Another PeeWee

[e.picler]

Hello people!
I touched the PeeWee this evening again.
I advanced the distributor to around 35 degrees and it started to respond to the throttle but not good enough (thanks Steve).
It is now running for a longer time but not much and no low idle.
What is the normal idle RPM for the PeeWee? For those that have built it.

Edi

 

[stevehuckss396]

Edi

you will probably need to get a few hours of running on the engine to loosen it up before you get the low idle. with rubber rings the friction my be higher than a cast ring and effect the idle. you will just need to be patient and see what happens.

 

[awake]

Edi! Check into the George Trimble method. If you do what Bob says it will most likely cause a flat spot at the point where the ring is heated. Then when the ring is installed it will leave a gap in that spot. Rind will not touch the wall in that spot. George's method will show how to make a fixture to spread the gap but avoid the flat spot.

Can anyone point me to where I can read about the George Trimble method? Is it a thread in this forum, or a book, or ??

Many thanks!

 

[stevehuckss396]

Strictly I. C. Magazine

http://www.strictlyic.com/

DESIGN & FABRICATION OF PISTON RINGS,
by the late George Trimble.
The EPITOME of miniature engine ring manufacture.
Issues # 7,8 & 9 … $8.00 ea. ….. TOTAL: $24.00

 

[awake]

Thank you!

 

[e.picler]

Hi Steve!
You are absolutely right. It is getting more stable running every day. It already showed some idle.
Tomorrow I will post the new video.

I just found today that there is some problem with the water channels, it seems to be clogged. I will need to remove the heads to understand what is going on.

Edi

 

[sition]

Hi Edi！
I suggest you put the O-ring in the second ring, so that the O-ring can get enough lubrication, reduce friction and improve service life.

 

[Cogsy]

It's sounding great in the first videos already Edi. Congrats on a runner (and I'm looking forward to move videos).

 

[awake]

I need to apologize - I jumped in with an off-tangent question, and totally neglected to congratulate Edi on the excellent work. As an IC-model-engine-maker-wannabe (IMEMW??), I am inspired by the incredible work that goes into an engine like this. Thanks, Edi, for providing the documentation on your build - I'm nowhere near trying to tackle something like this, but reading through the progression of a build like this is so helpful in gaining a sense of the challenges and trouble-shooting that goes into a build.

Thanks, Edi!

 

[e.picler]

That's OK Awake. Don't mind!
Thanks for the words, I'm still learning with the great people here.

Edi

 

[e.picler]

Hi!
I'm getting water on the oil pan and I can't find where it is leaking. Scratching my head!!!!!
I already sealed the OD of the liners to the wall of the block holes.

Any ideas where it could be leaking water into the block/oil pan?

Thanks,
Edi

 

[stevehuckss396]

head gaskets?

pull the oilpan and spin the pump with a drill medium slow and see if a leak presents itself.

 

[e.picler]

Hi Steve!
I did that. I installed the heads back on the block, without the pistons and crankshaft.
I used a Dremel to spin the pump shaft. I found that the water is leaking in the wall of the camshaft tunnel through the porosity of the casting.
Now, to not scrap the block, I got find a way to fix it. Maybe a kind of paste glue or....

Thanks Steve.

Edi

 

[john futter]

Thourouly dry your casting in the oven
Apply loctite 290 (used to be called superwick in) apply pressure /vacuum depending on which is easier to drive the 290 into the casting voids. This will last a lifetime unless you get acetone near it

 

[e.picler]

Hi John!
Thank you for the suggestion.
I have tested again after using industrial Epoxy and did not work.
I will follow Steve's suggestion to rebore the cam tunnel and press a tube with Loctite and then ream the bore back to the final bearing diameter (16mm).

PS. I just received the brass materials for the Radiator

Thanks,
Edi

 

[e.picler]

Hi to all!
Reworking the block trying to fix the water liking ito the oil pan do to the porosity of the casting.
Reboring the tunnel

Turning the tube/bushing I used 0,02mm interference

Pressed the bushing into the rebored tunnel

Ready to redrilling all the holes

I hope it fixes the water liking

Edi

 

[e.picler]

Hello to all!

I finally could test if the water leaking into the oil pan did work.

Yes, it worked with the jacket installed on the camshaft tunnel.
I have modified the way the water is transferred to the right block bank. Please see the photos bellow.

Worked greatly

Edi

 

[e.picler]

Hi! Here is a video after fixing the water leaking to the oil pan.


Adjusting the carb. to respond to throtle


Next step is to build the radiator.

Edi

 

[e.picler]

Hi again!
I had a very hard time to make the PeeWee run properly. It insisted of running only with 3 cylinders. The cylinder number 4 was not firing.
I have checked the timing several times in order to make sure it was correct.

I also checked the point of distributor. Everything was correct. So, I scratched my head to find what was causing the cylinder 4 not fire (valves was OK too).


By chance I discovery two different information on the plans I received form Dirk regarding the position of the distributor rotor in relation to the number 1 cylinder on the distributor cap.

This one says to align on the tail of the rotor contact.

This one says to align on the leading edge of the rotor contact.

First I have set to the tail of the rotor contact (first photo). That was the problem.
After I have set acording to the second photo, (leading edge), the engine started to run fine

Many, many hours to find it out.

Thanks,

Edi

 

[awake]

Beautiful!

The shaft driven by the rubber belt (o-ring) - that is driving the water pump, correct? Is it driving anything else?