Building of TINY INLINE 4 in Brazil

[enfieldbullet]

Hello Edi, great work you have there. I`m also from Brazil (Sampa). Canyou tell me where did you buy the metal blocks? They seem to be hard to find

if you don't need a specific measure i suggest the scrapyard.

i'm very near you, (São José dos Campos), and if you really can't find them i can pick them up for you and then we can figure transportation/mail

i think the price here is R$10,00/kg for aluminum

 

[Harold Lee]

Hi Chuck!
Thanks for your comments.
I'm at the South of Brazil State of Paraná and the City is Curitiba.
Do you know Brazil?

Edi

Edi

I have been to Curitiba a number of times. It is a beautiful city and I have friends that live there. Before I retired in 2006, HSBC was one of my clients. My favorite place to visit there was the Botanical Gardens. Keep up the good work on your engine. I will be following your progress.

Harold

 

[metalmad]

Looking real good Edi
Pete

 

[kcmillin]

Great job on the distributor Edi!! I am glad to see the delrin worked good for you with the magnet bracket.

Keep up the great work, your parts are coming out top notch.

Kel

 

[e.picler]

Hello to all!
Thanks for the kind words. I'm still learning based on what I see here. You aways set the bar a step higher for me.

Herold!
I live ver near to Jardim Botânico (Botanical Garden), yes it is a very nice place to visit. Where your friends live here?
Thanks for your interest in following my progress.


Hei Southlib!
Are you building some project? I purchased the materials for my building from a local material supplier. They have a big sort of materials (steel, brass, aluminum, acetal, bronze etc....) in all kinds of shapes and dimensions.
As you are in São Paulo, I pretty sure you have more options to buy materials for your project.
If you need some help during your construction, just let me know.
Good to know more people from Brasil being part of this forum.

Enfieldbullet!
Also good to know that one more from Brasil here.
Are you also building a project. If so let me know.
Also if is anything I can help, just let me know.

Pete!
I'm also following your construction. Great great job. I1m really impressed, you do every thing by yourself (melting your blanks, building the tools....)
Next pictures, culd you set some thing near to the engine for size reference? I will do the same for my next post. Someone already asked me that but I forgot to do that.

Edi

 

[southlib]

Hi Edi, i thought the scrapyard would be the first choice. I've seen some places sell bars (barras, tarugos) of aluminium of a alloy you specify. That's nice if you need something specific.

I plan to build a 2 stroke single cylinder, air cooled. I'm thinking whether i should machine everything, or if i could cast some parts.

what kind of milling machine are you using?

thanks

 

[e.picler]

Hi Southlib!
I have a Optimum BF20 milling machine. I recentely installed an CNC kit on it.
It is working very well. A very good help for complex shape parts. I`m using the Mastercam to generate the G code.
I also have a small lathe from Optimum as well it is D180 X 300.

Edi

 

[aarggh]

The engines coming along beautifully, and the Optimum gear is really great isn't it Edi? They do a good job on them.

cheers, Ian

 

[e.picler]

Hello all!
Some more small progress to share with you all.
This weekend I decided to finish the water pump and the fan assembly.
On the picture below you see the parts and the tools I used. The red stuff on the right is the tube cutter tool and the one on left is the tube bending devise.


I started anealling the brass tube in order to bend it to the specified angle. I used a portable torch as I don't have the oxigen/acetilene equipment. This torch is used by Plumbers to weld cupper pipes,it uses a gas refil can and can reach over 1000 degree Celcius according the information on the packaging.



After bending the tube, I soldered it to the pump support.
First I checked if it was on the place/angle


Second I checked if the small bearing was OK on the fan hub than removed it for the welding step.


Here is the intake tube and the bearing hub welded to the pump support


On the photo bellow I'm drlling the holes on the fan washer.


After finishing the assembly of the pump (gluing the gears to the shafts with loctite) I decided to test it. It was really a great moment for me. IT WORKED!!! AT FIRST RUN!!!
I used a small Dremel to make it run.
If you want to see it running, take a look on the youtube video bellow. Here it is running at 2000 RPM
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQC_Rzvltps[/ame]

This time the little pump is running at 5000 RPM.You can see the diference on the flow (much bigger)
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ey_uoiIzzzQ[/ame]

Next you see how the water pump and the fan fited on the engine







That's it for this time. It is advancing is small pace, but getting there.

Thanks all.

Edi

 

[stevehuckss396]

That is sure looking good Edi!

 

[e.picler]

Hi Steve!
Thanks for your words. My work is nothing compared to what you do.
I leaving the crankshaft and the camshaft for the last.
Am I afraid of something???? Hehehehe!!!

Edi

 

[agmachado]

Hi Edi!!!

Your progress is very good and fast too... I'm here watching all !!

Cheers,

Alexandre

 

[gbritnell]

Hi Edi,
The engine is coming along nicely. Each completed piece adds to the excitement of the eventual first pop when it's running.
If I could make a suggestion. These little engines make more heat then you would think. With that said the size of you fan probably won't move much air. Other than the fact of trying to keep it to 'scale' if you want it to provide some cooling affect you'll have to make it bigger. There was some talk in another thread about radiator size, scale versus usefulness and as with other miniature components sometimes they just need to be made to a size that will work. If your outcome is to just run the engine for a couple of minutes then it won't matter but if you want to run it longer you'll need to move more air.
gbritnell

 

[Swifty]

I think that the "fan" may only be the centre part that the blades fasten on too, it's very thick.

Paul.

 

[e.picler]

Hi George! How are you doing? Thanks for your kind comments.
Yes for sure you can make suggestions. Thanks for your tip on the cooling matter of my small 4 cylinders baby.
I think you are right on your point, however this is not my original project (Kelly project) and he already built it and tested it running in different conditions so I`m assuming the cooling system is designed accordingly, in fact I never asked him how long this engine got non stop running without overheating. I will ask him.
Anyway thank you very much for your comments. Comming from you it sure has its value.

Paul!
I think you may be right. When I saw it installed on the block, the first thing come up on my mind was if it was not too thick. I will test that and see what hapens.

Thank you guys.

Edi

 

[MCRIPPPer]

really cool project! i cant wait for more pictures of your build.

 

[e.picler]

hello to all!
MCRIPPPer thanks for your interest on my building.

Here are some more pictures.
This time I turned the Tappets and tried to make the Valve Keeper.
The photo bellow shows the countersinking operation as I already turned a shaft to 4mm diameter. I used a 3mm ball end mill. Note that I`m converting the dimensions to metric.


The Tappets finished. Note that the one on left side has a mark caused by the chuck jaw during the cutting off operation (cutter jammed).


And here are the Tappets mounted on the Block guides.


Here I`m turning a shaft to make the small Valve Keepers. Boy this is really small!!!!
I only realize how small it was when I cut off the first one. Here started my headache. I turned a OD to 4 mm than drilled as deep as it was possible with a 2mm drill. Next I moved it to the mill and using a 2mm saw blade I provided a slot as you can see on the photos bellow. Than moved the blank back to the late for countersinking the small recess after this the parts was basically finished it was only a matter of parting it off.
I LOST ALL THE WORK. The cutter got jammed into the blank and destroyed the blank. I was using a 1.4mm cutting insert.





Here is the result of the parting off operation.


I`m now planning to make it different. I will cut off all the parts than put them on a 2mm shaft and clamp them on the vise and cut the slot. Hope it works.
Would anyone have a suggestion? A different method?


Thaks to all.

Edi

 

[kcmillin]

Hello Edi.

In regards to the cooling I can only go by my experience with this engine, and I cannot say the same results will happen with different builders. That being said, while running the TI4 It would stay cool and would run for hours. One day I kept it running for over 6 hours with short breaks to re-fuel (both the engine and myself) before I got tired, but It could have gone much longer. It would only boil over if I was running it under load on the dyno, and I pushed this engine pretty hard, Im talking about 10,000 plus revs and holding for a few seconds and sometimes for a full minute. When I would run it on the dyno I could get about 5-10 minutes of run time before it would boil over, but I would keep it going anyway. I know it seems ludicrous to take something you spent 100's of hours on and try to destroy it, and I kinda did. But hey, that's me, and I can always fix the parts because I made them to begin with.

When I made the valve keepers I never thought it was going to work, but it did. When I made mine I think I spun the work at a somewhat high RPM, around 1000, but I can;t be certain. What speed are you using?

You could try to support the piece with a small rod held it the tailstock the same ID as the keeper. This would greatly reduce the chance of it bending.

Keep up the great work!

Kel

 

[johnny1320]

Hi Edi, what if you made a split bushing to slide the keeper blank into and cut one or two at a time. Don't have to much hanging out so it is well supported.

 

[e.picler]

Hello guys!
It been a long time since my last post. Not much time for the engine building.
As you can see on the post I was not successful to make the valve spring clip. I have changed the process to first machine the little washer with the recess than cut the opening. It worked. See bellow the photos of how it was done.

Maching the ""washer" to the OD / ID end the recess.



The clips cut to the thickness spec.


After having the clips deburred I placed them on a drill to have all alined and fixed it on the vise as shown on the picture bellow.


Using a circular saw I cut the oppening. It was cut in small passes of 0.2mm.



For the last pass, I removed the drill.


Here is the finished clips. The new process worked fine.


I also have cut the fins on the pushrod cover. The plans from Kelly does not calls for that, however I thought it would have a better looking with the fins on. The video of Kelly`s engine you can see the pushrod with fins.



That`s it for now. Next post I will show you the tests I have done to machine the crankshaft on the milling machine. It really worked well.

Thanks,

Edi