PIP 3 Cylinder Radial

[LuvToFish]

I’ll prolly just use low temp solder when I get to this. It requires less heat and the capillary action does its thing. I’m currently building an arbor for my Quorn T&C grinder. I have a new 46 grit cup wheel I’m going to use to rough the fin cutting bit from a 3/8’s hss blank. I have fine grit wheels mounted on arbors but they load up pretty quickly when taking off a lot of material.

well so far, I still have 4 cylinders in play

 

[michael-au]

well so far, I still have 4 cylinders in play

And they are looking very nice, this is the hardest part of the build so many different setups

 

[michael-au]

Got the throttle barrel made, First step was to turn it to size and then drill a 2.5mm hole and then tap for a 3mm hex bolt then I put it in the 4th axis because I didn't want to setup the dividing head
So I didn't have to worry about the angel difference between the venture and the slot, after the milling was done I then parted it off and then drill the 1/8" hole in the other end

The weather is cold at the moment, not that good for being outside (hate winter)










Still need to do a dit of sanding work on the carb body to take the marks out of it

 

[michael-au]

I didn't mention this before but I had a lot of trouble with the big end bearing (threading it)
I made a bout 4 of these and everyone came out with a tapered thread on it, I could not work out why this was happening, I threaded it before drilling the hole so it would not collapse because it is very thin walled
I tried opening the die a bit but nothing I tried worked they were all tapered after threading
In the end I threaded it on the cnc lathe and it was fine

You might want to thread it on the lathe first

 

[LuvToFish]

Got the throttle barrel made, First step was to turn it to size and then drill a 2.5mm hole and then tap for a 3mm hex bolt then I put it in the 4th axis because I didn't want to setup the dividing head
So I didn't have to worry about the angel difference between the venture and the slot, after the milling was done I then parted it off and then drill the 1/8" hole in the other end

The weather is cold at the moment, not that good for being outside (hate winter)


View attachment 157833View attachment 157834

View attachment 157835

View attachment 157837View attachment 157838


View attachment 157836
Still need to do a dit of sanding work on the carb body to take the marks out of it

Wow! Looking awesome Michael. Very nice! It’s the hottest part of the summer here but luckily, it’s been quite mild compared to normal. That will change though as July is July and it’s always a bear here.

 

[LuvToFish]

I didn't mention this before but I had a lot of trouble with the big end bearing (threading it)
I made a bout 4 of these and everyone came out with a tapered thread on it, I could not work out why this was happening, I threaded it before drilling the hole so it would not collapse because it is very thin walled
I tried opening the die a bit but nothing I tried worked they were all tapered after threading
In the end I threaded it on the cnc lathe and it was fine

You might want to thread it on the lathe first

Thanks for the tip! I assume you’re referring to the main bearing with the threaded OD? My lathe does single point threading quite well usually.

 

[michael-au]

Thanks for the tip! I assume you’re referring to the main bearing with the threaded OD? My lathe does single point threading quite well usually.

Yep that's the one

 

[petertha]

Was the bearing threading required for assembly somehow or in order to more easily replace it on day?

 

[michael-au]

Was the bearing threading required for assembly somehow or in order to more easily replace it on day?

It has to be that way to be able to get the master rod in, there is no way to get the rod on the crank with the bearing in it, has to be screwed after the rod is on the crank