Team Build 8

[chucketn]

I'm bummed! No parts in the mail today... It's cold outside and in my shop... Just kidding! It is cold, but sunny and I know parts are coming! Can't wait!
Chuck

 

[rhitee93]

Brian Got your parts today ,Look great . Thanks Dale

Thanks for the heads up Dale! Chuck, your parts should get there soon. I am a little surprised they didn't arrive today. Hopefully tomorrow

 

[Path]

Got my parts from Brian ... man do they look fantastic ... beautiful finish. Thm:

Is this the finish that the tumbler gives? If so, about how long in the tub?


Thanks,

Pat H.

 

[joe d]

Chris

Just got your parts this morning. Looking good!

Joe

 

[chucketn]

I received Brian's parts today. Sweet! I thought my parts were small! Brian, you must have the patience of a Saint! Well done!

Chuck

 

[dalem9]

Chris What do you use in your tumbler . I have an old rock tumbler that I got at a grage sale .It may work also if I know what to put in it .Thanks Dale

 

[rhitee93]

Got my parts from Brian ... man do they look fantastic ... beautiful finish. Thm:

Is this the finish that the tumbler gives? If so, about how long in the tub?

Thanks,

Pat H.

It all depends. The linkages are all 304 Stainless Steel. They spent 24 hours with a ceramic media and water, and another 24 hours with corn cob media. The brass pieces and the small steel spacer just went into the corn cob media for about 12 hours. The linkage blocks, being carbon steel didn't spend much time in the ceramic/water bath, but spent a day or so in the corncob.

I should also add that this was done in an old drum style rock tumbler. I have a vibratory one I use for polishing cartridge brass, but I can't use water in it, so it doesn't get much use for deburring.

Small parts are tedious, but I didn't spend squat in material costs. Some of you guys have some $$$ wrapped up in your parts

 

[dreeves]

Brian, Great looking parts . I did not have much in material cost but the shipping got me good.

How did you cut the links?

Dave

 

[dalem9]

Thanks Brian Got it right this time Not much differant then any other mediaum . Thanks Dale

 

[rhitee93]

Brian, Great looking parts . I did not have much in material cost but the shipping got me good.

How did you cut the links?

Dave

Thanks Dave. I roughed out the links with a waterjet cuter. I left the holes undersized so that I could ream them afterwards.

Those thin links were a problem. I forgot how much I don't like drilling 304SS. I had about 8 of them snag on the reamer and get twisted around my finger. By the end I was using wood blocks to hold them in place, and only had 1 spare blank left

 

[rhitee93]

Thanks Brian Got it right this time Not much differant then any other mediaum . Thanks Dale

No problem I would like to know more about tumbling finishes but information seems to be hard to come by. I have some plastic pyramids that work well on some things.

 

[chucketn]

I have a drawing correction. While cutting my 3/4" 2-56 hex heads down to assemble the parts received so far, I referred to sheet #17 for the length of the beam bushing bolts. I followed the print and cut them to 1/4" per print. These bolts need to be 3/16".

Chuck

 

[chucketn]

I was going over the drawings for the umteenth time today and realized there is a couple of parts missing! There is no air/steam input connector, and no exhaust connector! Guess we get to design/make our own.
That brings up another question. Has anyone designed a standardized compressed air connection system for their model steam engines? Is there a standard, readily available fitting system that can be adapted for powering these engines? Like airbrush fittings? What do you use?
This will only be my 4th air powered steam engine and all the others use different fittings based on what I could find at the moment (not very organized!).

Chuck

 

[Path]

Looks like we are missing a part drawing.
I couldn't find anything that holds the Piston Rod to the Beam Links. On page 17 zone A2, "Cylinder Rod End Bushing " is shown that would make that connection, but can't find a drawing for it. The "Cross Head Link Bushing" (actually our item #33) (note that names are different on page 17 vs the rest of the pages) is what we need except shorter. I would suggest that each builder make their own. Same as #33 except instead the length of .808", it would have a length of .510" or more then face off the excess so that there is just a little overhang when assembling.

Comments?

Pat H

Chuck,

Yes, those parts have been left off so the builder could decided what was suited for his build.

Another issue:

Way back in late November (post #181) I mentioned a part that I couldn't find a drawing.

Maybe you could take a look and see if my conclusions are correct.

Thanks,

Pat H.

 

[chucketn]

For those that have soft or silver soldered brass bits before, what can I use for a pickle that I might find around the house? I made an intake piece and soldered a piece of brass tubing into it. I have wine makers citric acid powder, but it's got to be 23-25 years old.

Chuck

 

[dalem9]

Vinger Chuck If not that lemon juice.

 

[chucketn]

Thanks, Dale. Fortunately we buy Vinegar by the gallon. I'll try it.

Chuck

 

[joe d]

Hi Brian

Got your parts today. man o man they are small... glad I didn't have to
make them! Looking dam fine, Sir!

Joe

 

[chucketn]

Pat, I think the missing part you referred to is the same as the "Grounding Link Elbow Joint Bushing", Sheet 15, A4, which was in Brian's parts. I have fitted it to the beam, in the "Beam Parallel Links", and the "Grounding Links" hang from it.

Chuck

 

[dreeves]

I got some parts put on the engine and here it is.