Arild
Active Member
Volume capacity should be 125 times more (5x5x5). So, 0.030 liter (30cc) equal to 3.75liter!
Ford 300 Inline Six
- Thread starter mayhugh1
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Hmmmm... The Ford Maverick with the 250CID engine had a 9.2L coolant capacity. Terry, you're gonna have to put some BIG tanks on the radiator for this thing to get close to factory specs for coolant capacity.
And that's the reason why you never see IC engines continuously idling during shows like the compressed air powered steam engines. - Terry
Hit and miss run all day long.
Make it hit every time and run 1000 rpm and see if it will run all day.
Bentwings
Well-Known Member
Very nice I’m envious.
the race car uses light press in or pound in cast iron sleeves they use a special slide hammer to remove them when warm they pop right out but if left in and the aluminum block cools they can be a real bear to remove. Water cooled blocks ar now antiques. They are solid aluminum now we’re i to build a model engine I’d do as you have and use coolant . Most model plane engines are air cooled. There is very little issue with cylinders unless run excessively lean or with too little oil in gas 4 strokes are pretty much like lawn mower engines scaled down. Most Rc flyers use two stroke twins for big power 4 strokes twins are just too heavy for power output. Turbo and supercharging just does not work well on model motors the electric stuff is prett big too batteries are big lithium things subject to fires especially in crashes Very expensive too. . There are at least half a dozen model engines I’d like to build were my eyesight better. I’m just happy that I can work with my steamer and maybe a couple turbines . I just got one of my computers back so I’m going to see if I can revive some cad skills maybe get some 3 d printed stuff. That’s come a long ways .
byron
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The tappets and pushrods were both made from drill rod, but only the tappets were hardened. The pushrods were finished with ball ends on my little CNC lathe, and the tappets were plunge cut with a matching socket using a spherical end mill in the lathe's tailstock.
As shown in the rendering of the rod/socket model, the socket depth was made equal to the diameter of the rod. Since the rod and tappet don't remain concentric during operation, some clearance is required between the two just above the ball. This clearance is provided by a slight bevel on the top inside edge of the tappet and by an undercut on the rod just behind its ball. The resulting geometry provides space that can accumulate and retain oil. Valve lash was set using a piece of .003" shim stock as a feeler gage.
The calibrated crankshaft pulley and timing indicator were used to time the camshaft to the crankshaft. With the crankshaft positioned 15 degrees BTDC and the camshaft rotated to the start of cylinder number one's intake opening event, the driven cam gear was locked to the flange on the end of the camshaft with four SHCS's. Sanity checks made by manually turning the crankshaft with a spark plug temporarily inserted into each cylinder one at a time showed plenty of compression.
With 45 cc's of oil in the crankcase, the crankshaft webs are barely wetted. Unfortunately, dip sticks seem to be yet another thing that's difficult to scale down. I've yet to come up with one that can be reliably read. The Ford's dipstick was fashioned from a piece of 1/16" steel rod with a filed flat bottom end on which a clean oil meniscus is essentially invisible. Stippling the flat portion of the stick helped a little as did blackening with a torch to reduce reflections. Even still, oil readings are barely visible. If I were doing things over, I'd position the faux oil filter at an appropriate position on the side of the block so its threaded hole could serve as an overflow indicator.
The final photo shows the prototype spark plug I've been secretly working on. It has a 3/32 zirconium electrode that should handle a full two joule ignition. The plug's body was designed to withstand the six figure voltages that the plug's .093" gap is likely to generate during compression. The extremely long plug wires that will be required to reach the plugs will contain RFI suppression to meet CE requirements. - Terry.
As shown in the rendering of the rod/socket model, the socket depth was made equal to the diameter of the rod. Since the rod and tappet don't remain concentric during operation, some clearance is required between the two just above the ball. This clearance is provided by a slight bevel on the top inside edge of the tappet and by an undercut on the rod just behind its ball. The resulting geometry provides space that can accumulate and retain oil. Valve lash was set using a piece of .003" shim stock as a feeler gage.
The calibrated crankshaft pulley and timing indicator were used to time the camshaft to the crankshaft. With the crankshaft positioned 15 degrees BTDC and the camshaft rotated to the start of cylinder number one's intake opening event, the driven cam gear was locked to the flange on the end of the camshaft with four SHCS's. Sanity checks made by manually turning the crankshaft with a spark plug temporarily inserted into each cylinder one at a time showed plenty of compression.
With 45 cc's of oil in the crankcase, the crankshaft webs are barely wetted. Unfortunately, dip sticks seem to be yet another thing that's difficult to scale down. I've yet to come up with one that can be reliably read. The Ford's dipstick was fashioned from a piece of 1/16" steel rod with a filed flat bottom end on which a clean oil meniscus is essentially invisible. Stippling the flat portion of the stick helped a little as did blackening with a torch to reduce reflections. Even still, oil readings are barely visible. If I were doing things over, I'd position the faux oil filter at an appropriate position on the side of the block so its threaded hole could serve as an overflow indicator.
The final photo shows the prototype spark plug I've been secretly working on. It has a 3/32 zirconium electrode that should handle a full two joule ignition. The plug's body was designed to withstand the six figure voltages that the plug's .093" gap is likely to generate during compression. The extremely long plug wires that will be required to reach the plugs will contain RFI suppression to meet CE requirements. - Terry.
The prototype spark plug has a very long insulator.
Is this only for prototype, or did you calculate that this length is necessary to prevent arcing?
Is this only for prototype, or did you calculate that this length is necessary to prevent arcing?
Testing has shown final design will have to be another inch longer. I'm calling it the 'Terry Plug' or TP for short.
Your engine is Beautiful Terry. Without anything in the picture to lend scale, I would swear that it is the real thing. I have a Ford 300 powering the tug in my hangar, couldn't tell you the color of it for all the grime-its a work horse. You make me want to steam clean it.
Ab Fab. Your work is always inspiring.
Just a small note for what it is worth to others. For somewhat larger engines the stainless steel
stiffener from old wind shield wiper blades makes great dip stick stock. And Free!
Appropriate for ~ 1/4 scale engines . Way too big for this beauty.
Learned from my friend Dwight Giles.
Just a small note for what it is worth to others. For somewhat larger engines the stainless steel
stiffener from old wind shield wiper blades makes great dip stick stock. And Free!
Appropriate for ~ 1/4 scale engines . Way too big for this beauty.
Learned from my friend Dwight Giles.
What started out as work on the ignition system got away from me and turned into a huge machining project. My previous assembly stopped short of installing the distributor which required the ignition system to time it. At its heart will be one of Roy Sholl's Magnum CDI's that's capable of 5 krpm on a six cylinder engine. The prank TP project is out of my system, and model engine spark plugs (Viper ZR1's, 10-40 thread, 6mm hex) will be used.
The CDI is an already potted module that I've used before, but I like to add my own front-end electronics that won't require a live ignition for timing adjustments. These additional parts along with the CDI add a lot of bulk around a small model engine. Since I want its display to be more about the engine than its running gear, I decided to hide the ignition and hopefully the fuel tank as well.
A 12" x 8" x 1/4" base plate cut from hot rolled steel will eventually be bolted to the engine through an intermediate riser block. The running gear will be hidden inside machined recesses in the bottom of the aluminum riser. The block is big enough to possibly include the fuel tank and pump, and so their machining was done as well.
For fuel delivery I prefer a recirculating fuel loop over a gravity-fed tank because of the consistent fuel level it can present to the carburetor and the flexibility it provides in placing (or hiding) the tank. There are some downsides though: 1) the fuel pump requires its own space, and 2) my pump of choice which is intended to fuel RC planes is a constant volume gear pump. Speed control of this pump typically isn't enough on its own to control turbulences inside a tiny carburetor fuel bowl. The fixes I've come up with require bowl volume, and so the Ford carburetor that doesn't even have a bowl is going to be a problem.
The riser required some ten hours of machining time, but its modeling required much more. The fuel and ignition systems were safely separated and the small signal electronics were separated from the (electrically) noisy CDI and its high voltage output. Unlike some of the other model engine control modules I've designed, I was also determined to make this one easy to assemble and maintain. The fuel tank was hogged out of the riser's left-over volume and will be later sealed with a JB-Welded cover.
The baseplate was painted with Rustoleum Multicolor Textured paint which is gas and oil resistant and
nicely covers unprepped hot rolled surfaces. The riser was bead blasted and will be painted with a similar shade Gun Kote. - Terry
The CDI is an already potted module that I've used before, but I like to add my own front-end electronics that won't require a live ignition for timing adjustments. These additional parts along with the CDI add a lot of bulk around a small model engine. Since I want its display to be more about the engine than its running gear, I decided to hide the ignition and hopefully the fuel tank as well.
A 12" x 8" x 1/4" base plate cut from hot rolled steel will eventually be bolted to the engine through an intermediate riser block. The running gear will be hidden inside machined recesses in the bottom of the aluminum riser. The block is big enough to possibly include the fuel tank and pump, and so their machining was done as well.
For fuel delivery I prefer a recirculating fuel loop over a gravity-fed tank because of the consistent fuel level it can present to the carburetor and the flexibility it provides in placing (or hiding) the tank. There are some downsides though: 1) the fuel pump requires its own space, and 2) my pump of choice which is intended to fuel RC planes is a constant volume gear pump. Speed control of this pump typically isn't enough on its own to control turbulences inside a tiny carburetor fuel bowl. The fixes I've come up with require bowl volume, and so the Ford carburetor that doesn't even have a bowl is going to be a problem.
The riser required some ten hours of machining time, but its modeling required much more. The fuel and ignition systems were safely separated and the small signal electronics were separated from the (electrically) noisy CDI and its high voltage output. Unlike some of the other model engine control modules I've designed, I was also determined to make this one easy to assemble and maintain. The fuel tank was hogged out of the riser's left-over volume and will be later sealed with a JB-Welded cover.
The baseplate was painted with Rustoleum Multicolor Textured paint which is gas and oil resistant and
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stewart drummond
Member
first inline six cylinder with a firing order that isnt 1-5-3-6-2-4 ? , even a 'real' 300 cube ford is 1-5-3-6-2-4 , i think youll find every in- line- six ever made will run in that order , not that it 'wont ' run but vibration wise you'll find out
pretty quick , why its never done
pretty quick , why its never done
Not sure what you're trying to say. The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.
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For shame Terry, a 6 volt electrical system? I know that volts don't scale, but every Ford 300 would have started its' life as a 12 volt system. It looks like you've got plenty of extra room in the base to fit in a DC-DC converter, and feed it with a proper 12 volts. That way when the battery dies at a show, you can just pull the battery out of somebody's car and hook it up to your engine with a set of jumper cables.
Did I say that everything looks outstanding?
Don
Did I say that everything looks outstanding?
Don
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But a 6V system will probably fire-up using your phone battery?
K2
K2
The fuel tank cover was sealed with JB-Weld. A machined 'o-ring' groove around the face of the tank was filled with the epoxy to ensure a continuous leak free seal. A filler neck with an o-ring'd gas cap completed the tank assembly. After installing the pump and motor, the tank was filled with gas and the entire fuel system exercised for several minutes using a dummy loop to check for leaks.
A threaded Delrin feed-thru was created to route the CDI's high voltage output through the top surface of the riser and into the center tower of the distributor cap. Just for fun, the feed-thru was machined to resemble an automotive ignition coil.
After installing and testing the support electronics around the CDI, the distributor timing was initially set to 10 degrees BTDC using the already calibrated notch on the crankshaft pulley. Eighth inch high voltage silicone plug wire was used, and the boots were fashioned from repurposed automotive vacuum fittings.
The remainder of the engine's front end was assembled. The photos show the completed engine to date. Only the carburetor and radiator remain to finish up the 'build' portion of this project. Since the bowl design is probably going to be troublesome, the carburetor will be left until the end. The radiator will be tackled next. - Terry
A threaded Delrin feed-thru was created to route the CDI's high voltage output through the top surface of the riser and into the center tower of the distributor cap. Just for fun, the feed-thru was machined to resemble an automotive ignition coil.
After installing and testing the support electronics around the CDI, the distributor timing was initially set to 10 degrees BTDC using the already calibrated notch on the crankshaft pulley. Eighth inch high voltage silicone plug wire was used, and the boots were fashioned from repurposed automotive vacuum fittings.
The remainder of the engine's front end was assembled. The photos show the completed engine to date. Only the carburetor and radiator remain to finish up the 'build' portion of this project. Since the bowl design is probably going to be troublesome, the carburetor will be left until the end. The radiator will be tackled next. - Terry
Gorgeous. Even the soldering is pretty.
Is that 1.8oz fuel tank all that's in the base? How long does it run on that?
Bob
Is that 1.8oz fuel tank all that's in the base? How long does it run on that?
Bob
