1/4 Galloway Hit and Miss engine

[marksavoca]

Starting with the raw casting

IMG_6972 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I tried to get it as true as possible using the rough casting.

IMG_6975 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I then bored the inside so I would have a better spot to hold on.

IMG_6977 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Flipped it around and trued up again.

IMG_6978 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Machined the outside, drilled and tapped.

IMG_6980 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_6984 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

For the second half, I mounted back on the three jaw and trued.

IMG_7002 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_7005 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I machined a small lip so I could turn it around and machine the inside surface.

IMG_7007 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_7008 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_7012 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

On to the rotary table to drill the holes

IMG_7015 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Some temporary bolts.

IMG_7018 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Sitting in place.

IMG_7024 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

 

[marksavoca]

Up next is the fuel tank. I see many people make very nice brass tanks but most of the pictures of real Galloways look to have a galvanized tank. So I went for a more rustic and perhaps realistic look.

For the end caps I used 3" stove pipe caps. I soldered a short piece of stove pipe between them.

IMG_7031 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

A plate to attach to the base.

IMG_7071 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_7082 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Sitting in place

IMG_7076 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I bought some fuel tank sealer to seal any pin holes. Poured in, rotated, drained excess and let dry.

 

[marksavoca]

I was excited to see the ignitor work, so I wanted to make the coil. After some online research I started to build. The basic plan is short (~2.5inch) segments of coat-hanger wire, wrapped with ~200ft of 18 gauge coated wire.

I found some plastic plugs that would hold the ~1/2 core.

IMG_7130 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I cut down the plugs to be just long enough to get through the 1/4" wood. Cut the coat hanger, and used a couple of nails (I don't have many metal coat hangers any more, they are all plastic...)

IMG_7135 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I wrapped the core in clear packing tape, and I used the cut of parts of the plug to hold the core together.

IMG_7136 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

This allowed me to pour polyurethane in the core. This is recommended based on my readings.

IMG_7138 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Needs some time to dry...

IMG_7142 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Ready to be wrapped.

IMG_7163 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_7166 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I turned the lathe head with one hand and kept pressure and guided with the other hand.

IMG_7169 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

After each pass I wrapped with a layer of clear packing tape.

IMG_7171 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_7173 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

For the test I held it together with a clamp.

IMG_7182 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I used a 9.6v RC car battery.

Nice spark! If you click the below image it should take you to a short video.

IMG_7178 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

 

[marksavoca]

Starting with the casting.

IMG_7198 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_7201 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_7206 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_7210 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_7218 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Checking fit

IMG_7223 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Following others advise, I put a small steel tip on it.

IMG_7251 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_7254 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Soldered in place.

IMG_7257 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

ground back to size.

IMG_7261 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Machined groove for pin.

IMG_7268 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Sitting in place.

IMG_7274 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

 

[marksavoca]

Not really exciting, but needs to get done.

IMG_7277 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I purchased the valve and coupler and made a custom length of pipe to connect them.

 

[marksavoca]

Haven't posted in a while, so here is the latest. Getting close to being complete.

Built some of the hardware, pins and screws.

IMG_7298 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_7389 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_7391 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_7393 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I also drilled and tapped the flywheels for setscrews.

IMG_8104 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Mounting the trip lever

IMG_8278 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Gaskets
IMG_8303 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_8305 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Moving to the garage to get it running...

IMG_8300 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

 

[marksavoca]

I can't see any markings on the cam gear to align to the crank gear. There are some diagrams that show the cam at tdc and -8 deg.

I could see fuel being 'pushed' out of the carb on compression stroke. Time to try and seat the valves better.

This time I used Bon Ami cleaner with a little water. I tried a few ways to rotate the valve and apply pressure. I found pulling and twisting from the steam to work best.

I used nail polish remover to verify the valves were sealed.

After a bunch of fussing I'm starting to get close to running.

It seems like it is not developing enough power.

I removed the spring from the bottom of the mixer.

It runs for only a few seconds. Click the below image to see the video.

IMG_8748 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Tomorrow I plan on cleaning the ignitor and buying some fresh fuel (Coleman camping fuel). I'm not sure if it goes bad, but this is a couple of years old. I originally tried regular gas, but the camp fuel seems to do a little better.

 

[Jasonb]

Put your ground wire a lot closer to the ignitor, preferably on one of the studs that hold it to the cylinder, with it on the pipe there is a lot of resistance & joints for the current to flow through.

Make sure your governor is not latching too early, better to get it running fast without missing and then slacken off the governor spring to slow things down.

 

[marksavoca]

Thanks Jason for the advice! New fuel and better ground seems to have done the trick. Still less power and I need to adjust the governor, but I'm very pleased!

Some videos (click to view):

IMG_8748 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_8803 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_8815 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_8816 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_8822 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

 

[marksavoca]

I'm a bit behind on posting... Sorry about that. Here is the last set.

I decided that I've seen more rusty old engines than clean, fresh ones so I went with an aged look.

I also created a small box to house the coil and battery.

The paint technique was to paint a rust colored layer, wet, cover with salt, dry and spray the color. After the salt is washed off you get a very random, aged paint look.

All of the unpainted surfaces were aged with vinegar, hydrogen peroxide and salt.

I put grease on any surface that I did not want rusted.

IMG_9012 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_9013 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_9030 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_9370 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_9385 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_9402 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_9429 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_9430 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_9447 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_9459 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_9477 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_9557 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_9571 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_9577 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_9566 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

IMG_9599 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

 

[Jasonb]

That's a good barn fresh look, makes a change from the immaculately painted ones we usually see. Just the cross head screws in the box hinges that give the game away

 

[kuhncw]

Nicely done. It was painful to see your finely machined parts rusting in that chemical bath, but your end result came out very well. You've certainly achieved a well weathered look and that must have been more difficult than a shiny and bright finish.

Chuck

 

[Cogsy]

I wondered about your approach to finishing as you described it, but I can't argue with the result - looks like the real deal. Nice!

 

[Blogwitch]

Beautiful piece of weathering work there Mark.

Having built scale model boats for many many years I can appreciate the work that is involved getting that scale look, in fact, sometimes, it takes as long to get that finish than it usually does to make the model.

Absolutely wonderful


John

 

[MRA]

That looks really great. I was almost imagining you setting to with a #80 drill bit to add scale woodworm holes to the skid and box

I reckon a heavy box like that with big hinges, full-scale, would use square-head coach screws to hold them on. That might not be impossible to scale down?

cheers
Mark