South Bend 8K photos

[gambit_mb]

I am using the 10W motor oil based on the charts I found on this page at engineeringtoolbox.com

There are charts comparing all types of oils. I am just curious if the equivalents have different additives that could cause premature wear of the bearings. I thought I had seen something somewhere about sulfur content in motor oils being high, but can't remember if that was a bad thing. And also most motor oils contain detergent. Don't know if this causes any bad effects either.

 

[mikbul]

Thanks for the info on preload. I had no idea. I probably would have prematurely worn out my bearings the way i did it. I tightened until it was very tight but the spindle could still be turned by hand.

Is that info in the manual because I didn't see it. Or did you get that from Grizzly tech support?


Pat

It's not in the manual, they sent it to me. I just talked to tech support and you should report what you found and they can e-mail you a copy of the pre-load instructions, they are for a grizzly machine but the procedure is the same. He also recommended the hydraulic fluid over the motor oil. Mobil DTE Light, hyguard low viscosity, or an equivalent to the hyguard.

There should be almost no preload on those bearings because when they heat up there's no place to expand to. I forgot to mention you set the preload after warming up the spindle for twenty minutes, the lit. they sent me said at high speed to bring it to normal working temp. This is for an already broken in spindle so ignore that, I would run it at 0 preload until it warms up then set preload then go about breakin. If it gets too hot back off a little on the preload.

 

[mikbul]

I am using the 10W motor oil based on the charts I found on this page at engineeringtoolbox.com

There are charts comparing all types of oils. I am just curious if the equivalents have different additives that could cause premature wear of the bearings. I thought I had seen something somewhere about sulfur content in motor oils being high, but can't remember if that was a bad thing. And also most motor oils contain detergent. Don't know if this causes any bad effects either.

The hydraulic fluid will actually handle the loads better than the 10w motor oil. He also said you and I are the only two cases of grease in the spindle bearings reported?

 

[barnesrickw]

When I ran heavy duty gear boxes for sludge tank mixers, etc we sometimes used a HP or high pressure oil. It had additives like zinc. Not sure this is the right application, but I'm sure they make an oil for any application. The only problem is finding them in quantities under 5 gal.


Sent from my iPad using Model Engines

 

[barnesrickw]

Thanks for the link by the way.


Sent from my iPad using Model Engines

 

[gambit_mb]

The hydraulic fluid will actually handle the loads better than the 10w motor oil. He also said you and I are the only two cases of grease in the spindle bearings reported?

That is probably because nobody else has bothered to look. Once they screw their spindles, I'm sure SB - Griz will find out the same thing we did.

I am thankful for this thread Mikbul. You saved me the hassle of ruining my spindle.

 

[mikbul]

That is probably because nobody else has bothered to look. Once they screw their spindles, I'm sure SB - Griz will find out the same thing we did.

I am thankful for this thread Mikbul. You saved me the hassle of ruining my spindle.

Thank you,
I started this whole thing out because there was no real info out there and this is the only way to find out. Get the people who buy them to take a few minutes to look like yourself. Thanks again and keep us informed, but most of all watch that little one!
Mike

 

[Swifty]

I would definitely not use motor oil because of the detergent in it, hydraulic oil is the way to go.

Paul.

 

[mikbul]

I have a theory, and that's all it is. The other spindle failures could have been grease caused but the longer you run it and the more you oil it the more watered down the grease gets, but the damage is already done. When they take it apart it doesn't look like grease, just thick oil. Look at these two photos, one on the bench is definitely grease with an oil coating. The one on the spindle is much more watered down. One day I wondered were the oil would go if you over oiled it and black goo ran down from the swarf guard. So I thinned the grease out on the chuck side but the damage was already done.

 

[mikbul]

If you're wondering about the swarf guard SB calls it a gasket. It's the black ring that press fits behind the spindle nose. Here's some photos of it and the notch where the oil drops down into the rollers.

 

[gambit_mb]

I finally got to breaking in my spindle bearings and when I finished, the bearings were no warmer than a 5 minute old cup of coffee. So I would assume the pre-load is perfect. Thanks for the pre-load info Mikbul.

I seem to have a problem with the carriage rack and gear meshing. It seems like the carriage sticks in 5-6 places. I loosed the bolt at the chuck side of the front plate on the carriage and now it runs smooth. Did you have a similar problem Mikbul? I am wondering if there is something that can be adjusted or if I should just shim the plate and run like that.

Congrats. I see your post on CNC Zone found another owner. I found the post had some good info. I guess the guys at SB - Griz have short memories. He also reported greese in his bearings back in 2012. Not surprised! He must of been pissed after probably paying full price at $3300.


Pat.

 

[mikbul]

I finally got to breaking in my spindle bearings and when I finished, the bearings were no warmer than a 5 minute old cup of coffee. So I would assume the pre-load is perfect. Thanks for the pre-load info Mikbul.

I seem to have a problem with the carriage rack and gear meshing. It seems like the carriage sticks in 5-6 places. I loosed the bolt at the chuck side of the front plate on the carriage and now it runs smooth. Did you have a similar problem Mikbul? I am wondering if there is something that can be adjusted or if I should just shim the plate and run like that.




I would pull the rack and see if there's anything like paint keeping it from seating up under the ways. I don't think you can shim the apron because of the half nut alignment, though a very thin shim may not hurt. Relooking at the website photos the rack has alignment pins so that shouldn't be the problem. I would still pull it and carefully set it upside down on the ways to see if it is straight.
Looking at the parts blow up I believe the half nut will compensate on it's own for a thin shim.

I deleted that list on CNC Zone because I have no way of confirming it and that's not fair to Grizzly. I just want to help out new owners but they need to report warranty issues and leave the old warranty issues to Grizzly.

That's great news about the spindle break in! I'm hoping my second time around goes ok.

 

[mikbul]

I measured the bearing seats today and came up with 1.7706" on both. Tried to measure the bearing ID but I don't have an inside mic or a bore gauge large enough. I believe .0005" per inch for an interference fit is what I remember.
By bearing # this 45mm ID or 1.7717", something doesn't add up but what has lately?

 

[mikbul]

Well good news today one of the heads of Grizzly tech support personally called me to tell me my spindle came in air mail, six weeks sooner than the standard shipment!
Got to thank tech support for the special order and air mail.
BTW, found some 32009XP5 bearings I think I'll upgrade to from *** from Germany, There listed on find a ball bearing.
Here's a little copy of the different grades etc. Excuse the school house drawing.

 

[mikbul]

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[mikbul]

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[gambit_mb]

Oh yea, well eggewugeyguygegtfgvuyhdggyyugdeyguygfytgyuegdgyegfyuegfyegfyyegyegfeygfyegfygfygeygfyuegfyegf

It looks as if the time that has been taken away from you to be using your lathe has started to get to you. Ha!Ha!Ha!

I am glad to see that you will now have your new spindle really soon. It has been nearly 2 months already since you have been down, hasn't it?

By the way, what is the cost on the *** bearings?

 

[mikbul]

It looks as if the time that has been taken away from you to be using your lathe has started to get to you. Ha!Ha!Ha!

I am glad to see that you will now have your new spindle really soon. It has been nearly 2 months already since you have been down, hasn't it?

By the way, what is the cost on the *** bearings?

Yea I had a crazy moment last night! Those *** bearings are $82.00 and are supposed to be made in Germany Or Austria by ***. I just ordered them and asked them to confirm country of manufacture when they pull them off the shelf. I'll let you know.
BTW how's the new mill and lathe?

 

[gambit_mb]

Yea I had a crazy moment last night! Those *** bearings are $82.00 and are supposed to be made in Germany Or Austria by ***. I just ordered them and asked them to confirm country of manufacture when they pull them off the shelf. I'll let you know.
BTW how's the new mill and lathe?

I haven't been able to use them yet. I blew my budget on the equipment so I have been collecting my pennies for some tooling. I am going to start with the lathe and once I get enough tooling for it I will start with the mill. I am getting so damn anxious to make some chips.

The price of $82, is that a piece or a pair?

 

[mikbul]

I haven't been able to use them yet. I blew my budget on the equipment so I have been collecting my pennies for some tooling. I am going to start with the lathe and once I get enough tooling for it I will start with the mill. I am getting so damn anxious to make some chips.

The price of $82, is that a piece or a pair?[/quote]

That's $82 apiece, they should be good and he has 72 of them. I've been visiting an ex GE machinist a few times and got some nice deals on good tools. He wanted me to buy all his boring bars, 75 of them! They're all sharp or been sharpened by the GE tool room. I bought a third for 20 bucks or something. He has a large coffee can full of end mills in their sleeves. I have thought about buying it for if I get a mill. If not sell them. Thing is these are older with the better steel. I'll shoot a couple pictures of some recent purchases. The Brown & Sharpe Mic is a beauty and swiss made, I don't want to tell you the price you'll cry!
He still has a bunch of B&S & Tesa inside mics and other stuff. The middle and left mics are both B&S Swiss made.