Stuart 10v

[swarf]

My first project is going to be a Stuart 10v. After checking out Keith Appleton, TinkerJohn and Andrew Whale thought I'd give it a go.
No machining skills to speak of. Always wanted to do this and have finally started.
Here's a couple pics

 

[aka9950202]

Looks like a good start. Looking forward to seeing more pictures and a video of the engine running.

Cheers,
Andrew in Melbourne

 

[delalio]

Great Work. Slow and steady builds a good engine.

I completed one of these last year and only just got round to painting it.

I would make one part each evening after work in a community workshop. Some nights I was there 1-2h, others 6-7h until 2-3am.

I found it very satisfying seeing all the parts come together. I had very few skills when I started mine too. It's a great project to begin with.
Tip, work down to your final size slowly. I made a couple of parts too small, and the amount of stock in the kit isn't really supportive of many mistakes!!

Do you have the official book by Stuart on how to make it? I think they sell it for like ~£15. Well worth it. Replacement castings are more than that.

Keep us posted on your progress...

Oh and 2 more tips:
I broke one of my castings, but managed to pick up another from stuart from their stand at a show. (Not that there's any shows running currently!)
The part I broke was the A-Frame / Standard. Go really lightly when cleaning up the bottom of the legs, when machining it on the mandrel. I thought they were a lot more durable than they are. The broken piece went for a quick tour of the workshop if you know what I mean!

Take your time on the piston, the piston rod and the cylinder's bottom cap. These 3 need to be perfectly concentric else it will bind, and not run very well! Don't ask how I know that!

Here's a video of mine running after I rebuilt it after painting. It's great to see something you've made actually running by itself.


Enjoy the journey. If you're anything like me, you'll do a few detours on the way!

 

[Richard Hed]

My first project is going to be a Stuart 10v. After checking out Keith Appleton, TinkerJohn and Andrew Whale thought I'd give it a go.
No machining skills to speak of. Always wanted to do this and have finally started.
Here's a couple picsView attachment 120005View attachment 120006

I'm building this and another one from Stuart. Yours looks a LOT better than mine. I blame it on my tools (take no responsibility for my own incompetence, LOL). Really, however, I have to use a drill press, have no mill, and my lathe is an Enco 9X20. Am trying to get the company I am harvesting corn for to sell me their lathe which is sitting in the weather for 5 years. Apparently it workt well when it was retired. It was retired because it had no modern OSHA safety covers, etc.

But back to hyour build. So far so good. I have finished different parts, have the cylinder and piston assemblies finished (sort of) but they do not fit well so I am thimking I needs to remake the cylinder end with the piston rod hole. I thimk I got the hole off by a very tiny amount, this should be relatively easy to do but it would be easier to do with a better lathe. I am making ER-32, ER-40 and ER-50 collet chucks so I can do more accurate work quickly and without a lot of trouble like a four jaw. The three jaw, of course, is inherently inaccurate.

 

[packrat]

Quote " Am trying to get the company I am harvesting corn for to sell me their lathe which is sitting in the weather for 5 years."

What is the size of the lathe and make, did it get rusted being out side for 5 years.??

 

[comstock-friend]

What is the size of the lathe and make, did it get rusted being out side for 5 years.??

5 years in outside in Seattle... Hell yeah!

 

[Richard Hed]

Packrat,
yes, outside in weather, but this weather is Moses Lake, MUCH dryier than Seattle. The rust is minimal which one can judge somewhat how bad the ways are. It's really not bad, a bit of 2000 grit or maybe 1600 should remove most of what I can see. But I don't want to jump the gun--this "negociation" is taking forever--I just want a price which I can accept or reject.

The make is "American Tool Works" out of Cincinatti. It's length over all is 7-1/2 feets but the bed is (I forgot to actually measure the bed, as I was wondering if I could get it into my pickup truck -- I can't) about 5feet, maby 4-1/2--that range. I thot that maybe the electric motor was an add on from the steam days, that is, that maybe the pulleys had been removed and an electric engine added, but no, the struts and parts seem to be integral to the machine--even tho' I feel that it was built at that time between steam and fully electric which means the engine is not covered, it is placed where the pulleys would have been and it's obviously before their line of "Pacemakers" which are apparently legendary--tho' I had neveer heard of them before, which are completely covered and look very nice.

I found a 1929 model that lookt somewhat like it but was definitely not identical. Having trouble with finding the exact model. Should try to find that info on the lathe itself but when off work want to get a shower and some zzz's. Oh, the diameter size should be about 12" radius for turning, didn't measure that either, as it has more capacity than I should ever need.

Comstock, I don't really live in Seattle, I live in the dry part of the Soviet. I put "Seattle" on my little visible blurb so that peeps NOT from USA would have an idea where I exist as Seattle is a large, well known and relatively important city. I suppose they could now use on-line maps to find Moses Lake if they were interested.

 

[packrat]

Maybe you could put some Kroil on it as the negotiations go on..?

 

[Richard Hed]

Maybe you could put some Kroil on it as the negotiations go on..?

by "Kroil" I believe you mean rust resisting grease or something. Believe me, it's not going to rust any more in a month, it rarely even rains over here. If they haven't decided on a price by the time harvest is over in 2-3 weeks, I will probably just go with the Grizzly I have my eye on. I'm too old to fool around with negotiations oveer a boat anchor. There is too much work to do to get it in working order (maybe not really a lot but enough) and I'm one of the guys who want to USE the thing, not restore it. (Altho' I appreciate those peeps who DO want to restore them.) Are you one who likes to restore things? Since I had never heard of American Tool Works before, I would like to make it at least beautiful again.

 

[swarf]

I'm building this and another one from Stuart. Yours looks a LOT better than mine. I blame it on my tools (take no responsibility for my own incompetence, LOL). Really, however, I have to use a drill press, have no mill, and my lathe is an Enco 9X20. Am trying to get the company I am harvesting corn for to sell me their lathe which is sitting in the weather for 5 years. Apparently it workt well when it was retired. It was retired because it had no modern OSHA safety covers, etc.

But back to hyour build. So far so good. I have finished different parts, have the cylinder and piston assemblies finished (sort of) but they do not fit well so I am thimking I needs to remake the cylinder end with the piston rod hole. I thimk I got the hole off by a very tiny amount, this should be relatively easy to do but it would be easier to do with a better lathe. I am making ER-32, ER-40 and ER-50 collet chucks so I can do more accurate work quickly and without a lot of trouble like a four jaw. The three jaw, of course, is inherently inaccurate.

I have mediocre equipment but it does what I need it to do (mill/drill and 8x14 lathe all China/India).
Just take your time and enjoy the challenge and the reward that comes with the completion of each mini project. Then the ultimate when your project is complete and works.

 

[swarf]

Thanks all.

 

[glue-itcom]

40 years ago now that I saw a set of 10V castings in the old blistering packaging in a shop display case, Built most of the engine on an Emco Unimat 3, only issue was I had to split the eccentric strap and rod as I couldn't swing it...

The engine runs like a dream even on an air pump from a car seat....so about 10-15psi

plus I still have the Unimat 3 - a beautiful lathe that is now only made as a poor copy

 

[gunner312]

Packrat,
yes, outside in weather, but this weather is Moses Lake, MUCH dryier than Seattle. The rust is minimal which one can judge somewhat how bad the ways are. It's really not bad, a bit of 2000 grit or maybe 1600 should remove most of what I can see. But I don't want to jump the gun--this "negociation" is taking forever--I just want a price which I can accept or reject.

The make is "American Tool Works" out of Cincinatti. It's length over all is 7-1/2 feets but the bed is (I forgot to actually measure the bed, as I was wondering if I could get it into my pickup truck -- I can't) about 5feet, maby 4-1/2--that range. I thot that maybe the electric motor was an add on from the steam days, that is, that maybe the pulleys had been removed and an electric engine added, but no, the struts and parts seem to be integral to the machine--even tho' I feel that it was built at that time between steam and fully electric which means the engine is not covered, it is placed where the pulleys would have been and it's obviously before their line of "Pacemakers" which are apparently legendary--tho' I had neveer heard of them before, which are completely covered and look very nice.

I found a 1929 model that lookt somewhat like it but was definitely not identical. Having trouble with finding the exact model. Should try to find that info on the lathe itself but when off work want to get a shower and some zzz's. Oh, the diameter size should be about 12" radius for turning, didn't measure that either, as it has more capacity than I should ever need.

Comstock, I don't really live in Seattle, I live in the dry part of the Soviet. I put "Seattle" on my little visible blurb so that peeps NOT from USA would have an idea where I exist as Seattle is a large, well known and relatively important city. I suppose they could now use on-line maps to find Moses Lake if they were interested.

In my 30 + years of being a Machinist I have run "American Lathe Co" Machines they were all very heavy duty machines and I wouldn't mind running one now. As far as them being worn out, I remember a lathe I ran that was a 20" X 24' old Cincinnati tray top that the ways were so worn at the headstock end the the tool would drop .075 in the last 14 or so inches. we/I managed to hold + - .001 tolerance with the old girl. It just takes learning the machine.

 

[packrat]

Quote "by "Kroil" I believe you mean rust resisting grease or something"

http://www.kanolabs.com/

 

[fcheslop]

Check the pcd for the trunk guide bolts. Something in my mind about them coming close to the edge
Nearly 30 years ago since I built two D10s for a tug so could be wrong
cheers

 

[anton.vanstaden2]

My first project is going to be a Stuart 10v. After checking out Keith Appleton, TinkerJohn and Andrew Whale thought I'd give it a go.
No machining skills to speak of. Always wanted to do this and have finally started.
Here's a couple picsView attachment 120005View attachment 120006

Hi it looks very good. I ordered my castings for Stuart last week. I bought the V10 Castings, the S50 and the Stuart Progress. I reckoned I would start with the Progress, it looks a bit easier than the V10, Mr Pete222 did a series on you tube in 2017. I have a almost full set BA Taps and Dies, but Andy for Stuart said that I will also need ME and BSB taps and dies. I did not order them now. Can I substitute it with some other - maybe Metric, I am from South Africa, so I don't have easy access to even Imperial Taps and dies, not to speak of ME and BSB. Good luck with your build and keep posting pics.

 

[packrat]

Can you find US size taps and dies in South Africa ?
If you want to change BA threads to U.S sizes
here is a size caparison chart, if you wanted to use U.S Taps and dies and US bolts and nuts for odd sizes, like B.S.F and M.E threads.

 

[Richard Hed]

Can you find US size taps and dies in South Africa ?
If you want to change BA threads to U.S sizes
here is a size caparison chart, if you wanted to use U.S Taps and dies and US bolts and nuts for odd sizes, like B.S.F and M.E threads.

As for myself only, I refuse to use the BA nuts and bolts unless they are EXACT copies of some American thread. It isn't that I am prejudiced, it's because I will not buy the taps and dies--too expensive. Also, I don't care whether or not my toys I build are exact copies of what ever. I use hex bolts whenever they will fit because I likes them.

 

[wce4]

Can you find US size taps and dies in South Africa ?
If you want to change BA threads to U.S sizes
here is a size caparison chart, if you wanted to use U.S Taps and dies and US bolts and nuts for odd sizes, like B.S.F and M.E threads.

Thank you for your caparison chart jpg file. I have copy it to a notepad file (.txt ext.) and attach a copy here for others to save and add to if they so desire.

 

[Shelton]

Have you tried saving it to your computer then trying to print?