Philip Duclos "Odds N Ends" hit and miss engine

[canadianhorsepower]

I found a little time this afternoon (actually quite a bit of time) and made the top for the waterjacket. Since I opted to have a "tail" on my waterjacket to fill up the gap between the sideplates, there was no way I could fit the waterjacket into my 4 jaw on the lathe to do the stepped bore for the water container. Not a big problem. I'll do the bore for the water container part of the water jacket on my mill, and Loctite the top on as a seperate piece. Since I had the 4 jaw chuck on my lathe anyways, I decided the top should have a 3/16" long x 1.75" diameter projection on it to fit inside the bored hole--all the more for the Loctite to hold onto.

great work Brian,
you can use GREEN loctite for that application
or if you go to a GM dealer they have Gasket eliminator it's red but 4 time the thickness of red loctite.
or go to a professional motorcycle shop that does two stroke their is a produck call crankcase glue
it's use to assemble crankcase of motorcycle or snowmobile work awsome

cheers

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Thanks Luc.--I am going to use green Loctite #638. I have things turned to a point where it is soooo close--I don't dare take any more off. I miked the inside bore of my waterjacket 9 different places, and took an average of my readings. The average says 1.384. I have the o.d. of the cylinder setting right at 1.386. I'm afraid to take any more off, because the next thing I do the damn cylinder will FALL into the bore. I have to do a final ream of the cylinder i.d. and then its showtime.---Wish me luck!!!---Brian

 

[starnovice]

Brian,
I have read all of your threads. It is really amazing how far you have come in this hobby. I always learn a lot from your work.

Thank you
Pat

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I got this far and chickened out. Well actually, I decided that discretion is the better part of valour!! The cylinder is finished inside and out, and looks good but I decided not to press it in here. I have to go to one of the small shops tomorrow that I do engineering work for, and they have a hydraulic press. All I have here to press with is my old vice, a manual arbor press, and my redneck favourite, the 6 pound hammer and anvil. It might slip right into place easy, but then again it might hang up half way in like the Kerzel engine I built. If it hangs up part way, thats really bad Mojo because its going into a blind hole, and can't be pressed out again from the other side. I will use their hydraulic press and lots of Loctite tomorrow.

 

[Shopguy]

Brian
You might consider heating the block and chilling the cylinder liner. Quite a common practice for fitting dry liners in full scale diesel engines.
Your project certainly looks good so far.
Ernie Johnson

 

[petertha]

... consider heating the block and chilling the cylinder liner....

I was wondering the same myself. But in this type of application, would you still be able to use locktite/metal adhesive between the 2 parts? I'm wondering if the elevated temperature might 'set off' the adhesive before the liner is fully in its final position? I guess it's all about their fit & insertion timing. I see a lot of model cylinders are constructed this way, but the way they are stuck together sometimes varies.

 

[cfellows]

So, I'm wondering if Loctite is even required? If you have an interference like this, isn't all the Loctite going to be just be scraped off when you press in the cylinder liner? Not that it will hurt anything to use Loctite. And, the Loctite might act as a lubricant to help press the liner home.

I guess all I did was confuse the issue, huh?

Chuck

 

[cfellows]

By the way, I normally do this by making the head end of the water jacket a slightly small bore, then turn down the cylinder liner all but the back end to an interference fit with the front. The back bit is also an interference fit with the back of the water jacket which is a slightly larger bore. That way you can slip the cylinder in by hand to where front meets the front end of the water jacket, then just use a press for last 1/4" or so.

Chuck.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Even with my state of the art measuring instuments (groan), I can't tell if its a press fit or not untill I start pressing it---and then its too late, because going into a blind hole, ya gotta just suck it and see and you only get one chance. So--Plan is--Take it to the shop I do some engineering work for tomorrow, slather it with Loctite, put it in their hydraulic press, and start pressing. Maybe I don't need the power of a hydraulic press, but I'd much rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it. I'm not going to mess around with different temperatures because all this does is A--Burn my fingers B--make my wife angry C-do some incomprensible thing to the Loctite. And yes, I do think the Loctite acts as a lubricant for about the first 23 seconds.

 

[canadianhorsepower]

Thanks Luc.--I am going to use green Loctite #638. I have things turned to a point where it is soooo close--I don't dare take any more off. I miked the inside bore of my waterjacket 9 different places, and took an average of my readings. The average says 1.384. I have the o.d. of the cylinder setting right at 1.386. I'm afraid to take any more off, because the next thing I do the damn cylinder will FALL into the bore. I have to do a final ream of the cylinder i.d. and then its showtime.---Wish me luck!!!---Brian

GOOD LUCK you can do it

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Well, its in there!! I used a q-tip to slather a goodly amount of Loctite 638 both into the water jacket bore and on the outside of the cast cylinder, and had at it with the hydraulic press. (The hydraulic press is one of those cheapies with a bottle jack inside a channel frame). The first part of the cylinder went in with what I would deem as a light press fit, . The last 1/2" or so of travel took a fairly good grunt, but never stopped moving until it had bottomed out. I think its probably a good compression tight fit. And Oh Yes, I built the base yesterday afternoon after dinner.

 

[cfellows]

Nice job! I have to agree with you, interference fits are more magic than engineering. About half of my previous attemps turned out truly successful. Some were too loose, others had me shearing metal off the outside of the insert using my 20 ton hydraulic press. I think the surface finish has a lot to do with it also.

Chuck

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Its been a very boring afternoon---And I mean that literally. I never actually realized it before, but boring parts in a lathe has got to be about 100 times quicker than boring things on a mill.--At least on a small mill like mine. At any rate, this cylinder/water jacket is just about done. I have four holes left to tap, and if I don't stuff that up, I can move on to my engine sideplates.

 

[Ed]

Brian I like your top idea. It has style. Mine is still setting just as in my pictures. I can't go into the shop for 45 days per the Dr. Driving me crazy I was doing so good flowing you. Well I'm still here and will play catch up. Ed

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Ed ---It might be safer.--I have been known to (unwittingly) lead people down the garden path!!! Hope you are better soon---Brian

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Made good progress today, and got both side frames almost finished. Everything bolts together as intended, and I like the way the water jacket extends down to the baseplate between the sideplates. I have to go and buy a #8-32 tap tomorrow, and a few bolts of the correct size.

 

[dreeves]

Brian, I do like the solid front. It's a nice touch to the engine. Keep up the good work

Dave

 

[Brian Rupnow]

More 4 jaw work machining the 660 bronze crankshaft bearings. I don't think I could ever get to actually LIKE 4 jaw chuck work, but its ttrue, what others have said. It does get easier as you do more of it!!

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I have spent the best part of today machining these two crankshaft bearings from 660 bronze. They are right and left hand. It wasn't supposed to be this way, but now I have to admit to making a "good mistake" if there can possibly be such a thing. The saddle in the sideplates where the bearing sets was supposed to be 1" long. I misread my own drawing when I layed out the sideplates, and made the saddle 1 1/4" long. However, I made the part the correct length, and still allowed for the additional .125" beyond the saddle to the end of the sideplate at the top. The only result of my mistake was that the saddle where the bearing sets was 1/4" longer than it was supposed to be, and the angle at the end of the sideplates ended up being different than my drawing called for. That angle at the end of the sideplates is "in the air"--its purely cosmetic and doesn't mate with anything. My solution to this, was to make each bearing block 1/4" longer on one side of the centerline, which filled the 1/4" gap nicely, but made the bearings right and left hand. I got lucky. Mistakes in reading a drawing usually result in disaster and remaking parts.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Its almost crankshaft time!!!