South Bend 8K photos

[gambit_mb]

Hi Mikbul.

I just wanted to say thank you for documenting your experience with the South Bend 8K. It was the deciding factor for me to purchase one also.

Sorry to hear about the bearing problems you are experiencing now. I will sure be checking mine for the grease once it arrives this week.

Good luck and hope your replacement spindle gets a rush delivery so you can start making chips again.

 

[mikbul]

I talked to tech support again today and there has been no other grease in bearing issues, he did say they take some off the truck and lube them up break them in and inspect them occasionally.
Also my spindle will be arriving on the 22nd which gives me plenty of time to make up the sleeve I need to press the chuck side bearing onto it's seat and finish the spanner I've made up for the spindle lock collar. I'll be calling online metals as soon as I measure up the spindle and bearing for the sleeve size. I like making special tools, though it would be easier with a lathe.

 

[mikbul]

Hi Mikbul.

I just wanted to say thank you for documenting your experience with the South Bend 8K. It was the deciding factor for me to purchase one also.

Sorry to hear about the bearing problems you are experiencing now. I will sure be checking mine for the grease once it arrives this week.

Good luck and hope your replacement spindle gets a rush delivery so you can start making chips again.

Congrats on the new lathe, you're Gonna love it! Yes please do check the bearing and let me know, I don't believe you will find anything but oil in there. And thank you, you've made my day!

BTW, if you don't mind I am making a list of serial #'s and MFG. dates just for curiosity's sake and would appreciate yours and anybody else who would like to participate.
Mine is 1111 Mfg. 11-2011. Picked up at Muncy Pa. Warehouse.

 

[gambit_mb]

Once I get here, I will post the information.

 

[gambit_mb]

Just got the lathe home and in the basement tonight. I tell ya, I wish I was 15 years younger. 268 lbs would of been quite easy back then when I was doing a lot of physical work. The lathe is a lot heavier than I thought it would be.

The lathe instantly covered itself in frost once in the house so I tried to clean it all of but I won't be starting it up for a while till the electronics dry out. Have to see how to get to the electronics and put a fan on.

So my serial# is 1130 mfg date is 11/2011. Obviously, they still aren't selling a lot at the big discount. They are starting to move though.

 

[mikbul]

Just got the lathe home and in the basement tonight. I tell ya, I wish I was 15 years younger. 268 lbs would of been quite easy back then when I was doing a lot of physical work. The lathe is a lot heavier than I thought it would be.

The lathe instantly covered itself in frost once in the house so I tried to clean it all of but I won't be starting it up for a while till the electronics dry out. Have to see how to get to the electronics and put a fan on.

So my serial# is 1130 mfg date is 11/2011. Obviously, they still aren't selling a lot at the big discount. They are starting to move though.

There's a fan in the electronics, but good idea, four screw on the back of the electronics tower will get you access. It is a heavy little lathe, I needed a come along to get it up on my bench. I don't think they are selling them sequentially by serial# but time will tell. Thanks again for the info, do you know which location it shipped from?

BTW any one can send me their S/N through private post.

1111 11-2011 Muncy Pa. Home is upstate NY
1130 11-2011 Muncy Pa. Home is Manitoba, Canada

 

[mygrizzly1022]

Gambit-MB

PM sent

 

[gambit_mb]

There's a fan in the electronics, but good idea, four screw on the back of the electronics tower will get you access. It is a heavy little lathe, I needed a come along to get it up on my bench. I don't think they are selling them sequentially by serial# but time will tell. Thanks again for the info, do you know which location it shipped from?

BTW any one can send me their S/N through private post.

1111 11-2011 Muncy Pa. Home is upstate NY
1130 11-2011 ...............Home is Manitoba, Canada

Mine also came from Muncy.

 

[Wizard69]

So my serial# is 1130 mfg date is 11/2011. Obviously, they still aren't selling a lot at the big discount. They are starting to move though.

That isn't a good sign really, it is the second month of 2014 now. I suspect this model will not be around long, holding stock for over two years is hard in a business.

It isn't surprising that the lathe is having sales issues as people don't want to pay for quality anymore. It only took a few moments, in Muncy, to see that this is a far nicer lathe than my old 9x20. Kinda Jealous even if I've had that 9x20 for a few years now.



Sent from my iPad using Model Engines

 

[mikbul]

Look at the German made Wabeco D6000. Same motor, drive train, crosslide, compound, but no 3v way bed, digital tach, and way more expensive. Bigger swing (10.6") and longer bed though. When I said they could have made a bigger lathe with this motor turns out there is. $5-7,000.00 though. In the manual they have optional CNC motors that will bolt right on the 8K. I bet 95% of the drive train and electronics will fit the 8K.

 

[gambit_mb]

Mikbul,

Just wondering if there has been any progress on the adapter for the spindle taper. And how much is it costing you to get the work done? If the results are good I might think about getting one myself. Not sure I really need it though.

 

[mikbul]

Mikbul,

Just wondering if there has been any progress on the adapter for the spindle taper. And how much is it costing you to get the work done? If the results are good I might think about getting one myself. Not sure I really need it though.

I just received it in the mail Saturday. Seems to fit the spindle really well, of course I have a new spindle on the way. If you don't have an expensive test bar you don't really need it. If you are going to turn between centers with a lathe dog you won't need it. You can also buy an MT3 center with a soft tip and put you're compound at 60 degrees and get it perfect. Of course you would have to make a mark on the spindle and the center so it goes on exactly the same way each time you use it. Check you're spindle adapter first.
Put the center in your spindle, make sure it's seated well by cleaning the spindle bore and center, then stick you're dial indicator on it. I put the cart before the horse. Dial indicate you're spindle bore first, on mine with a 030" test indicator the needle barely moved, and that could have been a minute scratch. Now test your center.

Without a test bar it would be hard to test you're adapter. I put my adapter on the test bar, stuck it between centers and turned the test bar by hand with the indicator on it.

 

[mikbul]

Mikbul,

Just wondering if there has been any progress on the adapter for the spindle taper. And how much is it costing you to get the work done? If the results are good I might think about getting one myself. Not sure I really need it though.

Make sure you clean the chuck well. I had to get mine submerged in clear mineral spirits and keep rotating the scroll with the key, brought the repeatability down from .001-.005" to .001" every time.

 

[gambit_mb]

Mikbul,

So I had a chance to check my spindle bearings for grease. There is grease is them. The grease is so thin though, almost like a jelled 80 weight oil.

What do you think I should do? I was thinking running some WD-40 in them to clean the grease off so when I oil them, the oil will get to the metal. And should I do this before the bearing break-in?

Did any of your change gear belts show wear from tracking to one side? My 120 XL belt is a little worn on one side from tracking. I haven't started it up yet so must of been from testing


Pat

 

[mikbul]

Mikbul,

So I had a chance to check my spindle bearings for grease. There is grease is them. The grease is so thin though, almost like a jelled 80 weight oil.

What do you think I should do? I was thinking running some WD-40 in them to clean the grease off so when I oil them, the oil will get to the metal. And should I do this before the bearing break-in?

Did any of your change gear belts show wear from tracking to one side? My 120 XL belt is a little worn on one side from tracking. I haven't started it up yet so must of been from testing


Pat

Don't do the spindle breakin yet. My headstock got hot with the grease and I think that was the initial damage. They have you run it for 10 minutes each direction at 2300 rpm after all the other break in steps. They do test them at the factory. Where you able to loosen the chuck side bearing cover? If it were me I'd disconnect the belt, flush them then oil them good, until it runs out the spindle on both ends. spin it by hand for a bit , drain that oil then re-oil and run it slow for awhile. When you break in the spindle it shouldn't get hot. It will get warm, maybe 20 deg. over ambient. Just get all the grease out then all the WD.
I was sure you'd have a clean bearing, this is one I really hate to be wrong on. At least you caught it before any damage was done.
BTW take a couple photos before you clean the bearings.

 

[mikbul]

BTW I ground down an allen wrench to fit behind the spindle to loosen the three screws on the flange. You just need to loosen that cover, if you take the screws out mark the top, there's a notch that let's the oil down to the bearing so make sure it goes on the same way. The other side can't go on wrong.
Mike

 

[mikbul]

Well I haven't heard from Gambit in over 24 hours so that can't be good.
Unless I hear different from South Bend, expect to have to flush your spindle bearings out if you buy an 8K.

 

[gambit_mb]

So I removed the spindle today and there seems to be no damage done. I clean the grease out of the bearings today with WD-40. After that I assembled the spindle and bearings and pumped some oil in to the bearings and turned by hand until the oil started puddling under the lathe. Everything is back together now and is ready for the spindle break-in.

I did't have any iso 32 oil for the spindle bearings so I checked online for a motor oil equivalent. A 10W motor oil is what they say and for the iso 68 = 20W motor oil. If there is a problem using motor oil on the spindle bearings, please let me know before I start breaking in the spindle please.

I took pictures of the bearings but haven't uploaded them to the 'puter yet. Will do when I get a chance. It was my daughters 3rd b-day today and had alot of running around to do. I think I will finish cleaning up the lathe with mineral spirits tonight and get my butt to bed.


Pat

 

[mikbul]

So I removed the spindle today and there seems to be no damage done. I clean the grease out of the bearings today with WD-40. After that I assembled the spindle and bearings and pumped some oil in to the bearings and turned by hand until the oil started puddling under the lathe. Everything is back together now and is ready for the spindle break-in.

I did't have any iso 32 oil for the spindle bearings so I checked online for a motor oil equivalent. A 10W motor oil is what they say and for the iso 68 = 20W motor oil. If there is a problem using motor oil on the spindle bearings, please let me know before I start breaking in the spindle please.

I took pictures of the bearings but haven't uploaded them to the 'puter yet. Will do when I get a chance. It was my daughters 3rd b-day today and had alot of running around to do. I think I will finish cleaning up the lathe with mineral spirits tonight and get my butt to bed.

Congrats on her 3rd birthday! John Deere Hyguard low viscosity is ISO 32 if you have a dealer nearby. I'm not sure about the 10w motor oil. ISO 32 is basically hydraulic fluid. Let me see what I can find out about the 10w motor oil.
Did you mark the spindle locking collar to get the same preload? The procedure for preload adjustment is loosen up the spindle until you feel movement by hand. Set your dial indicator on the face of the spindle and depress it .100". tighten the locking collar until the indicator needle stops moving. At that point you have no play and no preload. Tighten the collar an additional 1/16". If you run it and it gets hot back it off a hair. Even to 0 preload for breakin if it gets too hot ten add a little back in after.

 

[gambit_mb]

Thanks for the info on preload. I had no idea. I probably would have prematurely worn out my bearings the way i did it. I tightened until it was very tight but the spindle could still be turned by hand.

Is that info in the manual because I didn't see it. Or did you get that from Grizzly tech support?


Pat