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- Jun 24, 2010
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I made a new shaft with an integral end flange to retain the gear cluster that way. The advantages are it eliminates the bolt & washer business which could come loose one day & runs dangerously close to the back of the ring gear plate as is. The disadvantage is that the shaft is somewhat permanently bonded into the gear plate with Loctite. A tradeoff I accepted assuming I could again use local torch heat to remove it, even though it put up a fight coming out. My plate was undamaged but I think if it comes to that I’d make a new plate out of steel with a meatier shaft, although it can’t get too large a diameter ~6mm? just based on the inner gear diameter of the 10T gear.
I didn’t take a good picture but I drilled two ~1mm oil holes into the 10T gear & 4 holes in the 12T gear. I also drilled two axial oil bleed holes through the gear plate on either side of the idler shaft, hoping to get lubrication from the crankcase chamber into what becomes the back face of the 12T gear. Both ends of the gear have a washer made from brass shim stock. I am happy to say this seems to have worked. Yet another run & teardown showed the shaft was nice & oily with the idler spinning freely. Lesson learned.
I didn’t take a good picture but I drilled two ~1mm oil holes into the 10T gear & 4 holes in the 12T gear. I also drilled two axial oil bleed holes through the gear plate on either side of the idler shaft, hoping to get lubrication from the crankcase chamber into what becomes the back face of the 12T gear. Both ends of the gear have a washer made from brass shim stock. I am happy to say this seems to have worked. Yet another run & teardown showed the shaft was nice & oily with the idler spinning freely. Lesson learned.
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