My modified build of "Chucks Single"

[Metal Butcher]

MB
I am very interested in those plans as well. I have Turbocad deluxe V-12.
If you are willing to share them I would be very grateful.


Ron

Sure will Ron. When I get them I can send a copy If its OK with radfordc. If I start the build before you do than you can follow my build and ask questions. And I'll be more than happy to assist in any way I can.

-MB

 

[cfellows]

I had started to make up drawings, but unfortunately, we've been trying to get our house ready to sell and time has been at a premium for several weeks now. Also, drawing up formal plans is not my strong suit. I did draw up some bits and pieces to help out some of the others who wanted to build the JD Engine.

Luckily, sounds like Charlie had more perserverance than I did and has come up with drawings. I had no idea the engine would generate so much interest!

Chuck

 

[Metal Butcher]

Yesterday I made the piston, piston rod, and it's wrist pin. The piston was made from aluminum to offset the weight of the steel piston rod. I'm concerned that it's weight coupled with the off balance crank design will create excessive vibration. My hope is that the vibration won't effect the way the engine runs. This remains to be seen during the first test run.

I may also have a problem with the piston to cylinder fit. The cylinder bore is .7500" after honing with a wheel cylinder honing tool and the piston is .7497'' after a light clean up and polishing. When tested dry the piston slides back and forth as if it were gliding on air, or in other words almost frictionless. When I add a small amount of turbine oil it feels like I'm dragging a stick through a bucket of tar! I made the cylinder days ago and thought that it's bore was .7505". This is what I get for not rechecking just prior to machining the piston.

I'm lucky that the piston rod bearing surfaces fit the entire surface of the crank pin journal evenly. Below is a photo showing the finished rod and piston.

In an earlier post Chuck (cfellows) asked to see a picture of the crankshaft fixture I use during soldering/brazing operations when building a crank from separate pieces. I remembered that I still had a jig and an extra crank made with it's help. I will be making a crank fixture to the exact specs of Chuck's John Deere engine to see if I can duplicate my previous success using this method.

Below is a picture of a fixture and crank used on a previous engine. The crank shows the reason why I parkerize steel parts to prevent rust. It was made from 12 machined brass pieces and 3 lengths of steel shafting.

-MB

 

[putputman]

Chuck, both your horizontal and your John Deere generated a ton of interest.

I hope you get settled in your new home and get back on Alibre and start designing some new engines for us to work on next winter. Counting on you!!!

Of all the engines I have built, I probably run the John Deere the most. It is so simple to run & I love the sound.

 

[cfellows]

MB, good progress on the horizontal single. One thing to note is that the piston / cylinder fit isn't terribly critical - better too loose than too tight. Don't get me wrong, I'm not encouraging sloppy work, but compressed air engines are pretty forgiving of less than perfect work. Also, I doubt that balance will be a problem. You don't typically run this engine at very high RPM, even though it is capable of it.

Arv, I'm actually working on a scaled down, compressed air version of Randall Cox's Hoglett. It will either be a 3/4" or 5/8" bore and may use a valve assembly similar to the horizontal single. However, I'm also considering an overhead, ball bearing valve similar to that used by Liney's Halo engine. All depends on whether or not I want to mess with rocker arms. On this engine, I will complete the drawings before I do a build.

Chuck

 

[ozzie46]

Sure will Ron. When I get them I can send a copy If its OK with radfordc. If I start the build before you do than you can follow my build and ask questions. And I'll be more than happy to assist in any way I can.

-MB

Thanks MB. I probably wont start for a while. I am doing a Elmers Beam Engine And I have been cutting parts for 3 or 4 2 cyl engines so will be busy for a while.

Ron

 

[Metal Butcher]

I was at the N.A.M.E.S. show today and bought a pair of bronze Solar FWC-S7 3" flywheels from PMR. They looked really nice and I could not resist the temptation. I'm not sure that they are the correct size. I'm guessing that they should be OK since the plans seem to visually indicate that they are 3''. If I'm wrong I can always use them on another build.

I feel as though I'm cheating using cast flywheels on this build. Before the guys that build engines from casting kits charge at me with pitch forks let me explain my "attitude."

I feel that an engine build from castings should have cast flywheel(s). And I also feel that an engine machined from bar stock should have fabricated flywheel(s). This does not mean that I will always follow my own silly notions.

If you are one of the proud but silent builders of "Chucks Single" please feel free to divulge your flywheel of choice or any flywheel suggestions you may have.

Choices, choices. ???

-MB

 

[cfellows]

My (original) horizontal single has 3", cast bronze flywheels that I bought from Tiny Power a good many years ago.

Chuck

 

[Metal Butcher]

My (original) horizontal single has 3", cast bronze flywheels that I bought from Tiny Power a good many years ago.

Chuck

I could order a pair of those but I think the PMR ones I just bought are pretty close to the same.

However, I have a pair Tiny Power 2-1/2 bronze that I'm also considering, although the 3" seem well per portioned to the engine size.

These are the 2-1/2" Tiny Power ones I have.

http://www.tinypower.com/store2.php?crn=60&rn=298&action=show_detail

These should be the ones Chuck used.

http://www.tinypower.com/store2.php?crn=60&rn=297&action=show_detail



-MB

 

[radfordc]

OK guys. I just posted my drawing of the John Deere motor to the plans section. I created the drawing using TurboCad v6.5 and also saved it as a DXF file. If you have any trouble opening the file contact me and I will see if I can figure something else.

Charlie

 

[radfordc]

I was at the N.A.M.E.S. show today and bought a pair of bronze Solar FWC-S7 3" flywheels from PMR.
-MB

It's a shame we were in the same room this morning and didn't get to chat about building these models. Maybe some other time.

Charlie

 

[Metal Butcher]

I tried to find you, but no luck. Where were you located?

-MB

 

[radfordc]

I wasn't displaying, but just admiring everybody else's work. I did meet Phil Olts on Saturday and had a nice visit.

Charlie

 

[tel]

Tel, I like your spring ring retainer. What size spring wire do you reckon would be good for a 3/32 retainer?


Chuck

Finally remembered to hunt it out and mike it up - 0.018"

 

[Metal Butcher]

OK guys. I just posted my drawing of the John Deere motor to the plans section. I created the drawing using TurboCad v6.5 and also saved it as a DXF file. If you have any trouble opening the file contact me and I will see if I can figure something else.

Charlie

Thanks for adding the PDF type files. :bow:

Those are the only ones I can open! :

Now every one can access the drawings you created. ;D

Good work, (and I'm sure it was a lot of work) and thanks again for your contribution.

-MB

 

[Metal Butcher]

Todays rain and cold took me down to the shop to make a few parts.

I cut stock to make the bearing blocks. to place the holes for the crank and cam/gear the gears need to be reduced in width and their mesh test fitted. But how much? After looking at the plan it shows the valves 3/8" diameter intersecting with the cylinders out side diameter. So, I have .187" to fit in both the gear and cam according to the fist page a overall view?

Looks like I misread the drawing of the cylinder head?

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?action=tpmod;dl=item177

 

[radfordc]

Thanks for adding the PDF type files. :bow:

Those are the only ones I can open! :

Now every one can access the drawings you created. ;D

Good work, (and I'm sure it was a lot of work) and thanks again for your contribution.

-MB

Just remember I'm not a professional draftman, nor have the drawings been QC'ed. If you find something that doesn't make sense...it's probably wrong.

Charlie

 

[Metal Butcher]

Just remember I'm not a professional draftman, nor have the drawings been QC'ed. If you find something that doesn't make sense...it's probably wrong.

Charlie

Hi Charlie. I understand what your saying. You are in the process of building according to the plans you uploaded. If and when you find a problem hopefully you will make any correction(s) to the file. I,m getting stuck on the current project and not ready to start another build at this point. I tried skipping around a while back and it turned into a mess that I vowed to never repeat.

Thanks, your post was very prudent just in case someone starts building before you have a chance to finish and proof the plans.

-MB
-MB

 

[cfellows]

MB, you can can make the timing gears and cam wider than 3/8" then adjust the dimensions of the cam follower bracked at needed to align with the intake valve stem and the push rod. See picture below...

 

[Metal Butcher]

Yesterday I made the bearing blocks and fitted them to the side frames. The blocks are ready for pressed-in bronze bushings that will be installed after painting.

Without any specific dimensions available for the cam shape and size, I made a cam to resemble photos posted previously on other threads.

Below is a picture of the roughed out cam, ready for cut off.

This picture shows the PMR bronze cast flywheels that I’m considering for this build. The cam was bored for a snug fit on the hub of the large gear. Rather then use Locktite, I attached it with one 0-80 cap screw. On the right is the smaller gear on it’s hub. I made this a permanent assembly by using Locktite. The brass hub was cross drilled and tapped for a 4-40 set screw that will hold it to the crank shaft.

-MB