putputman
Senior Member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2008
- Messages
- 600
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Geo, that photo of your valve seat cutting tool tells it all. With the undercuts at the pilot and angle assures that you will get a good sharp valve seat. The pilot, angle, & shank can all be cut in one set up that will result in a zero TIR.
I am building a small single cylinder engine with a 3/8 bore that will require two valves and a spark plug in a small area. Plan to use a couple of hardened Royal Punch Pins for the valves. They have a 60 deg (120 included) angle head. The pins are manufactured by swaging the heads, consequently leaving a parting line, or seam, or ridge, on the angled surface. If I can grind that surface true, I will use them. I would then make a valve seat tool, using your design to match the valve.
Thanks for the post.
I am building a small single cylinder engine with a 3/8 bore that will require two valves and a spark plug in a small area. Plan to use a couple of hardened Royal Punch Pins for the valves. They have a 60 deg (120 included) angle head. The pins are manufactured by swaging the heads, consequently leaving a parting line, or seam, or ridge, on the angled surface. If I can grind that surface true, I will use them. I would then make a valve seat tool, using your design to match the valve.
Thanks for the post.