Oh yes, harder to machine materials require greater attention to the rules!
Some pics of my workshop
- Thread starter HennieL
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BaronJ
Grumpy Old Git.
I hate stainless... A friend has said to me a few times, if you want some I've got plenty. He seems to be able to machine it like it was EN1
HennieL
Well-Known Member
OK, let's get back to the shop...
Being the type that believes in having a place for every thing, and everything in it's place, one of the best purchases for my shop was this tool trolley, that also doubles as my TIG welding cart:
My "general" lathe tools are in the first drawer:
My quick-change toolholders (Swiss type) and boring bar holders are in drawer no 2:
All the drill chucks and lathe cutters and bits are in no 3:
I have a weak spot for drills, as can be seen in drawer no 4:
Drawer number 5 is for my measuring tools:
No 6 is for all my TIG and other welding "stuff":
The change wheels and steadies (and a few other odds and ends) are in drawer no 7:
And the deep drawer no 8 houses my TIG foot control, the lathe face plate and four-position tool post, and some gloves:
And the large vertical section on the right is used to store my welding helmet, ventilator and four-jaw chuck (when it's not on my lathe, which is not very often...)
Being the type that believes in having a place for every thing, and everything in it's place, one of the best purchases for my shop was this tool trolley, that also doubles as my TIG welding cart:
My "general" lathe tools are in the first drawer:
My quick-change toolholders (Swiss type) and boring bar holders are in drawer no 2:
All the drill chucks and lathe cutters and bits are in no 3:
I have a weak spot for drills, as can be seen in drawer no 4:
Drawer number 5 is for my measuring tools:
No 6 is for all my TIG and other welding "stuff":
The change wheels and steadies (and a few other odds and ends) are in drawer no 7:
And the deep drawer no 8 houses my TIG foot control, the lathe face plate and four-position tool post, and some gloves:
And the large vertical section on the right is used to store my welding helmet, ventilator and four-jaw chuck (when it's not on my lathe, which is not very often...)
HennieL
Well-Known Member
And in case you're wondering, my spanners and other "general" small tools are stored in a wooden cupboard that used to be mounted over my wooden work bench, but because of having to re-arrange my garage to accommodate the lathe is now only mounted over my car 
Richard Hed
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You are so organized, how can you ever find anything?And in case you're wondering, my spanners and other "general" small tools are stored in a wooden cupboard that used to be mounted over my wooden work bench, but because of having to re-arrange my garage to accommodate the lathe is now only mounted over my car
View attachment 116531
HennieL
Well-Known Member
Richard, that's the only way that I DO find anything.
I just hate it to look for a missing tool, and as I posted earlier in this thread, I have some nasty gremlins living in my workshop who likes nothing better than to hide my tools if I don't put them away after use.
simonbirt
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Just came across your picture of your power feed for your mill. I like the idea of a tumbler reverse gear. Could you perhaps post some pictures showing the details?
BaronJ
Grumpy Old Git.
Hi Simon,
Yes I can post some pictures of my mill table feed ! Though you do need to be aware that apart from the salvaged window screen wiper motor everything was scavenged from scrapped equipment, printers, photocopiers and the like.
This is a drawing of the tumbler design. The large gear is the one on the end of the table lead screw that replaces the handle. The three smaller gears are shown inside a circle and not a gear. The center one is the gear fitted onto the wiper motor drive shaft, and the two smaller gears are the pair the actually do the tumbling to reverse the table direction.
I haven't done it but one of those two gears could be larger than the other which will give you different speeds in the other table direction. I considered that having two different table speeds in each direction could cause problems and confusion.
I've other pictures that I can post, but must emphasize that it is unlikely that you would be able to salvage the same four gears that I did, so treat any sizes as a guide !
goldstar31
Well-Known Member
In a fit of I am not sure now, I bought an Align thing for my Warco ( probably Chinese) mill drill. Again, in another phase of the Moon, I bought a DRO for the Myford lathe. Probably it was for my almost non existent eye sight- and one of my good close friends, having unload d quite a lot of money etc to the families and various charities- it was 'my turn'
Living alone , being sort of ancient and bogged down for the last 7-8 months now and seemingly a continuing lock down, the question of keeping sane exists for not only me - but the rest of those who live- laughingly in what is called 'the twilight of life'. I confess that I have never consumed so much alcohol.
Another ( very dim) Moonbeam from a Lesser Lunacy
Norman
Living alone , being sort of ancient and bogged down for the last 7-8 months now and seemingly a continuing lock down, the question of keeping sane exists for not only me - but the rest of those who live- laughingly in what is called 'the twilight of life'. I confess that I have never consumed so much alcohol.
Another ( very dim) Moonbeam from a Lesser Lunacy
Norman
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ajoeiam
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Sir - - - - I don't see a dead blow hammer in your collection - - - - would suggest you obtain one post haste (grin!)
In my view a DRO on the X/Y axis of the Myford is the best upgrade I have made. Being able to zero, select rad or dia and being able to switch from mm to imperial is a great time saver. The cross slide scale is machined into the casting so there is no scale to interfere with machining. My next great upgrade was to fit a 3 axis DRO to my Warco mill. This came with almost half a turn of backlash and an impossible scale. The DRO solved all the problems and makes it a very usable tool. The DRO came from Machine-DRO. The mill uses optical and the Myford used magnetic scales.
HennieL. Do you have a long stand in the corner? Or a sky hook outside? You seem to be short of nothing. I am just short of space, although when I look at the night sky there is plenty just out of reach! Maybe I'm on another planet? Or off my rocker?
Good to see you pics!
K
Good to see you pics!
K
goldstar31
Well-Known Member
i agree with Mike having fitted a Machin-DRO to my Myford Super7B PXF.
There is only one demerit and that is prior to all this, I never realised how inaccurate my machining was.
whilst I have these little Chinese linear scales o my Mill/Drill, I'm seriously thing of having 'proper' ones
I'm still learning
There is only one demerit and that is prior to all this, I never realised how inaccurate my machining was.
whilst I have these little Chinese linear scales o my Mill/Drill, I'm seriously thing of having 'proper' ones
I'm still learning
simonbirt
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Brilliant thank you, some pictures would be good. I may make the gears. I like the tumbler reverse idea as it is very simple and robust. I was going to use a clutch of some sort but with a tumbler gear no need.
BaronJ
Grumpy Old Git.
Hi Simon,
I would be interested to know if you are going to use a window screen wiper motor in yours.
Ok, this is the drawing for the drive end of the table on my mill. Just for reference my mill is a Chinese copy of a Optimum BF20LB, which is the long bed version.
This is the drawing for the salvaged plastic gear that I used to drive the table. I made a brass center piece to fit the 10 mm diameter end of the table lead screw. This gear replaces the handle that was on the end.
This drawing was of the hub that I made to support the plastic disc that I used to mount the tumbler gears on. The plastic disc was a piece of the end of a 60 mm diameter conveyor roller. I think that it was carbon loaded PVC.
Lunch time, I'll post more later.
BaronJ
Grumpy Old Git.
I'm not sure what is going on when I try to edit my original post, it simply disappears.
BaronJ
Grumpy Old Git.
Hi Simon, Guys,
Sorry about dashing off, when my wife has cooked a lunch I've got to go before it get cold.
I'll try again !
Some more pictures:-
This is a drawing showing the measurements of my table.
This is a better drawing of the tumbler gear arrangement, with the sizes of the gears that I used. Note that the two small gears mesh along the horizontal line. The position where the lever is horizontal is the neutral position where the top small gear just clears the main gear in the center.
This picture shows how the tumbler gears were mounted on the thick Nylon 60 piece. The nylon plug with a small threaded hole in it is a dummy piece, the whole part pivots on the end of the mill table casting. The screw on the left is the stop screw limiting the movement of the Nylon piece.
This shows the mechanism that I used to obtain three gear positions. The selector plunger simply drops into a notch. You can see the green lines indicating the three positions.
The three pillars are the mountings for the wiper motor.
I have some more pictures if you want them.
Sorry about dashing off, when my wife has cooked a lunch I've got to go before it get cold.
I'll try again !
Some more pictures:-
This is a drawing showing the measurements of my table.
This is a better drawing of the tumbler gear arrangement, with the sizes of the gears that I used. Note that the two small gears mesh along the horizontal line. The position where the lever is horizontal is the neutral position where the top small gear just clears the main gear in the center.
This picture shows how the tumbler gears were mounted on the thick Nylon 60 piece. The nylon plug with a small threaded hole in it is a dummy piece, the whole part pivots on the end of the mill table casting. The screw on the left is the stop screw limiting the movement of the Nylon piece.
This shows the mechanism that I used to obtain three gear positions. The selector plunger simply drops into a notch. You can see the green lines indicating the three positions.
The three pillars are the mountings for the wiper motor.
I have some more pictures if you want them.
simonbirt
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Hello Baron,
This is really helpful. Not sure about the motor yet, there are many options. I will look forward to part two.
Regards,
Simon
BaronJ
Grumpy Old Git.
Hi Simon, Guys,
I'm not sure what happened to my post with the first pictures in it repeated multiple times and the system blanking the post not letting me remove them.
Some more pictures, these are of the dog clutch mechanism for selecting the direction with the tumbler gears.
This picture shows the piece with the dog teeth in it. The length of bar is threaded with a coarse thread and screwed into the Nylon 60 plastic block. The 2.5 mm hole in that bar is for the pin that the spring bears against to hold the dogs into the teeth.
These two pictures show the completed handle assembly for the dog clutch. The black plastic part was machined from Acetal rod and the end cap was a bit parted of a piece of nylon rod and glued onto the end of the rod pressed into a recess.
This is the end of the sleeve with 3 mm diameter steel pins pressed into a brass collar soft soldered onto the brass sleeve. Note in the next picture the slits in the brass sleeve. This was done because the brass sleeve was a poor fit on the 1/4" steel rod used as the tumbler operating lever.
The pillars that you can see here were used to hold the mounting plate for the wiper motor.
You can get an idea of how thick the tube was from the legs on the left hand side. They were used to prevent rotation of the dogs inside the toothed part. The slot in the tube was for the spring retaining pin could be pressed into the hole in the lever.
This was a fiddly component to make but it works extremely well.
Hope this helps.
I'm not sure what happened to my post with the first pictures in it repeated multiple times and the system blanking the post not letting me remove them.
Some more pictures, these are of the dog clutch mechanism for selecting the direction with the tumbler gears.
This picture shows the piece with the dog teeth in it. The length of bar is threaded with a coarse thread and screwed into the Nylon 60 plastic block. The 2.5 mm hole in that bar is for the pin that the spring bears against to hold the dogs into the teeth.
These two pictures show the completed handle assembly for the dog clutch. The black plastic part was machined from Acetal rod and the end cap was a bit parted of a piece of nylon rod and glued onto the end of the rod pressed into a recess.
This is the end of the sleeve with 3 mm diameter steel pins pressed into a brass collar soft soldered onto the brass sleeve. Note in the next picture the slits in the brass sleeve. This was done because the brass sleeve was a poor fit on the 1/4" steel rod used as the tumbler operating lever.
The pillars that you can see here were used to hold the mounting plate for the wiper motor.
You can get an idea of how thick the tube was from the legs on the left hand side. They were used to prevent rotation of the dogs inside the toothed part. The slot in the tube was for the spring retaining pin could be pressed into the hole in the lever.
This was a fiddly component to make but it works extremely well.
Hope this helps.
BaronJ
Grumpy Old Git.
Is anybody else having issues with editing their posts ?
The instant I click on the post it vanishes !
The instant I click on the post it vanishes !
