Have you considered a sprang or one way clutch for your starter? They work well and are widely used. BOCA bearings is a good source.
Yet Another Webster Begins
- Thread starter CFLBob
- Start date
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I've never heard of them! Time to go do some reading.
Maybe some one with CAD skills can provide a quick drawing of how to make these work, they really are the cats meow.
On my hit and miss engines I use a female clutch in the drill and engage the end of the crank shaft or a crank extension if too short. The clutches are supposed to run on a hardened shaft but you can get away with a non hardened shaft for a while, then sleeve it with a a hardened collar.
On my hit and miss engines I use a female clutch in the drill and engage the end of the crank shaft or a crank extension if too short. The clutches are supposed to run on a hardened shaft but you can get away with a non hardened shaft for a while, then sleeve it with a a hardened collar.
Yeah, some idea of how they work and how to use one is what I'm looking for. Boca Bearings is where all my bearings came from, so I'll look there.
I gather the inside diameter has to match the shaft (1/4") and then the outside is what you spin.
Correct. 1/4" is a little small but will probably work. Make an aluminum pot to press the clutch into and on the other end insert a steel shaft to hold in the drill. Be careful to get rotation correct before pressing in the bearing.
Bob---I posted a thread and drawings for a starter spud like the one I use in my variable speed drill to start my engines. It was in a post tiled "Gentlemen, start your engines" a few years ago. Now I can't find it. If anybody can find the link, please put it up for Bob.---Brian
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coulsea
Well-Known Member
This is what I use. to get the curved holes I drill the main hole (6mm) 6mm in from the end which will leave 3mm of metal between it and the end, then with a 6mm round file, file down from half a hole to the side of the first one and when it breaks in to the first one it will naturally take the path of least resistance and work its way in to the first hole.
I have your drawings and started to make one this afternoon.
What Coulsea does looks nice, but it isn't really necessary with these little engines. A straight slot works fine. All of the old cars that came with a crank for use when the battery went dead were like Coulsea's. That was so that if the car started when you were cranking it, it wouldn't wrap you up in the crank---it would self-eject. When I was in high school I had a model A Ford with one spot on the flywheel ring gear where the teeth were ripped off. If the engine stopped with that particular spot lined up with the starter, you would have to either push start it or use the crank.
OK, got these done, now to test them.
It took me a minute to figure out why your piston looked so odd ... 
Then I realized it wasn't a piston, but rather a starting spud - right? Looks good, with one comment - make sure the pin is not too snug in the slot; you want it to be able to disengage easily, even when your drill may be at a bit of an angle.
Then I realized it wasn't a piston, but rather a starting spud - right? Looks good, with one comment - make sure the pin is not too snug in the slot; you want it to be able to disengage easily, even when your drill may be at a bit of an angle.
It took me a minute to figure out why your piston looked so odd ...
Then I realized it wasn't a piston, but rather a starting spud - right? Looks good, with one comment - make sure the pin is not too snug in the slot; you want it to be able to disengage easily, even when your drill may be at a bit of an angle.
Yes, it's a spud. The slot is loose, that tool just falls out of it, I just have no experience with how loose it needs to be.
Based on your description, it should be fine!
