Anybody want to guess---

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If you wanted to try it. You could put a case hardened surface on those steel pieces.



Back to lurking in the shadows,
Kermit
 
Kermit said:
If you wanted to try it. You could put a case hardened surface on those steel pieces.



Back to lurking in the shadows,
Kermit

Kermit--Without investing in a heat treat oven and a batch of Casenite, its not likely to happen. If I thought it was necessary to have then hardened, I could have made then from 01 or A2 or M2. For a cheap little "show and tell" project that only gets run 10 minutes at a time, I don't think its worth the investment. I think I remember at one time learning that on parts as small as these valves that its very difficult to case harden them---The part is so small that the case hardening goes all the way through, without leaving an unhardened center, and as a consequence, the parts become very brittle, almost like glass.
 
WEBSTERENGINEASEMBLED-2.jpg


WEBSTER ENGINE ASEMBLED.JPG
 
Sounds like he was standing on the flywheel (and cam gear and valve assembly) side of the engine when he wrote the instructions. That's where I would have been...

Also, most videos I've seen of the Webster running show it running counter clockwise when viewed from the Flywheel side. Easier to start that way...

Chuck

 
That's it Brian, the Webster runs clockwise to this illustration for the reason Chuck gave. Finger starting from top of flywheel to the rear of engine. Dave.
 
Todays offering is pretty meager---a pair of "valve spring keeper plates". This is about as small a part as I ever really want to make, at 1/4" diameter x 3/32" long. And if you look at the background, you will see that even I, the Solidworks Guru will occasionally resort to Crap-O-Cad. (Although I'm not anywhere close to the talent exhibited by some of the other members on this board!!!)
VALVESPRINGKEEPERS001.jpg

VALVESPRINGKEEPERS002.jpg
 
Chuck and Longboy---Thank you for your answers. Other than the carburetor adapter and the various grease cups, I'm starting to run out of pieces to make. My gears are on order, but the person I spoke to in Canada who reps for Berg said to expect a 2 to 3 week delivery. Hopefully, that will give me lots of time to finish everything else before they show up. Chuck, you're doing some marvelous work with your carburetor research. I think I will probably buy a carb when the time comes, unless you get your prototype to work out the way you are happy with it. Then I might "borrow" your design.
 
Brian Rupnow said:
Chuck and Longboy---Thank you for your answers. Other than the carburetor adapter and the various grease cups, I'm starting to run out of pieces to make. My gears are on order, but the person I spoke to in Canada who reps for Berg said to expect a 2 to 3 week delivery. Hopefully, that will give me lots of time to finish everything else before they show up. Chuck, you're doing some marvelous work with your carburetor research. I think I will probably buy a carb when the time comes, unless you get your prototype to work out the way you are happy with it. Then I might "borrow" your design.

Brian, you and others on the board are more than welcome to my designs. I'm still thrashing about with different ideas. I'm going to try a vapor fuel tank with a larger surface area to see if I can make the mixture richer. I'm also going to try some other carb stuff, including gbritnell's design. I'm not giving up until I get that plumbing engine running like a clock!

Chuck
 
Brian and Chuck;

Still following along and appreciate all the stuff you guys put into your posts. It is going to make my build much less confusing.

That is all. Carry on.
 
Brian,

I bored the venturi on my carb out to 5/32" today and tried out the carb again. It's less sensitive now and seems to run pretty consistently now. I'll test it some more tomorrow and let you know how it looks.

I don't believe that I'm going to need an air bleed for the idle. Well let you know after more testing. There also doesn't seem to be any tendency for the throttle barrel to come out, even though I don't have anything holding it in. I may still look at installing some kind of idle stop. Right now the barrel is free to turn completely around.

By they way, have you identified a carburetor to buy if it comes to that? Where would you get it?

Thx...
Chuck
 
Hi Brian
this may be to little to late to help but I turned the valves for mine from the bolts out of concrete fastners, u know the type with a hard bolt that pulls up into a tube.
anyway looking great Mate
Cheers Pete.
 
Looking great Brain, getting close to the end, don't let that yellow car take you away before you finish, can't Waite to see it run, thanks again for sharing knowledge and how to's with the pictures, Lathe Nut
 
Aha---Now if I only had some music wire---I went to Partsource today and bought the smallest can of fine valve grinding compound I could buy, and I expect I have enough left over to do 6000 more small engines like this!!! The "handles" left on the valves worked really great to hang onto while I was lapping the valves and seats, and it really did make a big difference in how well the valves seal (As determined by puckered lips blowing though passages while opening and closing valves before and after.) I drilled the 0.040" cross holes in the valve stems without mishap (Which kind of amazed me, because I don't think I ever drilled a hole that small in anything before.), then cut the "handles off with the bandsaw and dressed the head of the cut off valve on my 1" HockShop belt sander.---Where do you go to buy 1" of music wire???
VALVEBLOCKFINISHED002.jpg
 
Chuck---I haven't got the faintest darned idea about where to buy a carb. I've been putting it off, but from what I gather, I need to start with a hobby shop that sells radio controlled airoplanes or tether cars, or model race boats. When I get some information, I will post about it here.
 
I was at Pinnacle Hobby store in Markham last week and I saw they sell all kinds of R/C carbs starting at $20. I am sure there are some R/C hobby stores up in your area.


IronHorse
 
-Where do you go to buy 1" of music wire???

Your friendly local K&S stockist should have it or, oddly enough, a music store - guitar strings are made of the stuff. Don't think you will buy 1" tho'
 
I just checked my invoice from this morning when I bought the 0.040" drills. At 77 cents each, think I'll just sacrifice one of them. There is enough unfluted shank to make the two pieces I need to hold the "Keepers" in place.
 

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