Swifty's build of Nemett Lynx

[Swifty]

Gus, don't shut the mill off each step, rig up the indicator somehow on the quill, there must be some easy way of mounting one.

Pete, thanks for following along, the metre length of cast iron bar was a nice score.

No progress today on the engine, I'm going fly fishing tomorrow and needed to get a new fly line, and of course that was followed with a new fly reel, hopefully will get a couple of trout to make it worthwhile.

Paul.

 

[gus]

Gus, don't shut the mill off each step, rig up the indicator somehow on the quill, there must be some easy way of mounting one.

Pete, thanks for following along, the metre length of cast iron bar was a nice score.

No progress today on the engine, I'm going fly fishing tomorrow and needed to get a new fly line, and of course that was followed with a new fly reel, hopefully will get a couple of trout to make it worthwhile.

Paul.

Please post catch or Fisherman with New Fly-Rod and Reel.

 

[Swifty]

Please post catch or Fisherman with New Fly-Rod and Reel.

Will do my best Gus.

Paul.

 

[Swifty]

Please post catch or Fisherman with New Fly-Rod and Reel.

Gus, this is for you, no picture of me holding fish as they weren't cooperating, but I have included a picture of the new fly reel.
We can only fish enclosed waters at the moment as the rivers are shut for the spawning season.





Paul.

Edit, don't know why the pictures come out upside down, look fine in photobucket. I rotated the pics in photobucket and re pasted the link, but they still come out upside down.

 

[gus]

Gus, this is for you, no picture of me holding fish as they weren't cooperating, but I have included a picture of the new fly reel.
We can only fish enclosed waters at the moment as the rivers are shut for the spawning season.





Paul.

Edit, don't know why the pictures come out upside down, look fine in photobucket. I rotated the pics in photobucket and re pasted the link, but they still come out upside down.

This Fly-Reel cost a bomb. There are no fly-fishing spots in Singapore,
Fly-Fishermen have to book trips to Australia,New Zealand etc.
Mongolia is good for fly-fishing but trips there cost an arm and a leg.

Not happy with the first con-rod as cranking is not smooth. Big end bore was taper and needle bearing got mis-align. You will laugh how I got around it.
Bored the big end on the lathe.Four jaw won't take it . Used the three jaw to hold con-rod blank.Very odd way of job holding. The lathe is best and fastest to reduce bar thickness. End Milling will take ages. Happy with results. Will finish off con-rod next Monday.Its weekend fishing.

 

[Swifty]

This Fly-Reel cost a bomb. There are no fly-fishing spots in Singapore,
Fly-Fishermen have to book trips to Australia,New Zealand etc.
Mongolia is good for fly-fishing but trips there cost an arm and a leg.

Actually the reel was on special, $80 off. I have been to New Zealand on several fly fishing trips, including being taken by helicopter to the back country and being left at a hut on the river for several days.

Paul.

 

[gus]

Actually the reel was on special, $80 off. I have been to New Zealand on several fly fishing trips, including being taken by helicopter to the back country and being left at a hut on the river for several days.

Paul.

My very first fly fishing was disastrous. Using my own DIY flies ,I did attract some Tilapias to the surface but they just won't bite. Flies here cost too much.
I have no other flies to present so called it a day.

Went back to resort hotel room,the ceiling fan ate my line and rod tip.

Was in Yellow Stone Park,USA. The rivers there are fly country. So many fly shops selling wide range of fly equipment which I could afford to buy as they were top range.When the season is on, the fish bite like crazy.

Did try crappy fishing.My USA boss landed 30 and Gus one. Bait was minnows.This was in 1977. Long time ago when Gus was 33 and a budding manufacturing engineer training in Campbellsville,Kentucky.Gave fly fishing a miss.

 

[Swifty]

I turned a piece of brass to do a trial run of the cams. My final intention is to cut the 2 cams on the one piece of material with the correct degree of rotation between them. The trial looks ok, of course I haven't filed the burrs off or smoothed out the machining, I just have to check that I have offset the lobes to the correct orientation.



Paul.

 

[doubletop]

Swifty That looks great. So we'll be seeing a set of cams by the end of the weekend? Pete

 

[Swifty]

Hi Pete, while I have the rotary table set up on the mill, I will be following on with making the real cams, I just hope everything goes well with it.

Paul.

 

[Swifty]

Looks like I have the offset between my cams incorrect, the rear cam should be 180 degrees around from where it currently is. That's an easy fix on the final article.

Paul.

 

[gus]

Looks like I have the offset between my cams incorrect, the rear cam should be 180 degrees around from where it currently is. That's an easy fix on the final article.

Paul.

Hi Paul,

Please take and post fotos of your cam cutting.

Had a great day fishing. Caught in a mini storm. No sweat at all in sheltered
inland waters. See my post.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Swifty--I made my cams that way on purpose, to reverse the rotation of the engine. I use my variable speed electric drill for a starter, and if I turn the engine counterclockwise like Malcolm planned it, the chuck loosens off the drive spud in the drill.---Brian

 

[Swifty]

Well fellers, after much winding of the mill table handle and of the rotary table, I now have a finished cam. I machined my two cams on the one piece, I thought that this would eliminate the need to get the correct angle of rotation, and it also gives me a greater bearing surface to loctite the cams to the shaft. Sorry about the picture overload, but I thought it best to show as much as possible.

First pic is the setup.


Here we have the first cut down to depth.


And the first cam finished.


And both cams finished.


Close up of the two cams.


Cams mounted on the shaft.


And cams mounted in the cam box.


Paul.

 

[Swifty]

Gus, I seem to recall that you don't have degree markings on your home made rotary table, so this method of machining the cams, that is described in the build article, may be difficult. But here is a run down on how I machined both cams in the one piece. You need to set your rotary table to the angle shown at the top of the left hand column, touch the top of the blank and mill down 2mm. From here you have to rotate one degree and move the quill up to the reading shown, then take a cut across, repeat by rotating one degree at a time, and moving the quill up to the corresponding reading. When you come to the bottom of the figures on the left hand column, you will have one flank of the cam cut. Next step is to machine the other flank, this is what the right hand column is showing. Back your table away from the cutter, rotate to the angle shown on top of the right hand column and move the quill up to the figure shown. Machining is a similar process to the first flank, except the quill is bought down to the readings this time. When you reach the bottom of the right hand column you will be back to your zero reading. Leave the quill at this reading and take cuts across the cam at one degree rotations until you reach the angle shown on the top of the left hand column, your initial starting point.

To machine the other cam, you will need to subtract 105 degrees from the figures shown in the tables, and move on in one degree increments from there. This will ensure the correct angle between the cams.

For the cam blank, just machine it with a 7mm gap between the two lobes, this will give you 13mm centres between the cams.

Paul.

 

[gus]

Gus, I seem to recall that you don't have degree markings on your home made rotary table, so this method of machining the cams, that is described in the build article, may be difficult. But here is a run down on how I machined both cams in the one piece. You need to set your rotary table to the angle shown at the top of the left hand column, touch the top of the blank and mill down 2mm. From here you have to rotate one degree and move the quill up to the reading shown, then take a cut across, repeat by rotating one degree at a time, and moving the quill up to the corresponding reading. When you come to the bottom of the figures on the left hand column, you will have one flank of the cam cut. Next step is to machine the other flank, this is what the right hand column is showing. Back your table away from the cutter, rotate to the angle shown on top of the right hand column and move the quill up to the figure shown. Machining is a similar process to the first flank, except the quill is bought down to the readings this time. When you reach the bottom of the right hand column you will be back to your zero reading. Leave the quill at this reading and take cuts across the cam at one degree rotations until you reach the angle shown on the top of the left hand column, your initial starting point.

To machine the other cam, you will need to subtract 105 degrees from the figures shown in the tables, and move on in one degree increments from there. This will ensure the correct angle between the cams.

For the cam blank, just machine it with a 7mm gap between the two lobes, this will give you 13mm centres between the cams.

Paul.

Thanks. Will be next week cam cutting. Now fighting a mild flu. In a way crippled but bored/reamed the timing gears and spacers for the crankshaft.
Will spent next week tooling and cutting cams.

 

[AussieJimG]

That's a great post Swifty, and the cams came out well.

Jim

 

[Swifty]

Thanks Jim, I think that I will heat treat the cam today. The surface came up well with a bit of work with fine wet and dry paper. I have started on making the valves now.

Paul.

 

[gus]

Thanks Jim, I think that I will heat treat the cam today. The surface came up well with a bit of work with fine wet and dry paper. I have started on making the valves now.

Paul.

Are you case-hardening it ? Thought of using ''Grade 5'' Hex Bolt to cut cam and heat treat plus oil quench. ''Grade 5''is just machineable with my Sakai and HSS cutters.

 

[Swifty]

I made the cam out of silver steel, I am actually thinking about trying to flame harden it by spinning it in the lathe, applying a quick heat to the lobes and quenching it. This way only the lobes will be hard and the rest will stay soft, but I may have trouble getting enough heat quick enough. I use to send out work to a dedicated flame hardening business years ago, the flame was followed directly by a water quench.

Paul.