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Just for the heck of it, here are a couple of shots of the gas tank end stands coming to life. I start with one bar set up in the vice and work from both ends. I have a couple more holes to put in in this set-up, then I will cut them out.
GASTANKENDSTANDS003.jpg

GASTANKENDSTANDS001.jpg
 
Brian you might check the Electric supply houses for your glass. They are used for break glass shutdown switches. I will look at my shop Monday and see if I have any and will let you know. The engine is really shaping up and I have enjoyed your post and photos.

Don
 
I decided to turn the large diameter of the gas tank stands on the rotary table. In order to have them be consistent I drilled and tapped the mounting holes in the bases and bolted them to a scrap peice of aluminum plate. I inserted the tips of the chuck jaws into the center hole which is cut all the way throughh the one gas tank end stand for a sight glass, and expanded the chuch to clamp internally.You can't see it in the picture but I rested a small flat washer on the first "step" of the chuck jaws to act as a spacer and keep the milling cutter from cutting my chuck jaws.
gastankbuild002-1.jpg

gastankbuild001-1.jpg
 
And there we have a very nice gas tank. Its not soldered nor polished yet, but the end stands do bolt down where they are supposed to on the base, and I think once I get a bit of polishing done on the tank it will look pretty classy!!
gastankbuild002.jpg

gastankbuild001.jpg
 
A good glass shop should be able to cut a circle for you Brian. We had them made as consumables for some oil field equipment. They'd cut any dia we needed. They have wet belt sanders to even finish the edges.
Greg
 
Sometimes you eat the bear----Sometimes the bear eats you!!! Yesterday the bear tore a large steak out of my butt!!! My cheap brass gas tank made from a 0.023" wall peice of sink drain plumbing was a total wash. First it went oblong when I soldered the filler bung in. Then I thought I could be smart and squeeze it back into shape and fill any gaps with solder (convinced myself it wouldn't show).---What you see are the ultimate results. I managed to save the end stands. Today I bought a peice of 1.5" O.D. steel tube with a 1/8" wall (brass was just too damned expensive) and will start again. Bah!!! Humbug!!! Nah Nah ****oo----Brian
BEAR001.jpg
 
ACK!!! :eek: Glad the tank shell is the only lost work. Now we know that plumbing supplies are not what they used to be...

Todd
 
Just for the heck of it, here are a couple of shots of the gas tank end stands coming to life. I start with one bar set up in the vice and work from both ends. I have a couple more holes to put in in this set-up, then I will cut them out.
GASTANKENDSTANDS003.jpg

GASTANKENDSTANDS001.jpg
Brian.......do you put side rake on the carbide boring bar for this cut??

Mario
 
Bummer about the tank :( It was nice looking, but I bet you'll make the 2nd one even better...
 
Well, here's a beginning. The first thing I notice is that Jan used a 24mm bore, and I only have a 7/8" (22.22mm) reamer. Since I have more faith in my ability to get a good consistent reamed finish than a good consistent bored finish, I THINK I will design this with a 7/8" bore. Jan calls up grey pearlitic cast iron for the cylinder, and since I haven't worked with that before, I may try and use it, depending on cost.
ASSEMBLY--OVERALL.jpg
Hey Brian,

15/16 is closer than 7/8, and 1" is closer to "volume size" than the 7/8 is too, by a respectable amount. If the only problem is not having a reamer, let me know and I'll donate one of each size to the project. I've got extras. Too many extras in fact.

Take care. Good luck.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario. [email protected]
 
Brian--Considering the cost of reamers, that is a pretty magnificent offer!!! However, its a bit late in the game now, and I have my piston and cylinder long since finished. However, thank you kindly for dropping by to say hello, and for the offer.---Brian
 
Well, thats not quite as pretty as brass would have been, but its together and as far as I can tell it doesn't leak. You can see that I haven't installed the "sight glass" in one end yet, but I have finished the two air adjusting screws that screw into the top of the filler cap and onto the vapour discharge line. All in all I'm satisfied, considering how it all went to Heck on me the first time around.---Brian
GASTANKINSTALLED003.jpg

GASTANKINSTALLED002.jpg
 
I think the two-tone tank goes very well with the rest of the engine. Did you find a source for your glass yet?
 
Thank you Brian for staying around to share what you are doing with us. I just got back on after the big change and the first set of posts i read was this one, I love the way you problem solve and share that with us. It shows me the different ways of achieving the same goal.
I will be staying here also in a wait and see mode

tom
archer3d
 
Brian

Sorry about your mishap with the tank. I guess these things happen to all of us. Just out of curiosity, what material are you now using for the tank and did you soft solder it?

Vince
 
Brian

Sorry about your mishap with the tank. I guess these things happen to all of us. Just out of curiosity, what material are you now using for the tank and did you soft solder it?

Vince

1018 mild steel. I silver soldered the filler bung to the steel tube,and the outlet to the brass end stand and soft soldered the tube to the brass end stands. The steel tube is 1.5" o.d. x 1/8" wall thickness.
 
Hello Brian,thank you for the video I really enjoyed it .

Regards ,Ian (seagar).
 

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