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Hi. I built one of these engines but not off plans and i also failed to get it to run off oiler but then i changed to vapour carb and I managed to get it to run. If the piston bounces back on compression when you give it a quick turn I would imagine you have enough conpression. I have the ignition just before tdc also if i were you I would take out plug to see if you have a good spark accross the plug contacts because you might have an ignition problem.Hope this might be of some help. Vince
 
Dont give up. Think of the satisfaction u will get when it finally runs
 
I have not given up....just super frustrated. I still cannot get it to run. I have the compression for sure with no leaks. I have to have the timing right...I've taken this thing apart 2-dozen times and can't figure out why it's not running. This thing is killing me.

Chris
 
Well Chris, if you are positive that you have compression and there are no air leaks and are satisfied that it is adequate enough, and you are positive that the timing is correct and the ignition system is functioning as it should, that only leaves the air/fuel mixture or its delivery system (carburation) as the culprit of not running. Are you using a vapor carb or the standard mixture needle setup? What type of fuel?

BC1
Jim
 
Hi Jim,

If I hose the intake with starter fluid it will kick over pretty strong....it just does not stay running when the fuel is added. Yes, I am using the drip oiler system like the plans suggest. I have tried regular and high octane fuel. What is the other fuel system you used? How does it work?

I'll try anything.

Chris
 
The vapor carb I am referring to is of a design by Jan Ridder. I will not guarantee this will cure your not running issue but is offered as an alternative to the sometimes fickle fuel delivery systems that have been incorporated over the years. Check out this website and send him an email requesting his drawings. He will send them to you free of charge, although I sent him a modest donation as I was truly impressed by his engine designs and the amount of time he spent in putting them together. If your engine runs on starting fluid but does not continue under normal circumstances then you are having a fuel delivery problem. I am not familiar enough with what you are working with but do know that others have switched to this vapor carb setup with success.

http://heetgasmodelbouw.ridders.nu

Good luck and keep the faith

BC1
Jim

 
Here is a pretty simple vapor fuel tank that I used on my plumbing parts engine:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=6352.0

Look at response #201 and back. The tank is made from a small, pimento jar and some small bits of brass. The air mixture is a piece of brass tubing, split up one side and slipped over another piece of brass with a hole in it. The brass tubing is rotated so the slit uncovers more or less of the hole in the underlying brass piece. If you have the pimento jar, you can put this fuel tank together in under an hour.

Chuck
 
A) Try and meter a small amount of propane in place of the fuel.

B) Starting fluid.
 
bearcar1 said:
The vapor carb I am referring to is of a design by Jan Ridder. I will not guarantee this will cure your not running issue but is offered as an alternative to the sometimes fickle fuel delivery systems that have been incorporated over the years. Check out this website and send him an email requesting his drawings. He will send them to you free of charge, although I sent him a modest donation as I was truly impressed by his engine designs and the amount of time he spent in putting them together. If your engine runs on starting fluid but does not continue under normal circumstances then you are having a fuel delivery problem. I am not familiar enough with what you are working with but do know that others have switched to this vapor carb setup with success.

http://heetgasmodelbouw.ridders.nu

Good luck and keep the faith

BC1
Jim
Thank you Jim...I will check it out tomorrow.

Chris
 
cfellows said:
Here is a pretty simple vapor fuel tank that I used on my plumbing parts engine:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=6352.0

Look at response #201 and back. The tank is made from a small, pimento jar and some small bits of brass. The air mixture is a piece of brass tubing, split up one side and slipped over another piece of brass with a hole in it. The brass tubing is rotated so the slit uncovers more or less of the hole in the underlying brass piece. If you have the pimento jar, you can put this fuel tank together in under an hour.

Chuck
Thank you Chuck...I will look at this tomorrow.
Chris
 
OK folks....I almost wet my pants yesterday. I remembered there were (2) layers of screen mesh I installed per the instructions. I wondered if taking one screen out would make a difference....I had tried everything else. I went out to my shop, took one screen out and gave it a whirl. It kicks over once or twice but stronger than it ever has. I started messing around with the timing and exhaust but it still won't run on it's own. It's getting better each time I mess with it.

I still want to smash it with a hammer...but I probably won't.

Chris
 
Just a thought going in that same direction, what if you were to use a piece of screening that is not as fine as what you have in there now. That is assuming what is currently in use is of a fine 'weave'.

BC1
Jim
 
bearcar1 said:
Just a thought going in that same direction, what if you were to use a piece of screening that is not as fine as what you have in there now. That is assuming what is currently in use is of a fine 'weave'.

BC1
Jim

Jim,

It is a fine screen mesh...the one that came with the plans. I tried running the engine with both screens out but same results. I noticed some air leaking back out of the intake? There is a flap that is held shut by a small conical spring. I'm going to try a slightly stronger spring to see if that helps.


Chris
 
stevehuckss396 said:
Then keep messing with it. Try removing the other piece of mesh and see if it gets better.

Thanks...I did try that but it did not get any better. I will continue to try more later on this evening. I'm also going to try using an O-ring instead of the piston ring like Chuck had suggested.

Chris
 
The o-ring was too tight. I would have to modify the piston to make it work and I don't want to do that. The engine will putt around a few times on gas but eventually stops. I don't know what else to stuff into the combustion chamber...

Chris
 
vascon2196 said:
The o-ring was too tight. I would have to modify the piston to make it work and I don't want to do that. The engine will putt around a few times on gas but eventually stops. I don't know what else to stuff into the combustion chamber...

Chris

I'm going to take some heat for this one but try to put some RC nitro into the fuel. Not a whole lot, maybe 5%. Might give you a bit more kick when it does fire and maintain some momentum
 
Hi Chris when I built my engine first I had no piston ring in it and it too would only barely run but i decided to machine the piston and put a viton o ring on it and I could not believe the difference when it fired up on first turn of engine. If you use some two stroke oil in the petrol it helps to lube the bore as the the o ring tends to clean off the lube oil . Dont give up because you will solve the problem .
Vince
 
stevehuckss396 said:
I'm going to take some heat for this one but try to put some RC nitro into the fuel. Not a whole lot, maybe 5%. Might give you a bit more kick when it does fire and maintain some momentum
Thats sorta the same tack I was on with the starting fluid suggestion. Nitro is a wonderful thing. ;D
 
All great suggestions...I do want to try an o-ring with the piston and maybe a little bit more lead. Of course finish it off with some of that Nitro fuel that I've never heard of.

Thanks again...

Chris
 
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