Bandsaw Question

[GrahamN]

Hi

I'm very new to metalworking (hoping to get my first lathe by Christmas), and I'm currently putting together my 'wish list' for tools etc.

One of the items I definately want is a small bandsaw for cutting thin steel, aluminium, brass etc. as I'm not able to cut using a manual saw for very long.

I've been looking at one from Chester (I'm in the UK), but I already do have a small woodworking bandsaw and I'm wondering if that would do for the small jobs I'm planning (3.5" model loco and small stationary engines)? The model is a Clarke CBS190, and I've found that 24tpi metal cutting blades are available in the correct size - is it as simple as replacing the blade?

Any advice is most welcome.

Many thanks

Graham

 

[firebird]

Hi Graham

I have one of the Chinese 6 x 4 metal cutting band saws. I was lucky enough to pick it up secondhand. If it ever gets beyond repair I would go straight out and buy another. They are honestly brilliant, you won't regret buying one although I have seen the smaller one offered by Chester I would definitely opt for the larger 6 x 4. Check out all the machine suppliers, machine mart, axminster, etc as they are often on offer. I have a wood cutting band saw as well and to be honest I wouldn't fancy cutting metal on it. They are not built as strong as the metal cutting ones.

Here's a photo of my mate Julian cutting out the sides of his traction engine on my band saw, it should give you some idea of size.



Cheers

Rich

 

[GrahamN]

Hi

Unfortunately it would be a long time before I could afford one of those! I have been saving for quite a while for the lathe as I am on a fairly small pension, so even the cheap bandsaw is probably 6 months or more away - hence my question about using my existing one to keep costs down at least in the short term. I just don't want to waste £12 on a blade if it's not going to work.

Thanks

Graham

 

[Noitoen]

I would think that if you can reduce the speed to cut metal you could get away with it. Maybe a different pulley arrangement.

 

[d.bick]

I'am lucky to have a large industrial bandsaw with high and low speeds. I cut Alum with the high speed and it also seems to cut brass O.K. But steel dose require a slower speed.
I also have one of the bandsaws shown in the picture and can also reccomend them for bar stock and for use in the upright position (as being used in the photo).
Dave Bick

 

[kcmillin]

Like Noitoen said, moving the motor and getting a belt and pully setup to decrease the speed of the blade would work. But you will have to get a metal cutting blade. Chances are you will not find the correct size, and you will have to get a blade cut and welded to the correct size. I would think that most welding shops are equipped to weld bandsaw blades, and could weld a blade for a very small fee.

Kel

 

[GWRdriver]

The 24T blade is good for thin materials down to say 1/16"/1.5mm but IMHO for general model engineering work you will get far more use and life out of 18T blades.

 

[Noitoen]

I have a small hand bandsaw that has an odd size blade. I get them bade to size at our local hardware shop and it´s bi-metal multi size tooth type. When they finally break they are really blunt and tired.

As a "trick" I have an old but still ok blade set aside in case I break a blade in the middle of a cut. The "ongoing" cut might ruin a new blade so I can finish the job with the worn blade case needed.

 

[arnoldb]

Hi Graham

Welcome to HMEM

If you're only looking at cutting thin metal for now, a variable speed jigsaw with the correct blades is a good option.

There are a lot of different blades available for it; it's inexpensive, and does a good job. Obviously the cuts are not ideal - it depends on how well you can control it - so there is most likely some finishing needed afterward, but for "in between" a manual hacksaw and a bandsaw, it is a good solution.

I've cut 6mm thick steel plate for sizes that won't fit on my bandsaw with my jigsaw with suitable and cheap bi-metal blades with no problem - and with much less sphincter factor than if I used an angle-grinder for the job.

Of course a bandsaw or power hacksaw is the ideal, but this might be an alternate option for you in the meantime.

Regards, Arnold

 

[cidrontmg]

Hi Graham,
I have an old B&D DN339 band saw, 3-wheel but essentially the same size as your Clarke. I use a 24-tooth blade, and routinely saw a lot of Al and brass with it. Al cuts about the same as equivalent thickness plywood, brass slightly slower. My saw has variable speed, so I can cut thin steel and stainless with some confidence, albeit slowly. I sometimes cut quite thick Al and brass, 50 mm / 2" Al blocks obviously take time, but it will cut them quite OK. The ready saw blades are carbon steel, I haven´t found bimetal blades which would be preferable, of course. You can solder/weld your own bimetal blades, but the material tends to be too wide.
I´d say you can do it, simply changing the blade. Just don´t push too hard, listen to the saw, it will tell you when it´s cutting happily ;D

 

[GrahamN]

Many thanks for your help.

I think I'm going to wait and see for the moment. I have enough saved to buy a mini lathe and a (very) small mill, and they seem to be the most important things. I will see how I get on with hand sawing (or possibly get my son to cut some bits when he visits!), and purchase a proper bandsaw later as I think otherwise I shall be spending cash which I'm better off putting towards the saw.

On a slightly different note, I am considering the C3 mini lathe and Super X1L mill from Arc Eurotrade - or equivalents from one of the other suppliers - but before ordering, I am planning to go the model engineering show in Sandown Park early December - does anyone know if there are likely to be show offers, discounts etc. there from any of the mini lathe suppliers?

Thanks again

Graham

 

[Tin Falcon]

I already do have a small woodworking bandsaw and I'm wondering if that would do for the small jobs I'm planning (3.5" model loco and small stationary engines)? The model is a Clarke CBS190, and I've found that 24tpi metal cutting blades are available in the correct size - is it as simple as replacing the blade?

The question with a band-saw is there blade speed. Mine from grizzly is geared down a bit and I use it for brass and aluminum on a regular basis. I do not use it for steel. Rule of thumb three teeth in contact with material. I have seen blades where folks ripped the teeth right off them.
Tin

 

[firebird]

Hi Graham

I have no connection with arc eurotrade other than a being a satisfied customer. I don't think arc will be at the Sandown show but you can certainly compare machines and prices. As far as I know the super X1 is only available from arc, the difference is the extra long table. My X1 came from Axminster power tools and had the standard table. When my mate Julian bought his from arc with the long table I had a go on his mill. The next week I went to arc and bought a long table and leadscrew for mine, believe me it transforms the machine and is a must have. You can find the price for the table and leadscrew on arcs web site but I think you would be better off to buy the machine from arc. The C3 lathe is a good little machine but like all the chinese machines it will need to be prepared and fettled a bit, once again visit arcs website where you will find detailed descriptions of how to do it. Finally arc have there own workshops and stores and carry all the spare parts for these machines. Hope this helps.

Cheers

Rich

 

[Dunc]

Here are a couple of methods to reduce a wood bandsaw's blade speed found in old issues of Popular Science (Feb 1960) & Popular Mechanics (June 1950):


http://books.google.com/books?id=vy...ce=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false

http://books.google.com/books?id=T9...ce=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false