American LaFrance Steam Fire Pumper

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I get it, now.
Thanks for the explanation.
Very nice build.
Regards,
Giovanni
 
Larry this is a fascinating build, it is like picking up a very good book and not being able to put it down until the end. I started reading late last night and started again first thing this morning, and have just finished.

I had intended to make an early start in the shop, in order to finish the back plate to mount my 4 jaw, but I was so engrossed by your build, my own took a back seat.

That is the problem with this forum, there are so many distractions, (although I hesitate to call interesting projects a problem) it’s a wonder anyone gets anything done
I love the quality of your work, your attention to detail, inventiveness, and the fact that you wont accept a part which may have taken hours to build, if you don’t think it is up to par. I should take another lesson here, along with the useful techniques I have absorbed Keep up the excellent work. I will be checking to make sure you don’t slack.

Cheers Les. :bow:
 
Les, I humbly thank you for your kind comments. I am so glad that you are able to glean something from my thread as well as all the other fine projects that are being presented here. It is with God's Grace that I am able to do what I do. He is the one who deserves all the credit.


 
Good Afternoon, Well I started on the mounting brackets for the feed water tank and have mounted it to the frame. I still have some tweaking and tuning to do, but overall I think it will work. So, while I was mounting the tank I decided to put together everything I have made to date to get an overall feel as to where I am at. So I put on my elevator music and had at it. Another reason for the total assembly was so the person who is going to do the pin stripping can get an overall feel of the scope of the project.

Picture #1 & #2 show the mounting of the feed water tank.
Picture #3 & #4 are overall left and right side views.

Once again, I must say I do appreciate the comments and support. This is an awesome forum and I am enjoying all the other fantastic builds that are taking place around the world.

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I had a chance to spend some hours in Plant #1 (my workshop) over the past few weeks working on the brake rigging. The transfer levers were made from 0.032" thick brass sheet stock. Small bushing were turned and held in place with 2-56 brass screws for the soldering process. The ribs between the bushings are made from 0.062" diameter brass rod.
Picture #1 shows the front and backside of the rear transfer lever.
Picture #2 is an overall view of the left side brake rigging thus far.
Picture #3 is a close-up of the first reach rod.
Picture #4 is a close-up of the second reach rod to the rear transfer lever.

Thanks again for your viewing and support.

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Sunning workmanship Sir. I look forward to seeing more.

David
 
Fellow HMEMr's do NOT be fooled by this guise, trust me, this is NOT a 'Pumper', carefull study shows that this is actually a replica of a mobile out-of-Kentucky Moonshine still! :big:

Seriously though, thanks for inspiring a lot of us! :bow:

Chazz

 
Ahhhh shucks Chazz, you found me out. I guess I will have to share my product or be turned over to the revenuers !!! :big:

Thank you for the chuckle and to all of you for your kind comments.
 
Hey Steamin,

FABULOUS WORK!!!! :bow: :bow:

Are those brake levers silver soldered or soft soldered?

Curious.....the camera leaves me to think it's soft....just curious about technique here.

I assume from the picture that they are 6 pieces?...fabb'd together?

Dave
 
PS...those revenuers won't stand a chance against the steam lance! ;D


Add that to the build.........if you haven't seen the movie "The Sand Pebbles" you should. ;D

Dave
 
Hi Dave, yes I have seen "Sand Pebbles". It is a classic for sure.

Yes the brake lever in the picture was made from six pieces and soft soldered together using Eutectic 157. It is a lead base solder with tin in it. The flux is in liquid form. It is great stuff. I have been using it for over 50 Years. This particular assembly only needed my soldering gun to heat and solder the assembly. Sometimes I need to break out the big soldering iron for larger assemblies.

The main body of the lever was laid out and holes drilled and tapped for 2-56 screws. The 3 bosses were tuned to size and a clearance hole drilled for the 2-56 screw. The bosses were then attached to the main lever body using brass 2-56 screws. The rods between the bosses were cut and filed to length to give a oh so ever slight press fit to keep them in place while soldering. After a good cleaning, I use my filing machine to file up to the bosses and file to the scribed lines from the initial layout. Then the holes are opened up to their respective size requirements.
 
steamin said:
Hi Dave, yes I have seen "Sand Pebbles". It is a classic for sure.


Always the indication of a fellow steam nut! ;D

thanks for the explaination!



Dave

 
Larry,
Very nice work I have been enjoying watching.

I had to chime in on the mention of the "Sand Pebbles". Yes it is a great movie no doubt but as good as the movie is it does not hold a candle to the book by Richard McKenna. It is in the Classics of Navel Literature series. The attention to detail in the book draws you right into the action in the engine room of a Naval Gunboat.

Dan
 
Not a problem Sir Dan. I just wish I was into sitting and reading good books. I was never one to do so. I guess I have always been to busy making things.

Anyway, I just have to share this. The L.R.D. No. 4 Engine (Laurence Russell DuFour) now has an "Official" name. It is now to be called the "Karen Lynn". (see picture)

Naming an engine was a customary thing to do back when these style of engines were being built. Sometimes it was named after a town officials daughter, local folk hero or some ones grandmother. In my case it is after my soul mate of 45 years this coming August 7th. She is a very special lady in deed !!!

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More bits and pieces. The first picture shows all the brass pieces needed to fabricate the large rear brake lever. Picture #2 (side to face out board) and #3 (side to face in board) shows the pieces clamped together and ready for soldering. Picture #4 shows the lever in place with the linkage to the rest of the brake rigging. Some of the original engines had cable and pulley systems to apply the brake shoe to the wheel tire. The American LaFrance engine on display in North Charleston, SC has brake drums and shoes with a cable system to the foot pedal.



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Thanks for that Larry...being able to conjure up the setup and components for that is a very worthwhile and valuable talent! Thank you for sharing that!

Dan....If I can get a copy, I'll have to read it.....but you can't watch a young and fetching Candice Bergen if you do that! ;D

Dave
 
Just had to add some color to some of the brake rigging. All done with making levers. yeh ! Now I need to taper pin them to there respective shafts. Right now I am using Valspra spray paint. It does not dry as quick as Krylon, but when it has several days to cure out, it is tough as the proverbial nail. I like it so far.

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Greetings, I have transported the LaFrance/Karen Lynn on several occasions on the back seat of our car. One time I even bought a big tub and packed a lot of towels around it to protect, so I could take it to a model show. I need to transport the engine to various painters to get some quotes for the pin stripping before I do another complete tear down. I want the painter/artist to see the whole thing together to get a feel of what he is working on.

So the project has taken a left turn and is going down another path. A transport case is in order. To firm up the overall dimensions I had to turn my thoughts to the draft gear, horses and harness rigging. The draft gear is very nicely laid out in the drawings and I have cut some red mahogany to size for the wood components. Some of the various plates have been cut out and rivet holes drilled. This can be seen in picture #2. Picture #1 shows the relative position of a 1/6 scale plastic horse to the engine. The horse was procured from ebay. It is an old Marx Johnny West series horse form the late 1960s. I will need two more because this engine was large enough to require a team of 3 horses running abreast of each other.

So with the general layout, I have determined that the carry case will be 14"wide x 52" long x 18" tall. All inside dimensions. I unburied some old 1x rough sawn heart pine that was in my wood pile that came out of a tobacco barn in Nash County, NC. After some initial planing, re-sawing and more planing, I now have a nice stack of 3/8" thick boards to make my carrying case. The boards come complete with knot and nail holes. Picture #3.

Finding someone to make the harnesses and bridle gear has been some what of a challenge. I have yet to find anyone interested in working with me on a 1/6 scale basis. I did run across a neat you tube clip last night that shows a lot of still pictures of steam fire engines with their horses. There are some great shots of the harness and bridle assemblies. Simplicity seemed to be the key for hitching up the horses and getting to the scene of the fire. Anyway, here is the link to the video, enjoy:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWGZdMT2dI4[/ame]

Basic game plan:
1] Buy 2 more horses, clean up the mold seams and let my daughter paint the horses with an airbrush.
2] Make my own leather harnesses and bridles.



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