thanks for the info I stand corrected. I did contact local regulations but our stuff is too small to worry about unless abused. Fire box in homes might be frown upon. That’s why I’ve elected to go electric . Besides it’s “ green “LOL. HAHA . My ultimate test will not be air pressure hydraulic n a water tank it won’t explode maybe push the end cap out or pull screws out . I’m hoping to get this fluid dynamics program up and running so I’ll have additional data. It’s been a long time since I’ve used it . So I’m stumbling around .Source for this please, Dan.
The ASME Code (which our little boilers are generally and thankfully exempt from) cold water pressure test for fired boilers is 1.5 times Maximum Allowable Working Pressure (MAWP). On pressure vessels it is 1.5 times MAWP times ratio of material allowable stress cold divided by material allowable stress at operating temperature. For our boilers hopefully the ratio of allowable stresses is 1.
The ASME Code safety factor is 4:1. That is if say your steel boiler shell material has an allowable stress of 60,000 psi, you only get credit for 15,000 psi when performing your thickness calculations.
Testing above 1.5 times MAWP can cause permanent yield of some components. Steam testing at 1.5 times MAWP can kill you.
Under steam, maximum boiler pressure accumulation is no more than 6 percent above the highest pressure at which any valve is set, or no more than 6 percent above MAWP.
For those who want to wade deep in the weeds for safety and relief valves... https://admiralvalve.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Tech-Reference.pdf
John
Wrong-- You need to put the rivets in the right spacing. If they are too close together or too close to the edge you weaken the metals holding strength . Maybe somebody on the forum can help you go that route. You are asking the right questions at the right time. Silver solder is the way I would go. Find a good heating and air conditioning guy who does that work to learn how to do it properly.As I'm on the road of building a boiler, I should ask this right now. If I completely rivet a boiler together and solder the seams with soft solder, it should be fine, right?
At the moment I do not have enough heat to properly solder a boiler of such size (3x7,8 inch, if I remember correctly). It's going to be fired with wood or charcoal, whatever I can get for a run.
The bushings could go pop though. Should I invest in another blowtorch and silver solder it or will soft solder do? I'm hoping to go up to 2 bar/29,4 PSI pressure with this boiler.
That has a lot to do with why I am doing all this. I thimpfks that with a steam engine that uses ANY kind of fuel, one can heat one's house, cook, and make eletricity and power. This includes hot water, of course, which we use for hot chocolatl, on cold days, and coffee or tea on regular days, or for washing and showers.Hi Richard. I have seen simple designs of water heater as a single coil of copper tube in the flue of the rocket stove.... As long as the water flow is pumped and controlled by output temperature - so the water doesn't boil - the articles all shout "success".
But in the UK we don't have free wood, just expensive gas.
K2
Do you actually make boilers? Have you got one to show? How do you fasten it? Do you weld it or silver solder? I intend to TIG one I have planned. I made a prototype, got it up to 100 psi, then eventually cut it into pieces. as I knew certain parts were inferioer. Also, I had stick welded it and could not get a leak out of it. The next one, will have very high quality parts, have the cuts, and chips done FAR better than before and the welds TIG.I normally get involved with steel boilers and not copper ones. I will add that in the US, the ASME code now only tests boilers such as those used in model steam engines at 1 1/2 times the calculated operating pressure that the weakest component computes to. Also the maximum pressure at least in Washington State for copper boiler is 100 psi. However, if the weakest component computes to less than 100 psi, then that will be the allowable maximum pressure. Note also that the ASME maximum material stress factor for copper in the calculations is 5,500 MAS. Mild steel plate (A36) is 14,500. So do the calculations and also I agree that silver solder is a must.
Could you guys clear something up for me?
I have been soldering jewelry for about 40 years using “silver solder”.
I buy it in sheets at the following melting points;
Easy 1240F 671C
Med 1275F 691C
Hard 1365F 741C
Plumbers, “silver solder” melts around 420-460F 220-240C
electrical solder (60/40) melts around 370F 188C
Which kind of “hard” and “soft” solder are you referring to?
I have hard soldered large copper pieces (1365F) and it takes a lot of heat, flux and patience!
the present way expensive gas is used is a farce, travesty or even a conspiracy. Most of the heat goes up the chimney when virtually ALL the heat could be harvested.
Thanx yew for that. You made me realize that at any opening on a steel boiler that I should weld a ring around that opening. For instance at the opening where I put water view tubes, pressure guages and steam pressure blow-offs, I should weld a ring around those holes. I never considered that before.Hi,
I know a lot of you guys have a lot of experience with boilers. I have some too. But only making small boilers for boats and bench, but not locos. (e.g. 3" or 4" diameter up to 6" long). I have also repaired old boilers - that were good - and destroyed some BAD boilers. My bible was the K. N. Harris book of model boiler making.
In the UK, as long as you have "a design" and can satisfy the examiner it is a sensible design, you can hydraulically test the "new" (or re-commissioned) boiler at 2 x NWP, then steam test at 1.5NWP, and if satisfied, the tester will issue a certificate witnessing those tests. He isn't saying it is safe, just that he has not seen anything he thinks is unsafe. He also checks safety valve operation, fixtures and fittings and water feed equipment.
Now, as I browse the net to improve my work, I found an article by Kozo Hiraoke in Live Steam and Outdoor Railroading. This was his attempt to rationalise everyone's individual ideas on what the ASME regs tell you that you must do, and are a lot more up-to-date than the ideas of my revered Mr. Harris. I strongly urge you to buy a back copy of the magazine - to print it and publish here would infringe lots of copyrights, so I won't go there. (The editor would block it anyway!).
But it is very simple: You can make safe and reliable copper boilers within the ASME regs: But limited to Silver Soldered boilers at up to 100psi MAWP (with properly designed joints).
However:
A few points NOT covered by Kozo-San:
So perhaps (like me until recently) these matters have been missed through simple ignorance "because we didn't know". Which is why I have had to de-rate some old boilers that were made to designs that do not meet a FOS of 8. (I am in the UK).
- The compressive strength of copper at around 400deg.F. - the temperature at steam pressure 100psi. - is only around 21% of the tensile strength. I have spent months searching for more information on the web, without success - to try and find how this should be applied to boilers we make for models. E.G. The flue tubes carrying hot gases through the boiler are in compression from the surrounding water + steam at pressure. Likewise fire-tubes in many commercial boilers and "amateur" boilers. And the "conventional" firebox in a cylindrical vertical boiler has the inner tube of the firebox in compression, from the water in the surrounding jacket. - SO it is necessary to do the sums (hoop stress) and make sure these items are thick enough for the stress - when also considering the clear directive from ASME that you must de-rate the permissible strength value with elevated temperature. This means that many of the designs of Mr Harris and others who designed boilers before the age of Regulations, are "no good" to the standards we live with today. But by increasing wall thicknesses we can make them OK.
- Similarly, my Engineering professional work (going back to the 1970s) meant I was also trying to understand how "ASME" an co. consider stress concentrations from "penetrations" in boiler shells when performing hoop stress calculations. My first move was my 1970s references - text books from 1930s - and simple diagrams and values of stress concentrations. This led me to SCF of 2.2 to 3.1 for various applications, until someone posted an ASME statement that "all penetrations shall be considered to have a stress concentration factor of 3.5". So that covers all the holes for bushes for safety valves, whistles, fire-holes to access fireboxes, Top -feeds for loco-boilers, etc. Yet I cannot find any reference in books by Mr. Harris et al to tell us the MODERN and Engineering approved (by ASME) method of doing designs with such penetrations.
But I suggest we Engineers should do our research and find out "what we don't know" and need to know, so we can guide and advise the "Newbees" correctly.
My final point is that correctly designed and Engineered boilers in "whatever material" are safe. The calculations and Regulations are there to ensure that. Ignore them at your peril. Even if you don't think they apply to you. The laws of physics and Engineering don't know you are exempt.
Here endeth the lesson.
Sorry if I prattle-on a bit, now shoot me down.
K2
I noticed that that article said this:My understanding is that some (many? most?) modern heating systems do indeed harvest the vast majority of the heat that would otherwise go up the chimney, with a resulting efficiency of up to 98.5% - only 1.5% of the heat value of the fuel is lost! Here's one of many articles that popped up in a search for "high efficiency gas furnace": High-efficiency furnace | Benefits and Value | Goodman
I called our local inspection and they said it’s too small to inspect unless it’s a fired boiler in and BC loses space like garage. Then maybe building inspector might recommend some thing bottom line just follow the local specs as they apply scaling down as needed essentially if it’s ok for air compressor it’s ok for model steam. Certainly don’t go for super high temps or pressures. A model steam rail road that pulls people is a different story. I think these guys have some other specifications. We visited several places that have these set up in our streetrods. There seemed to be much more safety in place automatically just by common sense. These guys are very fussy how their RR works and operate. We were impressed.I normally get involved with steel boilers and not copper ones. I will add that in the US, the ASME code now only tests boilers such as those used in model steam engines at 1 1/2 times the calculated operating pressure that the weakest component computes to. Also the maximum pressure at least in Washington State for copper boiler is 100 psi. However, if the weakest component computes to less than 100 psi, then that will be the allowable maximum pressure. Note also that the ASME maximum material stress factor for copper in the calculations is 5,500 MAS. Mild steel plate (A36) is 14,500. So do the calculations and also I agree that silver solder is a must.
It’s good to know that one has over designed something thanks I’m really new here so I appreciate any comments. I’m pretty excited as the engine kit is supposed to arrive Friday I just got the new boiler tube and gave my son he big chunk of aluminum to start making chips. The hardest part is not being able to dig in myself. I just spend money and gather parts. LOL I’ve yet to have a hobby that didn’t require this. Baseball it was hard to keep up with bat tech even wood bats are now super tech. Bam boo being the latest. Bam boo is an incredibly strong wood. Laminated with carbon fiber make a nearly un breakable bat. A $30 bat now costs $300. You need 3 of them . Why? You can only use one at a time? It’s come to. Need a base hit? Extra base hit? Or home run? Bat for each condition the issue is can you hit the ball in the first place ? Real good hitter has only 40% chance of A base hit let alone a long ball. We don’t get paid one dime to play senior ball . We bough our own equipment, including uniforms and yearly season charges. Almost as expensive as racing cars or building streetrods I’ve now got a whole season of steam toys already.I called our local inspection and they said it’s too small to inspect unless it’s a fired boiler in and BC loses space like garage. Then maybe building inspector might recommend some thing bottom line just follow the local specs as they apply scaling down as needed essentially if it’s ok for air compressor it’s ok for model steam. Certainly don’t go for super high temps or pressures. A model steam rail road that pulls people is a different story. I think these guys have some other specifications. We visited several places that have these set up in our streetrods. There seemed to be much more safety in place automatically just by common sense. These guys are very fussy how their RR works and operate. We were impressed.
otherwise you can spend hours calculating using Roarks engineering calculations. Some knowledge Of strength of materials is needed. The note above regarding placement of rivits is quite valid.
As former precision welder I can only say if you can’t produce a decent weld . Leave it to the experienced I did a lot of test welds in industry. Inspectors would come by and have you weld a test coupon representing current work. Better pass or it was off to be re taught and further testing
Byron
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