raveney
Well-Known Member
Water Barrel
I made a large compass to sweep the curvature that I thought looked good for a quarter scale barrel. Used a bandsaw to cut the curves about 3/16 wide out of a 1x6 oak board that I had leftover. I then made a jig to cut 7-1/2 degree angles on each side of the staves. I chose to use 24 staves, so 360/24=15 degrees. I then used painters tape, and then several radiator hose clamps to hold the barrel into shape.
Everything looked okay so I ripped down some 1/4 wide strips of galvanized 12 gauge that I had out of the scrap bin. Draw filed the edges smooth and drilled, riveted the ends to form 6 hoops. I kept having problems making the last end hoop stay on, and it turns out that the barrel stave profile shouldn't have been a curve like I did. I filed more of a taper on the ends and that worked okay. I also had to sort out the staves and mark several that had a fatter end and alternate those with several that had narrower ends. This made the barrel straighter. Next I charred the inside with the torch and soaked it with water to swell all the joints.
It wasn't perfectly round so I clamped it in the mill and bored the ends to fit the head piece. I water tested it, and reset all the hoops several times, but it still leaked. Turns out that white oak is the correct material to use, and not red oak because it is way to porous. Sealed the inside with shellac and now its tight enough for this job. I really enjoyed doing this, but sure wish I had used better wood. I rubbed teak oil on the outside and it looks properly aged to go along with the patina of the engine.
Started the suction and discharge piping using PM research cast brass fittings and heavy wall 5/16 pipe. I think it still needs those cool looking pulsation dampers. I also have to make the priming cup and valve.
Happy New Year!!
I made a large compass to sweep the curvature that I thought looked good for a quarter scale barrel. Used a bandsaw to cut the curves about 3/16 wide out of a 1x6 oak board that I had leftover. I then made a jig to cut 7-1/2 degree angles on each side of the staves. I chose to use 24 staves, so 360/24=15 degrees. I then used painters tape, and then several radiator hose clamps to hold the barrel into shape.
Everything looked okay so I ripped down some 1/4 wide strips of galvanized 12 gauge that I had out of the scrap bin. Draw filed the edges smooth and drilled, riveted the ends to form 6 hoops. I kept having problems making the last end hoop stay on, and it turns out that the barrel stave profile shouldn't have been a curve like I did. I filed more of a taper on the ends and that worked okay. I also had to sort out the staves and mark several that had a fatter end and alternate those with several that had narrower ends. This made the barrel straighter. Next I charred the inside with the torch and soaked it with water to swell all the joints.
It wasn't perfectly round so I clamped it in the mill and bored the ends to fit the head piece. I water tested it, and reset all the hoops several times, but it still leaked. Turns out that white oak is the correct material to use, and not red oak because it is way to porous. Sealed the inside with shellac and now its tight enough for this job. I really enjoyed doing this, but sure wish I had used better wood. I rubbed teak oil on the outside and it looks properly aged to go along with the patina of the engine.
Started the suction and discharge piping using PM research cast brass fittings and heavy wall 5/16 pipe. I think it still needs those cool looking pulsation dampers. I also have to make the priming cup and valve.
Happy New Year!!
