Yet Another Webster Begins

[Tim1974]

Keep at it bob looking good I’m enjoying the build

 

[stevehuckss396]

You're not done yet. You still need to shape the nose to eliminate the sharp corners. Most commonly done with a file.

 

[CFLBob]

You're not done yet. You still need to shape the nose to eliminate the sharp corners. Most commonly done with a file.

For sure. There's a bit of a bur along all the edges, too. That's almost right off the fixture. I just barely cleaned it up.

 

[CFLBob]

I'm getting to choices that affect the parts I build. One of those is electronic ignition. I know I've seen some use of those on a Webster instead of points and capacitor but can't seem to find a thread.

Can someone please direct me to a thread that contains this, so I can figure out what I need to change? Any recommendations on the electronic ignition?

I know I'm going with a Traxxas 4033 carb and will make something like the carb adapter on sheet 14.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Get hold of Roy Sholl at S & S engineering. He has everything you need if you want electronic ignition.

 

[CFLBob]

Get hold of Roy Sholl at S & S engineering. He has everything you need if you want electronic ignition.

Thanks, Brian. Found them and will send Roy an email.

Did you happen to see the PM I sent you?

 

[Brian Rupnow]

CFLBob--No, I didn't see it. There is something not right about the private message function on this site. i will look for it.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Bob--I lost all of my Webster files in a computer crash a couple of years ago. I did find the message you sent me. What exactly did you want drawings of? I still have the original plans downloaded from the internet. If it's only the valve I can do up a drawing for you very quickly, no charge. I'm not real certain what you are looking for.

 

[CFLBob]

I was looking for a tutorial on how you make the valves and valve cages, but I think I found one about the valves since I wrote. I found a post you did (2016?) on making valves for another engine. I basically copied that off into a Word document on my PC and put images inline.

The parts are all different from the Webster, but I think the method for making the smaller pistons would transfer.

 

[minh-thanh]

CFLBob !

https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/introducing-the-steel-webster.31993/page-3

 

[CFLBob]

Thanks, Minh Thanh. Looks useful.

I've seen the thread, but it didn't come up in my searches.

 

[a41capt]

I was looking for a tutorial on how you make the valves and valve cages, but I think I found one about the valves since I wrote. I found a post you did (2016?) on making valves for another engine. I basically copied that off into a Word document on my PC and put images inline.

The parts are all different from the Webster, but I think the method for making the smaller pistons would transfer.

Bob,
Brian’s method of turning the valve stem, or for that matter ANY thin part on the lathe, is the best idea since sliced bread! While you’re making your valves, and before tearing down your turning setup, I would suggest making a third valve and converting it to a valve seat cutter by adding some cutting edges into the valve face. Far better that attempting to cut the valve cages accurately on the lathe, and decreases the issues of “leaky valves” when you’re attempting to get your first ”pop”after completion!

John W

 

[CFLBob]

What a day. I've been working but haven't had anything complete enough to post pictures of. I ran a thread about how my drill chuck was falling off its taper way too often and got some suggestions that seem to have fixed it. Then I broke one of my important drill bits in my #1-60 set and had to order a replacement set. Today, I came back here to post the latest advancement on my Webster and find I'm locked out of everything. Every place said I didn't have privileges to post. It said my email didn't work. First I've heard of it. Too bad the hundred spams a day I get don't know it doesn't work. That would save a lot of hassle.

Did you know that if that happens there is no way to ask for help? I was still logged in it just wouldn't let me do anything. I had to use an old, rarely used email address I have to be allowed to post this.

The temporary screws are just to hold the parts together for this picture. I think there's a few different pieces of hardware I need to order for this. Time to get an order together from Bolt Depot or someone.

On to the valves and the valve cages.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

CFLBob--just a heads up---You will suffer greatly if you don't put gaskets between all three pieces. A piece of brown paper bag with grease on it will do. If you try to use any of the conventional gasket goo's, it will squeeze out on the inside and bugger up how your valves seal.

 

[awake]

Brian, interesting point. On my Webster, I had assumed I would need to use some sort of gaskets, and was trying to find something thin enough not to throw off the compression too much. I'm glad to know about the brown paper bag & grease solution!

But as it worked out, I wound up not using gaskets on any of my Webster. Instead, I used a succession of wet/dry sandpaper on a piece of glass (for flatness) and polished all of the mating faces in the valve block and between the block and the head. To my pleasant surprise, I succeeded in getting good compression without gaskets!

Of course, whether or not I would get that lucky the next time around is up for considerable debate ...

 

[CFLBob]

CFLBob--just a heads up---You will suffer greatly if you don't put gaskets between all three pieces. A piece of brown paper bag with grease on it will do. If you try to use any of the conventional gasket goo's, it will squeeze out on the inside and bugger up how your valves seal.

Thanks! Without the valves and valve cages, it's a ways from done.

I just wonder if there are any brown paper bags around anymore. My groceries have been in plastic only for years.

 

[Sprocket]

Try Permatex " Form-A-Gasket" available in the hardware store. Paste stuff that seals very well. Just have to be careful not to overdo it (like everything else) so it doesn't plug your openings.
Doug

 

[werowance]

i also did not have to use gaskets on the valve blocks. once the cages were pressed and locked tighted in place i used a improvised surface plate and sand paper as well just like awake describes above which brought the cages down to the same as the aluminum blocks. used a little blue to tell when i just hit home with them. they sealed up just fine. i was surprised about that but it did work.

 

[werowance]

here are some pics that might help.

post 198 on my build
https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/werowance-builds-a-webster.30772/post-326612
but id say grease soaked paper would make good gaskets as Brian said if you do need them. but with the surface plate they sealed up nicely for me.

 

[werowance]

oh, and sorry for posting so much but one more thing, Brian gave me some direction on a jig to hold the crank pin in place to drill the hole in the flywheel for timing. it worked great. its in my build but i think it was an awesome trick he gave me.