Gutted

[chillybilly]

Had my old Ts mill for a good few years ,though 40 years old and well used i have always been proud of my unmarked table .not any more ,nipped in for my dinner halfway through milling open slots in my hasbrouck base plate ,lost track of my turns and have caught the bed with a 10mm slot drill !!!!!!!!!!!!!! GUTTED

 

[vlmarshall]

Ah, man, I feel your pain. :-\

Sorry to hear it.

 

[chillybilly]

just been in the garage ,and i didnt dream the damage to the bed ,its still there .Still gutted!!!!

 

[modeng2000]

I did that to a rotary table I made. The milling cutter was not tight enough in the collet chuck and moved down into the table. Have replaced the collet chuck with one that works.

John

 

[chillybilly]

Anyone any idea of good repair methods for my sin,thought possibly weld up then have the table reground,its not affecting the running of the machine .Got me wondering now maybe my tool had pulled down on in the collet,ah well damage done now ,future caution required :-[

 

[steamer]

I feel your pain man...how deep?

Under an 1/8" I would probably leave it alone...beyond that maybe put a dutchman in...

Dave

 

[nemt]

What is a Dutchman you want to put eventaly?
I know there are about 15 miljons of them, but I should very much regrett it if one put in someones macine table.

Nemt (dutchman)

 

[jonesie]

you could mill it out so it is sq. and flat and fit and insert into it a ''dutchman''.cutter could have pulled out form not being tight , worn collet or mill shank undersize. if you us a solid holder with a set screw make sure the cutter is pulled down on the setscrew if not it could pull out the small amount on the ste screw flat.if it is small just leave it for a reminder. good luck.

 

[steamer]

;D
Sorry....here in the states if you fit a piece of stock into a carefully cut pocket, and then plane,mill or otherwise make smooth and flush with the table, it's called putting in a "dutchmen"........it's just a term of art here...I don't even know where it originated from....

It can be any shape....

Dave

 

[jonesie]

did not the little dutch boy stick his finger in the dike hole to stop the water from leaking through the dam? thus filling the hole. ;D

 

[dwentz]

JB weld it, if its not too deep. I purchased a mill that had some marks in the table, and filled them with JB weld, then filed, and stoned flat. It has held up very well. I fixed the arbor in my table saw with it. The bearings galled the shaft, cleaned everything up filled with JB weld and turned it on the lathe. Have had a new arbor laying here for over 5 years, but the saw shown no sign of needing it replaced. Good stuff that JB weld.

Dale

 

[PhiberOptix]

JB weld it,

I had never heard of that product I had to google it to see what it was http://www.jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php
sounds like something i should be keeping in the bottom draw along with the milliput

Thanks Dale
Andy

 

[rake60]

I'm assuming the table is cast iron.
It could be welded with a machinable rod or MIG or TIG wire such as Miller #770.
I have seen a few beautiful weld repairs on cast iron. I have also seen MANY
that would crack, harden or just plain pop out.

I really like Dave's Dutchman idea but it would need to be a good sized area
milled out if the repair insert were to be cast iron. The insert would have to be
made to compensate for the corner radius of the end mill or other cutter being used.

Which ever repair option is used, you really wouldn't need to have the table reground.
Tram the head perfectly square and take several very light cuts off of it with a good
flycutter. I've skinned lots of tables in my lifetime. It works very well.

Once again all of this is assuming the table is cast iron.

Rick

 

[CrewCab]

along with the milliput

blimey Andy, can you still get that .......... used it loads, mainly on old(er) motors going back a few years, useful stuff 8)

CC

 

[PhiberOptix]

blimey Andy, can you still get that .......... used it loads, mainly on old(er) motors going back a few years, useful stuff 8)

CC

Yes M8 they sell it at our local model shop and http://www.milliput.com/home.htm but
it would be no good for repairing the damaged table, however, that JB weld or liquid metal
may work, can we see a pic of the damage? it may inspire someone with another alternative solution

Regards
Andy

 

[CrewCab]

I always liked the fact you could mould it around a bolt (with a nad's of oil on) and 10 mins later you had a usable thread, connected to whatever you first stuck it to 8)

JB Weld ............. also dam good, used it to repair a leak in the front diff pan of a LandRover, it held for long enough till we managed to get it changed, about 300 miles ................ and to be fair it looked like it would have lasted a lot longer :bow:

CC

 

[John S]

Billy,
How deep ? There is a good cheap grinder over at Bulwell, I've had them do me a couple of Bridgy tables in the past.

Failing that I'm in the process of doing some sacrificial tooling plates for X3's I can knock a couple of Tom Seniors up if needed. 12 mm thick with a series of tapped holes all over to hold jigs and fixtures.

Covers the damage and if it happens again you can always spin the tooling plate over.

John S.

 

[chillybilly]

Thanks for the advice fellas ,the damage is about 0.050 "deep and appears to pose no mechaanical impairment .
Guess its mainly a pride thing ,you get such little shop time you find yourself rushing when you are in there in an attempt to get on with the job ,just one of those things i am telling myself . :
When my lottery win comes up i will get a mega job done ,just waiting now wont be long

Tooling plate sounds like a plan john ,when were you getting them done ?
You in your shop through september ?i am working out your way and could drop by ?
Cheers
Will

 

[Davo J]

I understand how you feel,If your like me it will bug you every time you walk in the shed.I think the tooling plate is a good idea,cover it up so it can't see it .On the up side it might be a good excuse to get a DRO (so you dont loose track of your turns again).It's worth a try!!
Dave