside surface of the slot.
There are two of these blocks at 14-1/2 apart. This is the length of the required taper. The difference between one end to the other is 0.093. So a 0.093 diameter gage pin was placed between one 3/8 diameter pin and the straight. The end of the wood blank that is to be the narrowest was placed on the centerline of the 3/8 pin. After clamping the wood blank to the straight edge, the end mill was brought to the wood, the DRO was zeroed out and then the table was moved 0.093. Power feed was engaged and away we went. The clamps were moved periodically to keep the wood blank tight against the straight edge.
Now when it came time to do the opposite side, the 0.093 diameter gage pin was replaced with a 0.187 diameter gage pin. Then the same cutting procedure was performed as described above.
Picture #1 shows the typical 5 sine bar being used to produce a very accurate angled surface for setting the work piece on to machine a very precise angle.
Picture #2 is a similar situation except in this case I did not have to calculate the angle in which the wood had to be set at to mill the sides.
First I want you to notice the 3/8 dowel pin that is in a piece of CRS. The original block had a complete 3/8 diameter hole reamed through. Then material was milled away to expose a portion of the hole. Then a 3/8 diameter hardened steel dowel pin was pressed in what was left of the hole. This left part of the 3/8 dowel pin exposed. Then the T slot width of the milling machine was measured. Then the opposite side from the dowel pin was machined down to within 0.005 of that dimension. The block was clamped in a vise with a 0.002 thick shim under one end of the dowel pin. The remaining stock of the block was ground away leaving a slight taper to the back side in relation to the dowel pin. Now when the block with the dowel pin is placed into the T slot, the dowel pin is wedged against the inside surface of the slot.
There are two of these blocks at 14-1/2 apart. This is the length of the required taper. The difference between one end to the other is 0.093. So a 0.093 diameter gage pin was placed between one 3/8 diameter pin and the straight. The end of the wood blank that is to be the narrowest was placed on the centerline of the 3/8 pin. After clamping the wood blank to the straight edge, the end mill was brought to the wood, the DRO was zeroed out and then the table was moved 0.093. Power feed was engaged and away we went. The clamps were moved periodically to keep the wood blank tight against the straight edge.
Now when it came time to do the opposite side, the 0.093 diameter gage pin was replaced with a 0.187 diameter gage pin. Then the same cutting procedure was performed as described above.