Brian builds Atkinson Engine

[SilverSanJuan]

Ah, I see. When you refer to your "jitterbug" sander, is that an orbital sander?

Thanks,
Todd

 

[Don1966]

Looking great Brian, what size is your mill my I ask? You have your plate extended on all extremes. I am still here following with interest.

Don

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Looking great Brian, what size is your mill my I ask? You have your plate extended on all extremes. I am still here following with interest.

Don

My mill is a Busybee CT129 It has a maximum left to right travel of 11 1/4", 5.5" the other direction, and a 2" quill stroke.---and I think its a 3/4HP motor, with an MT2
taper in the quill.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

This is the finish I was able to achieve after about 5 minutes using 120 grit paper on my jitterbug (orbital) sander. Some of the marks left by flycutting were quite deep. (estimate about .005")--enough to be very visible, so required a fair bit of sanding to get all the swirl marks out that were left by flycutting. The current finish is quite acceptable, but I will use a sheet of 320 grit to give it a bit more dressing before I dismount it from the bench. One of the things you will notice, although I showed no pictures of the process, is the 3/16" x 45 degree chamfer all around the top side. I did this with a 45 degree chamfering endmill while I still had it set up in my milling machine.

 

[SilverSanJuan]

That does look nice. It has a satin sheen to it. Thanks for the extra info.

Todd

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Well of course I write notes to myself all over the parts I'm drilling and counterboring 20 holes in!! Doesn't everybody???

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Yowzahhh---It all goes together!!!

 

[Don1966]

Woo!!! You are a speed star, dog gone Brian, do you sleep? That looks awesome. You are making short time of this project. Beautiful work as usual.

Don

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Its always a huge relief to me, when I get all of the major peices assembled on the baseplate and everything rotates as it is supposed to. On one level, I know it will, because it does on the 3D cad model. However, on a strictly "machinist" level, I always hold my breath a bit as the peices go together, even though I'm the one that created the 3D model. Will everything rotate without interferance??--Will the piston stop at both ends of the cylinder where it is supposed to???--Will my sub assemblies be drilled and tapped accurately enough to match up to the baseplate holes without having to resort to "stretched holes"??? I guess we all have that same amount of trepidition when building any peice of complex machinery. Perhaps its something I will outgrow if I stay in this machining hobby long enough, but today I am relieved. When I posted the assembly picture last night, I didn't have either of the #10-24 x 2" shcs that hold the cylinder in place. This morning I drove down street and picked them up, and bolted the cylinder securely to the baseplate. Everything goes "round and round and up and down" just like its supposed to!!!----Brian

 

[vcutajar]

Nicely done Brian. Looking forward to see it run.

Vince

 

[flatlandflyer]

I guess we all have that same amount of trepidition when building any peice of complex machinery. Perhaps its something I will outgrow if I stay in this machining hobby long enough, !----Brian

Brian, I've been following your builds in silence for sometime now, always delighted with your designs and problem solving,as to your trepidation, I've been building molds and various little machines for some 35+ years now,that never goes away,I always wonder until the last screw goes in, I don't think that ever goes away,at least I hope not, how much fun would that be?
Gimpy

 

[Brian Rupnow]

This afternoon we have a 5" diameter chunk of brass and its mating aluminum hub that are destined to become a flywheel assembly. Unfortunately, my toolshop dropped the ball and didn't get me the 8mm reamer I ordered earlier in the week. I would take a chance and bore the brass to an exact 8mm, but that chunk of brass is worth more than the first car I bought, so I will wait untill my reamer comes in.---Don't want to screw it up!!!

 

[Brian Rupnow]

This morning I decided that since 8MM is 0.3150" and 5/16" IS 0.3125" I would go ahead and finish off the flywheel using a 5/16" reamer. I can open that out to 0.3150" when my 8mm reamer comes in. I like the way Jan designed the bolt on pulley/hub combination. There are three 1/4" set screws arrayed at 120 degrees around the hub to secure it to the shaft, and three #10-24 shcs to secure the hub to the side of the flywheel.

 

[ironman]

Nice looking flywheel assembly. Don't get too far ahead of yourself, but that hole was safe.

Work on my man. Doing good.

Ray

 

[Brian Rupnow]

So now I'm stumped!!! The petrol vapour gas tank for this engine requires a peice of clear glass 1 7/16" diameter x 1/16" to 1/8" thick. Nobody in Barrie knows where I can get this. I was thinking about the glass lens from an old flashlight, but I just came back from the hardware store and all the flashlights are plastic now. Anybody have a suggestion?

 

[bazzz]

Brian,
Some commercial boilers use "sight glasses" so you can watch the flame pattern when adjusting the combustion settings. I found a 2" x 1/4" glasses doing a quick search.

http://www.statesupply.com/maintena...m-supplies/gauge-glass-and-accessories/ed1027

Good luck in your build,

Dave

 

[rhitee93]

Do you know anybody locally with a waterjet cutter? I could cut them for you for the cost of shipping, but I hear that can be expensive going over the border.

 

[Ogaryd]

Hi Brian

I would check at your local watch repair shop. Pocket watch crystals come in many different sizes. They won't be 1/16 thick but will be plenty strong enough for that application.
Thanks for your time and energy you spend on your posts, it's appreciated by many of us. Some K your way.
Regards Gary

 

[seagar]

You have done it again Brian.Just beautifull.
Ian (seagar)

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Thank you Seagar, and thanks to you other gentlemen for your suggestions.---Brian